docc

If you can get "hi-test" (91-93 US) non-ethanol, then go for it. Otherwise, I have had excellent results with Shell Premium V-Power Nitro +. Even with diligent "Decent tuning" and stock map (some mods), my Sport pops and sputters more on "other" brands' premium fuel. See to your Decent Tune-up, and find some free-er flowing exhaust canisters that you love.

I've learned to be watching for a faint glow of the fuel level light at 135-140 miles. In my early tank (chin pad with external pump and filter), that would take a 4.1 or 4.2 US gallon fill and a safe 25 miles to get fuel. The light will go out on an up hill, in a left-hander, or harder on the throttle. If you wait until the light stops its faint glow, go-off-come-on dance and comes on full bright: you are >out (Yep, learned that the hard way . . .) I recently had this so tightly scheduled and had to detour my route, got caught behind slow moving traffic and she sputtered out at 165 miles. I felt it coming on and cut the motor off, coasted into a safe pull-off and performed a very deep "tip-slosh" to the left. Rode the last couple miles like nothing had happened.

How about it, LeMaynes? Getting things around?

Pretty sure Paul Minnaert has extensive experience on this fitment . . .

Same here: 35.5-36.5 miles/US gallon. I have measured 5.1 gallons from mine a couple times. Don't make me post proof!

So, yep. When I saturate the bottom of the left throttle body through the spring, the idle falters significantly. Throttle shaft is pretty wobbly, as well.

It occurred to me I can spray some solvent or cleaner on the underside of the shafts while its idling and see if the idle changes just like looking for any vacuum leak . . . Using the air screws to balance the idle has always seen mine a bout 1/4 off from each other, but this is a big change just lately. I mean, it is idling fine and runs great, just keeping an eye on things and wanting to know what to expect from the old girl.

Right? And what-the-hell-exactly is that gorgeous piece of kit?!?

Soooo . . . I learned sumpin' when my V11 driveshaft yolk came from together: "That ain't jus' janky. That is totally cob." (I'm telling you, Josh knows the difference.)

[i've moved my thread hijack about TPS to its own discussion based upon my results today:] TPS Setting, Importance & Sensitivity

After the good fortune to ride the Sport today (always a joy, but especially in mid-February here!), I was elated to find all of the popping, hiccups, and hesitations gone. The idle was stable without stutters or pops, no lurching or "misfires" moving away from a stop or rolling on out of corners. Gone, also, was the popping and crackling on deceleration. I had a great "long way to work" through the hills and hollers (45 miles). This outcome is especially satisfying as the only change I made was setting the TPS (Fully closed throttle plate, etc.) from 172 mv to 157 mv. Idle was still a little low for my tastes, so I checked the Throttle Body Balance (and because I promised Meinolf I would! ) I had opened and gently warmed the mercury chamber of my MotionPro "Balance Sticks" to above the dew point to (hopefully) evacuate moisture. The mercury columns rode up solid and clear of gaps. Balance was perfect at "some rpm" (2000-3000), but way off at idle. I brought he RH air bypass screw out 1 & 1/2 turns and the LH is about half that. The mercury settled out evenly and the idle rose and stabilized. I did not have to move the idle stop screw. (Disclaimer: I acknowledge that Meinolf has an expertly crafted map and method to defeat the air bypass entirely.) So, #1) I am impressed the TPS really is that sensitive. It must have been right on the break point where I could not stabilize the tune. I remember fussing and fussing with the Throttle Body Balance as it would jump back and forth suddenly trying to set the "white knob". No way I would skip the TPS setting in the Tune-up again (I skipped it twice/ 10,000 miles and it "told on me!" ) And #2) Why do my air bypass screws have to be so different from one another now? Over 100,000 miles/ 178.000 km and the throttle body shafts and seals are leaking air in that badly? Something with my valves/guides/ heads?

Inlet blow-off is a sure sign of throttle body imbalance/ out of tune. Have yourself a fine time loving on your V11 and perform the "Decent Tune-up." She will quite likely love you back for it! (Then we can go from there with other bits . . . )

I'm not so sure. I talked to a guy at the Wisconsin rally that said he was on flywheel number 3. The most he'd ever gotten out of one was 16K miles. "Steel is real?"

I had to laugh at the thought of that line of lawn-mower motored choppers plying the roadways.

I came across this by DaveB speaking of his Tenni: To ride it is to love it.

Hey! I resemble that remark!

I mean, they're just plugs, right? Should not have high torque or thread locker?

So, I was given the proper O-rings to perform this task. They are simply under a plug beneath the valve cover, no need to disturb the rocker assembly or the head bolts.. I absolutely could not get that 10mm hex-drive plug loose. Out came the Gedore 500 kg machinist's hammer and the impact tool. No budge. I quit before tearing it up. Perhaps with the tank off, I could apply heat and try again . . .

Perhaps I can stop filling the neck well up into the tank and see if this improves or abates. Maybe it only occurs after a fill up and that's why it has been so sporadic. As the tank heat soaks from the engine after you park it post tank fill they will often pass some fuel out the vent docc. Try topping right up and not so full and see the difference if any with regards to "spooging" Ciao Will do. Odd that it is relatively new behavior. It seemed to have started after I completely emptied the tank to measure the trapped fuel on the right side. Yet, I thought maybe it is a characteristic of the fuel formula I've been running. Dunno, but it is a nasty, oily spooge. It occurred to me that the Guzzi gods are taking it out on me for how this turned out . . .

Lighter flywheel?

When I saw Tom said it was "too hot to ride", I worried that he had to kindle the V11 to thaw out lutefisk in the Norwegian winter . . . Now I'm having trouble feeling sorry for you, Buddy. You had me going , there for a while . . .

Dunno but if I were to guess: https://www.electrosport.com/collections/regulator-rectifiers/products/esr515-regulator-rectifier-ducati-1-phase-charge-light-output ESR 515, then. Thanks for the clarification. Let us know how it works out . . .

Which one is that? (OEM?) https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20451&p=235432 Okay, so "Electrosport." I see you asked, in that linked thread, "Which Electrosport is it?" , but I don't see a reply to that question. So, which Electrosport is it?

Here is a post in one of those threads ("Sticking Clutch") that has a link to craigsinclair's comments, among several other links. The discussion about the RAM clutch in that thread runs from page 2/ Post#25 to page 4/ Post# 54. This will be a good thread to bring together those, like Paradiso, who have done this fitment successfully.

Perhaps I can stop filling the neck well up into the tank and see if this improves or abates. Maybe it only occurs after a fill up and that's why it has been so sporadic.