docc

SP838, you're talking a RAM clutch conversion, yes?

If you are getting 13.51v with the charger hooked up, after the 14.21v charge terminates, then that is your "float" voltage. Perfect! After maybe eight hours, consider terminating that charge and monitoring how long it takes the battery to drop back to 12.65v; then discharge and repeat. Makes these batteries really strong!

Check also that the Hidden Connectors to the front two fuses have not wiggled loose . . . https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19672-30-amp-fuse-failure/&do=findComment&comment=214872

16 years!!! The Odyssey PC545 is the OEM battery. Why not just get another?

Sure. It's really common that these batteries are delivered in need of a charge, often off the shelf at 50%. A series of discharge/charge events will help ensure the depth of charge and life of the battery. Use an approved charger with adequate amperage (6 amps or more) and voltages correct for the AGM: Odyssey PC545 Battery conditioning

The float was a typical 13.1v even though it said "AGM" on it. Yours looks like the real deal, though! (As long as that float voltage is over 13.2 . . .)

That voodoo we do . . .

Mind the "conditioning." Jus'sayin' . . .

"Don't [be] like my [docc]!" Dang , buddy: and here I am carrying around your Unbreakable Chook-made Shift Spring . . .

Do the voltages (Charging 14.2-14.7v) and "float" (13..5-13.8v) check out, Dave? I ask because I returned a charger (not that model) from that manufacturer that did not check out . . .

Well, nuts! I stayed up all night pulling my gearbox (not) . . . .

Lots of folks get up to ten years from the OEM Odyssey PC545. IMO, they benefit from some consistent attention (conditioning) and an Odyssey approved charger, but so many get good service from them without fussing over that.

How does that 1/4" shaft compare with the factory 6speed twin-plate pushrod you have?

WHAAAAAT? OH $#!T . . . That's the way it came off. Of course, the retention safety washer had not been correctly staked and it walked of on its own. Tomchri's looks the same here?: The new safety washer tab indexed smartly with the "nut" in this orientation: I can't find this assembly in the Workshop Manual at all.

Right. The "hub" fastens to the gearbox input shaft with a special nut and "safety retention washer" with a tab that turns down to lock the "slotted nut." Don't let it walk off and end up like po'-po' me . . .

The fourth spacer is inside the reardrive. I really do not want to open up another reardrive unless I absolutely have to. Seems the rear axle carries four bearings, four spacers, and three "forks" (two of the swingarm and one for the brake bracket) . . . busy axle, as I said!

The various bearings I have all show nearly identical width of the inner races using my dial caliper (not a micrometer, but probably good enough). I don't think this application is a good place for extra lateral play, but if the spacer is correct it should be fine . . . yes? As I said, I am also replacing the spacer between the inboard wheel bearing and inboard reardrive bearing. The one that hangs on the axle when we take our wheel off. Also replacing the right side sleeve that seats inside the exposed needle cage.

I'm not sure if I have a parts bike or an art exhibit . . .

I know it "says" $1.00-$5.00, but there is a current price request to be entered . . . someone ought to do that to get their current actual pricing.

Right? A $3800 Coppa that can be started with two screwdrivers!

That is the same TPS I got from CA Cycle Works shipped for $~92US. Anyone want to submit a price request to Alibaba?

So, for certain, my internal wheel spacer is 112mm and (using LuckyPhil's method of removing a bearing and using a caliper for depth to the seating surface) the distance between the the bearings is definitely 113mm. No idea why this set-up worked pretty much all this time and now it toasts bearings almost immediately. I'm replacing two other spacers to try and tighten up the potential stacked tolerances. Also, the SKF have a thinner inner race than the Chinese "National" and much thinner than the C3 Koyo. Could this be a factor? And is the C3 the right thing for this application? (Left to right: Romanian Koyo C3 / Xhinese "National" bought as Federal Mogul / Argentinian SKF ):

Yep. I would still check the voltages with a good DVOM. I've returned "AGM" chargers that didn't make the correct voltages. Is this one on Odyssey's List of Approved Chargers?

I use calipers a lot, but they’re awkward for certain things like a brake rotor with a ridge or trying to measure the width of the inner race on my sketchy wheel bearings .

Yeah, I am just only needing something "occasionally." "01s, 1-2s, 2-3s", then . . . Looking for a proper source . . .