docc

Why not relieve the lost gap in the claw clamp? Or replace the "claw clamp?"

Darwin wasn't wrong, but we (as a species) have a lot of work-arounds (for the time being).

Yes, indeed the more accurate cSt measure varies dramatically with the "weights" of common fork oils. I am extremely pleased with my suspension set-up (YMMV). Yes, my target cSt is about 19.x while the typical "7wt" pushes into the 30s. The 19.x gives me much more compliance and responsiveness from these forks. Again, I changed my springs, raised the forks in the triple trees 5mm, adjusted my tire pressures 35psi front/ 40psi rear (with selected tires/sizes for my rim widths), and changed the rear shock/spring rate/preload.

In 136,666 miles/ 220.000 km, my Sport has needed four or five roadside assists. All of the other issues, I have solved with field expedience. A failed regulator caused me to phone my family to bring the neighbor's trailer to gather us up. The early Sport's "battery warning light" alerted me to the issue and got me halfway back home for the rescue effort. One other time, the "battery light" came on and my battery positive had loosened and blew the charging fuse: close to home, young son came and jumped me off from his Jeep. Two of my roadside tow assists were related to failed driveshaft yokes. First the rear, then (later) the front. The issues leading to these failures are documented here, elsewhere. Don't cross thread or otherwise screw up those driveshaft pinch bolts! The tow from 310 miles away from home was attributed to rear wheel bearing failure *complicated* by "stacked tolerances" from a too-short rear wheel bearing spacer, various wear changes, the history of driveshaft failures, history of collision damage, and substandard wheel bearings.

I learned (from this forum), early on, that lighter oil performs better in our forks, so I chose 5 "wt." Then, I learned (from this forum) that 5 "weight" can vary widely between manufacturers and even between one manufacturer's different products. After taking in Peter Verdone's discourse, and published tables, I chose BelRay 5W High Performance fork oil based upon its rating in centiStokes. This measure is vastly more accurate than "weight." http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/images/content/motorcycle/PVD-ISO-Viscosity-Data.gif Perhaps, most important (and biggest gain) with forks is to be certain your springs and preload reflect your rider weight and riding style. Factory springs are notoriously soft. Springs are also fairly inexpensive and super-easy to change during the oil service. I used Traxxion Dynamics to spec my springs and preload spacers and they are spot-on.

Here in America, young wildmen can go to unlimited performance fairly quickly. Some say it is a Darwinian strategy to keep said wildmen out of the gene pool. Somehow, I slipped through the cracks.

The AMA has come through for me twice, and couldn't get to me a third time. The first overage was maybe $70. The second tow was 310 miles and the overage was $700. Yet, the advantage was: I called for assistance late on a Saturday evening in a relatively small town in North Carolina. The recovery operator had me loaded by sunset and was determined to get me home (at 3 am). I gave him a good tip. Ah, of course: the bass player. I can hear the keyboardist tell the lead guitar player, "If the bloke is never seen or heard from again, what bass I can't do with my left hand, you can do with your thumb." Cannon fodder!

Welcome @Jaide! This is not only the best place in the world for the care and feeding a a V11 Spine Frame, but also the Dutchmen are particularly knowledgeable and courteous !

Ah, yes, the two under tank "nipples." One is an "overflow" drain and the other a tank vapor vent. Many have joined them, with no in-line valve, to vent/drain below the gearbox. One must ensure the path from under the filler cap to the nipples (under the tank) are clear . . .

@TJH, Are you referring to this "fitting/valve" on the right side of tank? This is the pressure regulator and not to be messed with!

I suppose my thinking is that if the nut comes off the bottom there is still a bolt in place. If the nut comes off the top, the bolt falls out.

About thirty points down on this checklist there is some discussion of the two nipples under the tank . . .

Heh, well, we certainly get more of them per mile!

Mountains = good! Seal Level = okay . . . Below seal level = NO GOOD!

seal level = "a happy accident!"

That brings up the question if @Mechanism's V11 now connects to guzzidiag (?) I also got a kick out the phrase "seal level." After all, when was the last time you saw a seal in the mountains?

I feel like that bolt on the pinch should be slightly longer and the lock nut should be renewed. I would also be inclined to insert the bolt downward with the nut on the bottom.

The Moto Guzzi Parts Catalog shows three of these "special tools" . . . 34mm GU 019 13 430 28mm GU 019 13 830 24mm GU 019 13 730 It is not specified what the "mm" designation refers to, perhaps the thread diameter of the "nut?"

In my past life, in the world of "finance" we cleverly said of this sort of "shell game": "The LARGE PRINT giveth, while the small print taketh away."

Chatting with a couple other South'n Spine Raiders, the question came up asking how many miles I have ridden mySport on SSRs #1/2004 through XX/2024. It was fun going back through my travel logs and finding 12,643 miles of SSR! Now, I admit I rode all of that in "miles", yet twenty thousand kays has a nice ring to it.

Just a wee clarification, if may . . . Early V11 Sports do not suffer classic Startus Interuptus like the LeMans and later variants that send the start current through through the ignition switch and back to the starter solenoid. The early V11 does benefit from a robust (true high current) micro relays, especially in Position #1/start. As do all V11 Spine Frames benefit from the high current relays, just that the later variants need the extra start relay as Kiwi_Roy has described. IIRC, someone was making a kit for this. Was it "Eastern Beaver?"

Hi, @igor! It is worth using this relay in all positions on all V11 SpineFrames, yet the starting circuit on your LeMans will likely benefit from the addition of a separate start relay for what our member @Kiwi_Roy calls "Startus Interuptus." Here is @stewgnu's wiring diagram of that modification: It is also notable that @stewgnu's starting issue was traced to the starter. itself: And a Kiwi_Roy post with further explanation including advice to inspect, clean, and lubricate the ignition switch:

West Coast Batteries, Corona, California, USA https://odysseybatteries.com/ https://odysseybatteries.com/odyssey/pc545.html