docc

@mikev, the 2000 Sport has a rather soft spring (springs, if you also consider the forks). The original Sachs spring is probably good for a 165 pound rider (in gear) with no luggage or racks. Have you "checked your sags?" If the sag is excessive, it cannot be properly corrected by simply cranking up the preload or increasing the damping.

@v11_meticcio ! ! Il nostro uomo sulla scena! Our man on the scene !

All that corrosion around the slave could simply be from the bleeder. Or from some prior attempt to bleed it. Might consider cleaning it up and using Teflon tape on the bleeder. After decades (literally now) of discussion over the front U-joint, best access looks to be from the front, coming across the U-joint guard through the shaft tunnel in the swingarm, and downward onto the Zerk (Zerk pointing upward, with the swingarm lowered) using an adjustable angle tip at 90º-ish . . . Otherwise, "You know. Snake Farm " . . .

I have always thought the frame side plates were cast. Not sure if this image helps make that discernible . . .

So, will there be "a quick hop ?" Our man on the scene . . .

I dated a single back in college, but once you get started with twins, well . . .

Agreed, Scud, the frame side plates are aluminum. [housekeeping note: moved this topic to 24/7 V11 for better viewing and archiving.]

This service item cannot be overstressed! Neglect the right, outboard bevel drive needle bearing cage (inboard of the swingarm) to the demise of the sealing nose of your crown wheel . . . Critical maintenance:

@Molly, and all-y'all, it occurs to me to suggest inspecting, cleaning, and greasing the torque reaction rod pivot bolts (especially the forward, frame side) . . . . . . and shock pivot bolts (especially the lower at the swingarm) . . . As well as the shift lever pivot bolt:

I put a spell on you! [at 12:41 . . . .]

I noticed how rusty the surfaces of the swingarm bearings are, as well. Life in the salt air of the Manx Sea, @Molly ?

Yah, I noticed the O-ring is encapsulated in the rust . . .

I read somewhere that a mix of 1/2 acetone + 1/2 automatic transmission fluid is a potent penetrating oil. Drizzle, heat, wait, repeat (maybe add a little vibration/percussion) while leaving the contraption in that tension state . . . perhaps, alternate with striking it into compression . . . Once apart, there is an O-ring in there that will need renewing.

spoof! "Trick-or-Treat!"

Mirror upstage . . .

I love how y'all take me new directions on this thread. The Vince Jones version took me to these guys . . .

Ah, yes, greasing the front Uni-joint can lead one to desperate measures . . .

Lots of us just remove the spacers and mount the signals directly.

Absolutely gorgeous V11 Sport! Does the regulator hang at a funny angle? Not loose on one side?

My Halloween set list . . .

Just a reminder if too much grease is left in the shaft cavity, the halves will not go back together or there will be restricted movement interfering with suspension travel. Nice to hear you enjoy "the process." Your spineframe will love you back!

Yes, they should slide freely apart. Yours has, evidently, rusted together. A good find and important to address! Perhaps an overnight with a penetrating product, then heat and some tapping with a persuader? Otherwise, penetrating oil-> heat-> hydraulic pressure pumping grease into the center Zerk?