docc

That is a fine collection of "Rusty Star-Pickets " . . .

What does it have for exhaust crossover and canisters?

A man with his priorities in order.

South'n SpineRaid Special!

More progress!!

Progress! Is that motor held up by anything but the tension on the two front subframe bolts? I'd feel better with a platform jack under the sump . . .

Color preference? Do you also need the mounting bands and nuts/washers/rubber isolators?

This took some doing, but I found this pic of @guzzler's GreenQueen . . .

Delivered today, seven days from the order placed last Friday after business hours.

V11 6 speed gearbox . . . From Pete Roper's post, above, with the dimensioned images of the special sockets: The largest one is for the clutch boss nut, the intermediate one is I think the driven shaft nut and the two smaller, three gear shafts use the smallest one.

Replies/posts combined with those from another thread to create this topic:

These are the types of retaining nuts that require the special tools:

Right, so, about 13 or 14 stone. In proper units. Back in the day, rumor had that the wiry, Italian test riders weighed just that. Yet, I also know an industry insider that told me the manufacturers set bikes up soft for "showroom feel." Except Ducati. The only way to assess your spring rate applicability is to check your "sags." Sags too far? Spring's too soft. Generally speaking (very generally), 35% of the suspension travel is soft (some riders like it that comfy), while 25% sag is considered "sporty." 30% is a common compromise.

Firmer. Also firmer on the shock spring. I have all of those details, but not where I am this weekend. Traxxion Dynamics spec'd the springs and preload spacer length for my weight and "riding style." It came out perfectly. FWIW, I'm about 185-195 pounds in full gear, ride on the sporty side and wanted a 30mm rider sag, about 30%. (My target sag for the rear was 25%).

I also discovered that AMA requires you to declare a destination before they will dispatch the recovery operator.

I had owned my V11 Sport sixteen (16!) years before the styling was revealed to me in an interview with the designer, Luciano Marabese, referencing the Gambalunghino as the design reference. This brought the whole design together for me after being frustrated looking for (absent) V7 Sport cues which period journalists, erroneously, reported the V11 Sport was an homage to.

Agreed, that #10 "clamping part" got over-tightened, and deformed. It is the point of failure. Perhaps, the approximation points of the jaw could be relieved (filed) to restore the clamping function? And, again, introducing a replacement bolt that extends its threads, by two threads, beyond the "new" lock nut . . .

Why not relieve the lost gap in the claw clamp? Or replace the "claw clamp?"

Darwin wasn't wrong, but we (as a species) have a lot of work-arounds (for the time being).

Yes, indeed the more accurate cSt measure varies dramatically with the "weights" of common fork oils. I am extremely pleased with my suspension set-up (YMMV). Yes, my target cSt is about 19.x while the typical "7wt" pushes into the 30s. The 19.x gives me much more compliance and responsiveness from these forks. Again, I changed my springs, raised the forks in the triple trees 5mm, adjusted my tire pressures 35psi front/ 40psi rear (with selected tires/sizes for my rim widths), and changed the rear shock/spring rate/preload.

In 136,666 miles/ 220.000 km, my Sport has needed four or five roadside assists. All of the other issues, I have solved with field expedience. A failed regulator caused me to phone my family to bring the neighbor's trailer to gather us up. The early Sport's "battery warning light" alerted me to the issue and got me halfway back home for the rescue effort. One other time, the "battery light" came on and my battery positive had loosened and blew the charging fuse: close to home, young son came and jumped me off from his Jeep. Two of my roadside tow assists were related to failed driveshaft yokes. First the rear, then (later) the front. The issues leading to these failures are documented here, elsewhere. Don't cross thread or otherwise screw up those driveshaft pinch bolts! The tow from 310 miles away from home was attributed to rear wheel bearing failure *complicated* by "stacked tolerances" from a too-short rear wheel bearing spacer, various wear changes, the history of driveshaft failures, history of collision damage, and substandard wheel bearings.

I learned (from this forum), early on, that lighter oil performs better in our forks, so I chose 5 "wt." Then, I learned (from this forum) that 5 "weight" can vary widely between manufacturers and even between one manufacturer's different products. After taking in Peter Verdone's discourse, and published tables, I chose BelRay 5W High Performance fork oil based upon its rating in centiStokes. This measure is vastly more accurate than "weight." http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/images/content/motorcycle/PVD-ISO-Viscosity-Data.gif Perhaps, most important (and biggest gain) with forks is to be certain your springs and preload reflect your rider weight and riding style. Factory springs are notoriously soft. Springs are also fairly inexpensive and super-easy to change during the oil service. I used Traxxion Dynamics to spec my springs and preload spacers and they are spot-on.

Here in America, young wildmen can go to unlimited performance fairly quickly. Some say it is a Darwinian strategy to keep said wildmen out of the gene pool. Somehow, I slipped through the cracks.