docc

But NOT an aluminum flywheel (one would hope)?

Just to (try and) clarify, the later LongFrames do have additional lower subframe bracing to the lower rear engine cases, but only the very earliest of ShortFrames got the spine-to-gearbox plate (like the even earlier Sport 1100/1100 Sport-i). Looks like the factory dispensed with the connecting plate very early on (probably because it is way fiddly to install around the fuel injection/throttle bodies). My March 2000 built Sport did not come with the plate. I have never seen one from the factory on a US V11.

DeOxit. On what? On every-frikkin'-thing!

Low battery? Put a voltmeter on it. 1) key off 2) key on, hi-beam, 2-3 minutes 3) cranking If she'll start, then also: 4) idle charge voltage 5) at "some rpm

" . . . a trailer . . . " That's a new one . . . How was the job getting the old ones out, Brains66?

I was jus' gonna start complaining that our south'n hemisphere brothers (winter here- summer there) are holding out on us . . . Thanks, LuckyPhil !

agreed. speaking as an ...rock will prevail https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=208&v=3B0QHAwtvbE So, there's your birthday present, -KG- . . . Happy Birthday!

My 110,000 mile Tekno have never fallen off, but have needed repair and refinishing. I'm on my second pair of bags now as the originals were getting right tatty. I have really put them through their paces, always carrying a serious load-out and the occasional case of beer. Yes, they'll carry a full case! (I admit, they ain't purty . . .)

"Crankcase pressure?"

So, I was thinking the ECU model is what drives the CO setting and the TPS procedure? CO Fuel Trim is set with guzzidiag (or Meinolf's method directly in the EEPROM). And that the TPS cannot be set in the ECU like, say, a 1200 Sport? Which translates to setting the TPS manually with a voltmeter? But, again, I don't know how the Bassa is configured, but just thinking it must be very similar to a 2000 V11 Sport . . .

Unless I'm missing something.. the TPS is reset manually on that model. I thought so, too. But I don't know how to tune a Bassa. The ECU is 15M?

Wow, man, that is a beautiful bike!

I think he has a tonti bassa (just guessing) so the TPS is on the bottom of the throttle body on the left. I did post this hastily before I went to work and yes there is more to do such as bypass screws, idle balancing and midrange balancing after setting the TPS. I was not trying to give a complete guide as to how to do it, just to mostly point out that a number of other things need to be addressed before getting into Guzzi Diag. I would recommend reading the thread you linked as well as googling it to read several other extensive threads on this. This is a good one to read too. http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/2012/10/throttle-position-sensor-setting_21.html I read and printed out about a half dozen guides/how to's before I attempted my first TPS reset/TB sync. I followed Meinolf's recommended settings for my Tonti frame 1100s. Oh, gosh . . . I totally missed that Bassa reference. Seems I am the hasty poster!

Hm, setting the TPS is a good idea, but it’s on the right and there’s a bit more to it than that. Check out the “Decent Tune-up” in How to . . . https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610&page=1&&do=findComment&comment=213277

nealwp, Also, confirm that your OBDII cable is FTDI chipped.

I think we we are safely to the point we can ask ScuRoo which one he is bringing home . . .

Second question first, no, the PC does not do what guzzidiag does. For instance, the PC will not adjust the CO Fuel Trim in the ECU, AFAIK. On connecting, have you read through the Basic guzzidiag tutorial for V11? The first post walks through the connection process. There are some replies and external links in that thread that deal further with this very issue. Welcome to V11LeMans.com, nealwp!

Eh, I suppose draining the sump also drains the return line and we would never know what, or how much comes out of it . . .

Not much riding weather here in the south'n US. Time to charge batteries and build routes for the spring . . .

Since I am going to be replacing the leaking return line on my Sport, I ordered a new "reduction" from Harper's. Looks like it is coming from MGNA, ~$20US. I am interested to see what drains out of the return line when I take it loose, and if I can get the frame flushed to some extent. Those of you who remove your sump to change the filter, do you take this line loose? And: does it drain out a volume of nasty, oily fluid when you do?

Diesel smells good... even better than used gear oil. Damning with faint praise there.. Scud. Pathognomonic signs of having been under an F250 in an enclosed space for extended periods . . .

In a case like antmanbee's where there is likely metallic particulate in the crankcase vent system, what about installing an inline filter (like a fuel filter) in the return line for extra assurance?

I've heard the spine reservoir is hard to purge, especially if there has been engine damage. no engine damage here, just pushing twenty years of accumulation. How to "MammyTamper" the SpineFrame clean-out?

Now that she sat for a couple weeks, after the 104 mile New Year's Day ride, there is a little puddle of that funky yellow goop on the lift. I really don't get why it is so sporadic and unpredictable. I do get that I need to change the return line. I have a replacement line, but think I should also renew the "reduction" fitting to the sump. "Once and done," as me bud Zapp is apt to say . . . This begs the question about just how filled up my spine frame is with nasty, old oil-like fluid from 110,000 miles of crankcase ventilation; some of that with non-synth Castrol, among other debatable oil selections. Can the spine crankcase ventilation reservoir be "purged?" Does it matter?

Someone asked me why I was asking guys on a motorcycle forum about my amp. "Because I trust them," I said quite confidently.