docc

OHHHH, NOOOOOO! My Fender Bassman re-pop went ded, Jim! I cried out like a baby. Loverly wife came running down two flights of stairs thinking I was trapped under a jacked car. Two 6L6 output tubes still lit, and the one on the far left is dark and cold . . . What to do? Just re-seat it with some Caig DeOxit®? Or is it "ded, Jim?"

I was thinking my valves might be sunk in enough by now just to go with the big honker cam . . .

Wow, -KG- , what an excellent and comprehensive article! Thank you! They seem to like the TT very much. HDPE tank (no more dreaded Nylon!) and more buzz about a "road" bike. I suppose by The Centennial . . .

With good, truly expert advice, I stopped before smearing the vent gasket with anything. After all, they are not actually "paper." And what (another true expert) Josh said: "Get Clinical" . . . (Be sanitary, "sponge count = 7") . . .

This begs the question where to put this information. FAQ threads are locked. So, a page could be put there, but cannot be amended or added to by the membership. We could leave it here and hope a search will bring it up, but the search function really works best with the: Advanced Search function and this tutorial. Recently, the several pinned threads in Technical Topics were moved to the "How to . . ." subforum. While discussion remains open, the "Answered" function was lost. I intend to talk with Jaap about restoring it as it makes "getting to the bottom of things" more approachable.

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Dave Blue is a solid guy. While working for MGNA in Georgia, he saved my bacon when I did something stupid to my Sport during a fill-up in the first few months I had it. Like I said: Dave is a solid guy! As to the "Ten Best Things" you can do to your V11, and how to interface with the ECU, we have thoroughly documented, pinned threads in "How to . . ." Decent Tune-up Basic guzzidiag tutorial for V11 Diagnostic Cables Best Relay After that, it comes down to the "small stuff" in FAQ . . . Tank Off Maintenance Checklist Wheels off Maintenance Checklist [docc's moderator disclaimer: I didn't invent the content of those threads. They are compendia of the vast knowledge and experience we have collected, collectively, over these fifteen+ years. And they keep getting tested, edited and improved with all-y'alls' help. ]

I edited my post regarding using Loctite on the flywheel bolts to the crank. The Workshop Manual specifies "medium strength Loctite."

My friction discs were shot, and got replaced. All of the steel surfaces cleaned up. I replaced the springs, but only because they were cheap and I was already in there. I recall torquing the flywheel to spec, in stages. I do not recall Loctite there, unless I referenced it in that thread. [edit: yep, I remember the LocTite on those bolts, now. Torque spec in the Workshop Manual specifies "medium strength Loctite"] I had some fantastic, expert help going back together. I also recall forgoing any lube on the splines as that is likely to sling off into the friction material.

BTW, I did some voltage testing on the Sport yesterday. Years ago, I gave up running a Gerbings heated jacket along with their gloves (99 watts + 22 watts = ~4.75 amps) as the Sport just wouldn't carry them without keeping the rpm well up. After the "improvements" to my charging system (grounding improvements, Caig DeOxit everything, battery "conditioning", 30 amp fuse substitute, and various LED including headlights on a dedicated circuit), I thought I would do some checking. FWIW, there is 38,000 miles/ 61.000 km and ten years on my OEM Ducati Energia regulator. Somewhere around 65ºF/18ºC, the battery showed 12.76v. Key on with LED hi-beam/fan: 12.15v. Idle at 1200 rpm: 14.2v. With the 77w jacket on, it needed 1800 rpm to get the desired 14.2v. Adding the 22w gloves required 2400 rpm to make the 14.2v. So, this is a ton better than before when I had to get close to 4,000 rpm to keep the desired charge voltage. Pretty sure I'm cleared to run the jacket and gloves, both, tomorrow for the New Year's Day Ride (~45ºF/ 7ºC).

I can only think of a couple connections that are not weather proof: the two yellow wire "bullet connectors" carrying the AC charge from the stator to the regulator and the two "bullet connectors" alongside the forward left side of the frame for the clutch lock-out switch. Other suspects could be: the connector for the sidestand switch (left, forward frame area), a single connector for the tach (right frame area), and a single connector back by the relay blocks (seems like that's for the ECU, I forget). Not sure how these three are configured, they may be sealed. ) Otherwise, all of the connectors benefit from cleaning and treating with The Amazing Caig DeOxit® and being certain they are fully seated. The enhanced connectivity can be revealing!

At 5,000 miles/ 8.000 km, it could have used a (US) "quart", but I just changed the oil/filter instead. Valve adjustment, plugs, balance the throttle bodies: Magic! What an awesome bike!

Some folks were asking how the Sport pulls after the 110,000 mile tune-up . . .

See Section B-4, page B-12, of the Workshop Manual. Most fasteners on the V11 are torque spec'd by their size and not location/application.

I had some great fun tonight going back through this entire thread. Most interesting thing is how many long-time members keep coming back to V11 LeMans.com! I posted this one a couple years ago, but a good friend just handed me a few pints brought especially from way-out-west Montana. Can't get this one locally . . . Kettle House Cold Smoke "Scotch Ale", Missoula, Montana. Pairs well with re-furbed alt covers and Cable-pinstriped toolboxes . . . (all very, very rare!)

Truly. I figure if it gets peckered up in this configuration, no one can tell! In a couple years, I can say, "Next year it'll be twenty years old!" At least this part will look it!

All of that looks totally great! No signs of any oil wetness inside that "bell" housing anywhere? Hah! I so missed that . . . thanks for the second chance!

I've heard of engines missing before, but that pic is pretty revealing . . . You'll be fine; the prominently featured hammer makes for a comforting talisman!

You guys know what a V11 devotee I am, but this has me a bit buzzed up . . .

In the US, property damage (bike and gear) is typically settled quickly, while Bodily Injury is is given to the Claims Adjuster From H(iccup). Establishing the bike's value is Priority One, before accepting any settlement. Do not surrender your title. Seriously, in round numbers, with no hard, current references, a running 2000 V11 Sport could not be replaced for less than $3500-5500 US. That does not include having the bike shipped to your location. Insurance is about "indemnification" (making whole your position prior to the loss).

I mean, who actually looks? "Right?"

Alright. Sorry, dudes. I went rogue (again) . . . . clear coated what zinc chromate stayed on after the bench grinder's wire wheel . . . Haha: yep! That is the actual "finish!"

I mean, it's not like anyone ever notices this aspect. I had to put the bike on the lift and get down on the floor to get this view. Pretty sure this is my best attempt to "re-finish" the alt cover. I just could not paint over that reveal. I mean, that's what 110,000 miles/ 177.000 km looks like! Perhaps, a bit of poetic/industrial-arts/license?

Thanks, man! Once all that paint did not come off under the wire wheel, I thought, "This should be preserved." Looking like a camo pattern from an Aermacchi prop plane . . . Then I started looking at the valve covers and shaking the rattle can. That's when the barkeep cut me off . . .

This is my fourth refinish. I had a lot of fun with the zinc chromate thing; learned a lot from all the discussion here! I looked at carbon fiber covers, but couldn't make a decision. After running this one over the wire wheel on the bench grinder, I found a lot of the zinc chromate holding fast. Desiring to put the lower "tongue" extension back to silver (before the road does!), and still wanting the homage to Carcano and the green primer race bikes, I decided to sand it with 600 grit and clear coat it. Patina, preserved!