docc

Ha! After basking in the pure romance of these two icons complimenting one-another's existence, I was struck by the likely technological similarities. After all, they both must be harboring great, hulking, sulfurous bevel-boxes! And there is no escaping the magnificently Quixotic attraction. Evidently, I have been personally afflicted with that aspect of the V11 without prospect of cure. I feel pretty certain I should stay well away from windmills!

You are correct, my mis-type. I couldn't find it earlier (pressed to the limits today), but saw it just now and corrected the mistake. Thanks for checking my work, y'all!

Okay, I found my typo and fixed it. Thanks, Chuck!

Nope. Odyssey is adamant that the battery will not charge with under 6 volts AMPS [edited/ thanks, Chuck!]. In my experience, low amp (under 6A)/ low voltage (under 14.2v) will look like they have charged the battery (static voltage comes up), but once a load is applied, it is back to where it started (or less). "Float" or "trickle" charging is another matter, but if the PC545 is under 12.65v, Odyssey specifies a minimum of 6amps to bring the voltage to no more than 15.0v. There is no amperage maximum. So, you can do this manually with a "car charger" by watching the voltage and terminating the charge based on voltage. "Pulsing" the AGM, as many chargers do in "desulfation mode" is not recommended for the AGM. If it makes the max voltage within seconds or minutes, discharge the battery (clip on a light bulb), and repeat until the voltage stays stable (above 12.65v) for extended periods (days to weeks). [ 12.84v @ 77ºF/25ºC is a 100% AGM ]

Hey, thanks for asking. I restored some images and links Had to do some edits on this thread. Learned some things since 2007! . . .

PC545 is the direct replacement for the "Spark500." Not sure what that PC 925L is (?) So, yep, as new these batteries come at maybe 50% and should be "conditioned." Hopefully the thread "Odyssey PC545 Battery Conditioning" will be helpful. It is a lengthy thread, but has a "best answer" post that may be the most concise on the "method." There are discussions noted on the fact that "new" (check your date codes) Odyssey should be conditioned before installation. Be willing to observe, even record the "voltage sequence", and perform the discharge/charge cycle a few times with the correct amperage/voltages ("approved charger"), and your experience is likely to be stellar!

No reason to go MJ (Metal Jacket) for this application.

Pretty impressive to run across an old Spark 500! There may be a date code on it. You "might" bring it back with the Deep Discharge Recovery method from the "Conditioning" thread, but probably not with a charger alone.

Original tank. No lining. Had its share of ethanol. Got away from it for a while, but been using US Shell premium V-Power Nitro+. I like the way the Sport runs on this fuel, but it still has the ethanol component. And the *binary azeotropes* that go with it. Weird, this started after I did that tank drain test of how much fuel gets trapped in a V11 tank.

Right? It has an oily consistency, as well. That is partly why I chased after it with the crankcase vent return for so long. I really don't understand why my fuel tank is doing this.

How does the voltage series look (key off after a few hours, lights on for two or three minutes, cranking, idle, and at some rpm)? Might be time to get a look at your starter magnets?

At this point, it is clear that "whatever" has been dripping under the back of my sump is not the "Crankcase Vent Return Line" as the topic is titled. The results of the foot powder spay test were misleading. Today, I finally got to ride after the Sport sat 7 weeks. Rode about 50 miles and fueled 4.3 gallons, being careful not to fill into the neck. Spooge Trap was empty after a long lunch with the guys, and again after another 23 miles for a visit. Another 60 miles home, and there it is.

I have heard Gianelli on a V11. They are delicious! I am not sure they should be allowed to call them "Silencers" . . .

Hey, bud, the mainliest thing is to apply 6 amps or more to get the voltage up to 14.7-15.0. Low amperage will NOT charge an Odyssey. Low amp "Tricklers" below 13.2v are Odyssey death.

Make sure you are using a minimum of 6 amps to bring it up to the 14.7v target. (Even taking it to the 15.0v max would be okay a time or two . . . ) Terminate the charge and repeat as many times as it takes to hold the charge. Technically, letting the battery drop statically to 12.65v (@77ºF), then discharging it before charging with over 6 amps will likely give you the best results. You're on the right track! With your 2002, it is also good medicine to inspect and service the Ignition Switch . . . And use Caig DeOxit® ! On what? On everything!!

Here I was thinking when the early 40mm forks changed to the LongFrame 43mm mounted above the triple, the clip-on diameter also changed?

Jaap restored the "Best Answer" feature and I tagged one of the more concise posts in that lengthy battery conditioning thread. czakky, I was reminded of your post in Feb. 2015, very similar to what you have going on now: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18838-odyssey-pc545-battery-conditioning/&do=findComment&comment=202277

When those threads all got moved to "How to . . .", the "answered" feature was lost. I wish we could restore that to make those threads more of a reference instead of having to wade through the entire process and content.

Immediately dropped to 12.45v? Seems the 12.77v was just on the surface. So, yep: condition your battery and try again . . .

12.45 is a really weak AGM. Like 50% at 40ºF. Seriously, discharge the battery with the lights. and apply 6 amps, or more, to bring the battery manually to 14.7 volts (do not exceed 15v). Discharge with the lights and repeat. You can restore these AGM, but only with adequate amperage and a mind to the correct voltages.

Hi, JKV11! Yes, the resistance of the LED are not great enough for the flasher to function correctly. You may have results changing to an electronic "flasher" unit designed for the task. Others have added resistors or diodes to the circuit. I found that only using the rear signal units, only, lets my Sport function normally while retaining the front incandescent bulbs.

A beautiful V11 LeMans juxtaposed with traditional Dutch windmills just seems so right on so many levels . . .

Tom, if it stopped charging, perhaps it was not so much rich on one side, but simply not firing (and burning the mixture) well? Why not get her charging, do a complete tune-up and ride the first chance you get. Recheck the plugs and decide if the problem has solved itself . . .

Basic guzidiag tutorial for V11 That and proceed with the "Decent Tune-up" (or equivalent).