docc

This is absolutely true. Moto Guzzi replaced my entire throttle body/injector assembly for this drip point, but my excellent dealer taught me that even running it briefly, say to show off or enjoy the beautiful sound, would dribble the throttle body shafts. When it was new, I started it up like that A LOT. Can't figure out how this spooge purges from the tank vent only after it has sat, sometimes for days and days. I took the discussion back over to the Crankcase Vent Return Line thread since I've been trying to solve it that way.

Yeah, bud. There ya go. Consider removing the pivot bolt and servicing the whole shebang. you've got this!

Which one is that? (OEM?)

The connections ("pawls") look splayed to me, buddy. Shortening the connector shaft may be worthwhile. This would be a good starting point, to fully fettle and tune this shift mechanism. Totally worth the effort before cracking into the gearbox, itself. Cycle it while looking for binding points. It is a mess of a thing with lots of potential binding points.

All good. Pretty sure your insight got antmanbee running. But, yeah, need a new thread on "Gas Spooge." I can't seem to get mine to stop! WTH?

[Edit/ Feb 6, 2019: LuckyPhil's image went dead in that last post, so I posted one of his Chuck-made/LuckyPhil Extended Shift Levers on my Sport.] "Lucky Phil extender mod " : https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19580&hl=+shift%20+lever&page=1

Go to this thread to see the full image: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18593&p=198257

Shim stock for the pivot:

Wow, man! So great you have this V11 back on the road! Welldone and congratulations! antmanbee ! Now time for the fettling and fine tuning . . . First order of business to to asses and adjust the external shift mechanism. Observe whether anything in that train of parts strikes any obstruction in the throw. Look to see that the two "pawls" that attach to the connecting rod are parallel. If there is excessive play in the foot lever, shim it to the subframe and adjust the tension on the pivot bolt/ lock nut so that the pivot is free, but no excessive play. (I'm looking for an image of that "parallelogram" arrangement . . .)

In a curious development, Andy York displayed an image of some similar "gas spooge" (as he so apply calls it) under his LeMans. Some kind of slippery, yellow goop. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20660&p=237368 "on a different note....I could swear mine was fuel injected but this sure looks like gas spooge " ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I thought, "Hey, that looks just like my nefarious spooge!" After fuss-fitting the return line and sourcing replacement parts (not yet fitted), the spooge returned in the night, spontaneously, again. The return line looked dry while the tank vent looked wet, so I put a wee spooge bag over it and waited like a trapper baiting snipe. And LO! Captured spooge! What the hell is this yuck?

Dang. That looks like the same funky spooge that keeps showing up under my Sport. I kept coming back to the crankcase vent return line, and *maybe* it had issues, too. Yet, I isolated the tip of the tank vent after the nasty spooge returned and installed a spooge bag over the tank vent. Lo and behold: captured spooge!

I see craigsinclair has not logged in here for a couple months. Maybe his post in his thread, "Shifting woes . . .", will help: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19621&p=218685

Outstanding, antmanbee! From experience, I can say that Andy will work for > Liquido Speciale . . .

Thanks, Meinolf! Will do a resynch. I noticed several uneven clear spaces in the mercury columns this last time and struggled to get the columns even. I have always assumed this is water that has condensed onto the mercury. Since the bike should be warmed up to synch, I’ll get the chance to see if there is any noticeable change from the TPS adjustment.

TPS Baseline with the throttle plate completely closed = 157 millivolts. We have Meinolf to thank for this very specific derivation. There is no specific voltage for the TPS idle voltage or "degrees opening." Put that wherever you and the V11 are happy for your conditions and preferences (Step#6) (I am not understanding "max reading of each cylinder" . . . )

After skipping Step 2, TPS Baseline reset, on my last two Tune-ups, and reading more of what Meinolf has shared with us about the TPS, I removed any reference to skipping this step. It's only six steps. Just do it!

After my recent 5,000 mile/ 8.000 km tune-up, my Sport renewed it's undesirable popping and burbling on the over-run (closed throttle decelerating), idle stumble, with popping and hiccups below 3,500 rpm. But, it really ran like the cliché scalded dog 4,000 to redline. I had decided to skip the TPS reset and simply adjusted the valves, new plugs, and throttle body balance. I looked at my notes and see I skipped the TPS last time as well. No good. TPS was 172 mv. I have set it back to 157 mv, but probably will not get to test ride for some time. So, at 172 mv, would this account for why it ran wildly stronger in the upper range and lost its ability to stay stable below 3500? [Amended the Decent Tune-up to retain emphasis on this critical step.]

Intimately related to "Polished Wrenches" . . . "Hammers"

I considered the double O-ring conversion (later model V11 change). Perhaps, I'll get that "reduction" as well and see how they compare. Why not? This is no real failure. Just an odd drip I would like to be rid of. Kinda like that *buzz* in the console of your car that want to stick a shim in.

Worst? That little wire on the edge gets into the motor and does ugly. Sure, there is the screen and the filter, but I figure I'll clean it up first. The wet-paper dry is a good idea. It is one of the last, annoying drips that I would like to see gone. In the meantime, it has been another great learning experience.

On many V11, you can "just" get to those bullet connectors with the tank in place. Much harder with the faired LeMans, but they may be pretty easily serviced on a Sport. LongFrame RossoCorsa (faired like a V11LeMans) :

Seems I read somewhere that the practice of cadmium plating is driven more by corrosion resistance while on the shelf or in the parts bin, rather than be the actual solution for being in service. Looks like I may be bruising the plating trying to dress this up a bit.

So, here is the sump "reducer/reduction/adapter" (GU01161330) that connects the crankcase vent return line back to the sump on the early Sport before the V11 change to the double O-rings. Thread outside diameter looks to be 15mm. I don't suppose I could install this without dressing that dinged-up tip and the shard of wire draping off the inside of the bore.

taking this deOxit advise and stocking up. a cleaner and a treatment? they make so many products. even the 'gold' Cliff recommends has varying applications. what's a basic kit to get? The multitude of their products stopped me from using it for a long, long time. The Gold has served me well both on the V11 and my music and sound equipment (guitar, tube amp, PA, mics, etc). I clean with CRC Electronics Cleaner first, but only to minimize how much DeOxit I use. Frankly, they are both pricey. But no comparison on outcomes. What Chuck sez ^

Sounding like "stacked tolerances." Cleaning (CRC Electronics Cleaner), treating (Caig DeOxit), and re-seating all the connections (fuses, relays, battery terminal stack . . . switches, every connector!) is all good method. (NO silicon "dielectric" grease, please! ) Nothing (absolutely nothing) works like Caig DeOxit. The Spanish Fly of electrical systems . . . Battery health of the AGM Odyssey PC545 is complex, but critical. Sure, a PC545 at 50% (12.5v) can still crank your V11 (usually), but stacked with a series of marginal connections, or low ambient temperatures, and it's *click-click-click*, or just the Brown-Out. I have seen, personally, Trickle Charger Death of the Odyssey. Low voltage/low amperage charging just does not go deep enough into the "pure lead" plates. The manufacturer (EnerSys Odyssey) is adamant about this. Even a cheap voltmeter can be revealing if you record those five voltage states I posted. Even if you have a non-Odyssey AGM, those voltage measures can be helpful.