docc

Having discovered the slider missing would motivate me to inspect, carefully, the mating channel in the caliper carrier and, more especially, the shaft extension of the locator bolt. When that fastener fails/falls out, the caliper/carrier becomes a liability as it circles the wheel on the rotor and tears the brake line loose. Halfway to bad day, that. Perhaps worth replacing that (special) fastener if it shows any signs of damage/fatigue/deformation.

Gorgeous view, @KernowNZ! Both the background and (especially) the foreground!

So, that's what they call a harmonica north of Tennessee? My pickin' buddy from south of Tennessee called his mouth harps "Mississippi Saxophone" . . .

This is the best I can approach understanding this: The secondary bearing in question is not the one at the shaft attachment to the frame (that one is tertiary). The primary bearing is in the Heim/Rose joint off the triple tree. The additional bearing in question is apparently attached to/ built into the damper body, whereas the Shindy mount has a solid clamp to the body. (I am prepared to stand corrected on this business . . .)

It's easy. It's like any other day stuck in draggy traffic on your motorcycle except that all the other traffic are also motorcycles.

Johnny Gotta-Gotta Boom-Boom could get me a ticket-ticket riding with this in my head . . .

This is such good procedure! I am happy to report mySport's Japanese Shindy passed the tests after ~68,000 miles/ fifteen years . . .

I might-should have posted that in our dedicated Hammers thread . . .

I am thinking they did not mean Birmingham, Alabama, USA . . .

I am really trying to get my head around this. Here are three damper set-ups. What are we looking for here? And how to spot the fault? My Shindy with basic Heim/Rose joints (like the factory set-up?): @ChrisPDX's HyperPro: @Lucky Phil's Öhlins with "solid fitting": I am not understanding where the "spherical bearing" is or if my set-up might have this issue. Thanks for the scrutineering.

That seems an odd fuse to fault from that bare insulation. Best keep looking..... [edit: I think Bubbles deserves her own thread....] [2nd edit: I did find this interesting, dedicated Bubbles thread:

Which fuse is it (counting from the front)?

The deed is done. Your Humble Wizard DeLuxe Link to outcomes:

Handed the "answer" tag to @MartyNZ. [edit: "Golden Elephant Stamp " ] It continues to amaze me how dedicated our community remains!

I can fix that, if you like . . . Disappearing Acts are within my paygrade . . .

So, was the left coil power supply plugged into the right coil causing each to fire at the wrong time?

Just so I understand, the electrical power to the void was connected wrong (right to left)?

Success!!!!! What was the solution, @swooshdave?

Sure. You are talking about the TPS procedure, yes? Done. Thanks, @swooshdave! "With a quality voltmeter, connect the positive to the violet/black wire and the negative to the violet (the yellow is not used for this setting). With the Run Switch on, switch on the keyed Ignition Switch. Adjust the TPS to 157 milivolts "

No, not the same thing! That is just some ridiculous coincidence that shows "1.57!" The TPS is set in millivolts (mV) to 157 mV with the throttle plate completely closed. Resistance (Ohms/Ω) are not used to baseline the TPS. Reference (and perform) the "Decent Tune-up" . . .

@Steve Swan, only the Tenni and Scura of 2002. Also, the 2001 Rosso Mandello.

More to the topic, I had always thought (no experience) that oil analysis is used to establish change intervals, especially on industrial and commercial equipment with very large capacities (gallons). Or optimizing oil change intervals over a fleet (drums) . . . ?

Have you performed a "Decent Tune-up?" Proper valve adjustment and throttle body balance goes a long way toward damping unwanted vibration . . .

I have used the lead shot method of damping vibration. Because of the constant abrasion and bi-metal corrosion, I would pack those pellets in a grease bath next time . . .