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This was posted on a another thread (thanks sign216 and footgoose!), but deserves a place here. Luciano Marabese's original monoposto V11 Sport still with 5 speed gearbox:

Thanks, Joe! My, but that image of the Marabese Designs prototype V11 Sport ought to be on the Luciano Marabese thread . . .

Seems your V11 is not charging. You can begin by making sure you have High Current Relays: Make sure the regulator case is grounded to the engine, and the main ground at the right rear of the gearbox is clean and tight. Tighten clean, "treat" battery terminals. Caig DeOxit is electrical liquid magic! If still no charge (check your voltage while running at idle at at "some rpm"), expect something like 14.2 volts, no less than 13.8v. No charging? Inspect the two yellow wires that exit the stator under the "alternator cover" or consider replacing the regulator.

You bought a vintage Yugo?

I feel like the most recent replacement reardrive is a solid piece and cleaning up nicely. It has almost 100,000 miles less than my original. It appears the bit of radial play in my original reardrive was not a contributor to the wheel bearing failures. Still, I have no closure on why those SKF wheel bearings played up. I am having quite a time studying spacers and rear axles. Puzzling!

"Glass mandrels!"

I love it! I love the harmony of the intake sound with the exhaust. So happy with "balancing" the intakes (they were so oddly shaped and asymmetrical). No doubt, when I first did this, over three years ago, the difference in running quality was palpable. Since then, I see that Meinolf has also belled his intakes, so I feel validated! The work PhilA did was compelling and his bell mouths were much larger than mine. I just ran out of time (and beer) to get them that large . . .

Ah. So, on earlier wiring that relies on the relay, the outboard spade connector is hot and on later V11, that connector is switched through the ignition switch?

I was pretty sure the 2001 Rosso Mandello still has the early start wiring through the front two relays. William851, take the "Livin' Easy Test" for your Relay#1. And score those High Current OMRON for a full house of Best Relays.

Best Relay The position #1 5-blade relay is a good place for a bona fide High Current Relay. But recommended for all five positions... on a Rosso Mandello, especially #2 (and #5).

Must be supremely nimble and comfortable!

How much is acceptable? When the Sport started *clacking and *clicking and *popping in the mountains, the radial play on the pinion gave concern. The "green" 50,000 mile reardrive has about 0.012" and the original 111,000 miler feels like more, but the best measure I get is ~0.014". The two replacements (8,700 miles and 14,000 miles) have no palpable radial play. All the popping noises still appear to be from played-up (new) wheel bearings. Still working on a solution for that . . . Stacked tolerances?

Yeah, hoping the internal spacer (coming from Italy) is the correct 113mm. Otherwise, I will shim and hope the next new bearings hold up . . .

My thanks to r3datom for helping me out. Sure appreciate the level of care sharing these parts with the community.

Still waiting on new bearings (Koyo C3) and new spacers (from Italy). Radial play in the reardrive pinion has been suspect, so when the rabbit hole opened up I , of course, dove in . . . I asked the other inmates on the ward if this was a form of insanity and they all assured me: I ain't broke, "jus' badly twisted."

Good things to find! Shaft can be aligned by removing the reardrive, only (axle and the torque arm bolt). (Torque arm/reaction rod is hanging mighty low. Are the rubber bushes okay?) Is that RedFrame, and her "stilettos", > Candy Apple Red < . . . ?

Yeah, bud . . . twelve year old tires . . .

Look at the post in that battery conditioning thread. There are some important steps to take charging an Odyssey, which are often delivered at 50% state of charge (that's like 12.5 volts). "Trickle" charger won't cut it. Use a minimum of 6 amps until the battery reaches 14.7 v (not over 15.0v). Sounds like you would want to invest in a quality digital meter that will read accurately to 0.01v. So, otherwise, you very likely have a series of "contributors" to your issue. In the short space of four hours, you have plenty of homework already!

Fluid choice is fine. Check the date code on the tires. It is 4 numerals molded in after "DOT" = week/month of production. Ten year old tires? I would absolutely NOT trust them . . .

Here's a post by Scud in his thread "Brand-new Scura" : https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18805-brand-new-scura/&do=findComment&comment=214405

A digital reading of 12.84v is 100%, 12.0 would be pretty much ded, mon. Do your lights come on? The horn blows?

Put a voltmeter on the battery without the key on . . . What make relays are in it now? But, yes, a full set of High Current Omron is in order. (Thanks on the pics. Hosted on imgzeit.)

View from further out:

Under the seat on the right toward the back. Second box from the front for "Lights", but also for many other functions:

Yessir . . . stand by . . .