docc

I was hoping it would be the sealing (crush) washer, but looks to be weeping from the "flange fitting", itself (?) All this nipple talk gets me worked up, so I "re-seated" the hose fitting (loosened and tightened and repeated until I cranked it down right-well). If there is a nipple in there, it should be impressed by now!

I have had the funkiest intermittent leak of something that looks like "PB Blaster" that I thought was coming from the tank vent/overflow. Turns out it is coming from the crankcase vent return line. It is tight. And re-tight. (edit/July 2019: my leak is from the vent/overflow, but read on, as there is good info on the return line and changes to those fittings over the V11 production run . . .) Is there any hope when these start to weep?

Turns out this mudguard has more "shop wear" than I recalled. Anyone out there (say, in sunny California ) with a pristine rear mudguard they took off the first day they brought their V11 home? Twin AH is still hopeful!

Welcome, Tennmoto! Can't wait to see that red Sport at the next South'n Spine Raid (First weekend after Labor Day, Tellico Plains, Tennessee)!

I had to test my bad TPS by unhooking it and checking the resistance in Ohms while slowly opening and closing. I found a spot that "jumped" where the TPS had gone bad. Canonman, have you performed the full "Decent Tune-up" that czakky posted in Post#2?

I like the idea of a switch to connect and disconnect. Would love to see a picture of the circuit breaker you’ve installed. Check out pages 4 and 5 in this thread showing how I installed this style of circuit breaker:

Good advice to service the connections under the top rubber cap. I see this entry in the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist: >Remove the top and bottom rubber caps from the rear brake master cylinder and inspect, clean, and lubricate. Use only silicone based grease around brake parts (under the master cylinder, inside the rubber cap). Make sure there is good electrical connection to the switch at the top and avoid the silicone based lubes (dielectric) on electrics - simple petroleum jelly (Vaseline®, or better: Caig DeOxit Gold®) will keep the moisture out. Grease does not conduct electricity - it's just to keep the moisture out. http://www.v11lemans...=18158&p=192643

have you documented this project Roy, here or elsewhere? Kiwi_Roy's thread, Installing Speedhut Gauges in "How to . . ." The first post contains Kiwi_Roy's typical level of expertise, excellent detail, and documentation. The rest of that thread (15 pages!) documents several other approaches to Speedhut installation. Some of the images have been lost, but the thread is phenomenal.

I would be nervous pulling that fuse in and out since the holders are already known to be weak. Easy for me with the switchable circuit breaker installed. Yet, aren't those the same diodes that can "go bad" in the SCR regulators?

@bbolesaz, True, that. I've learned to place online Guzzi parts orders (with whomever), and call a few days later on availability confirmation. With MotoInternational shuttered, I'm bouncing between Harper, MGCycle, and AF1 Racing. AF1 in Austin, Texas, probably has the best website interface, but no knowledge of these "old guys' Guzzis . . . "

Nope. The Speedhut only bump their needles slightly on initial activation (nothing spectacular like the late model Guzzi's full sweep and full illumination). This is the recorded max speed displayed digitally while the needle sweeps up to show the retained measure.

Will do. Let me know if the one in MA/USA is still available. It is priced right and looks good.

This cleaned up decently. I wouldn't call it "as new." Maybe "as new with fifteen years of shop wear." It is the best of my three. I can pm you pics, if you like. Is this one still available in Massachusetts, USA? http://www.2040-parts.com/moto-guzzi-v11-sport-rear-fender-oem-gu01437030-i1367027/ Harpermoto lists them $52.50US. Not sure that means they are actually available?

This one should fit. I'll get it cleaned up this evening and see what kind of shape it's in. Came off a V11 Sport in California in 2003, so should be about as close to "like new" to anything we'll find.

Let me dig around and see if anything I have is any place close to "like new" . . .

I love my JoeK headguards. His brake lever is just too awkward for me to consider. The German piece (through MGCycle in the USA) shows some elegance, so I'll get one when (if) the silver comes available again. Anyone know who is actually building the German part?

The inner "hugger" or the hanging outer that mounts the license plate?

Here's to the pure entertainment quality of Speedhut gauges!

footgoose made an interesting observation that the early Sport (1999-2001) rear brake foot lever is about 5/8" shorter than the later V11s. This one came off a Rosso Corsa and looks to be 15mm longer than the original on my 2000 Sport. The measure from the pivot to the master cylinder plunger is the same. Looks like a little bend upward, as well: A couple years back, Scud pointed out that later V11 gear shift levers differ. At the time, I thought that was only about the mounting end because of the different subframe on "LongFrame" V11, but it seems likely that later foot shift levers are slightly longer to match the brake lever. MGCycle and Joe Kenny are both offering replacement rear brake levers. The MGCycle product is made in Germany, black or silver, to the longer, late model dimension. Not sure the length of the Joe Kenny piece. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=50&products_id=2795 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Sport-Rear-Brake-Pedal/352493164895?hash=item52123ad95f:g:HZMAAOSwCJxaFgng:rk:2:pf:0

So, indeed the Neutral Light and Low Fuel Light are separate circuits. Try grounding the Neutral Switch wire connected to the switch at the gearbox. Light comes on? Then it needs a new switch (assuming the connection is clean and tight and sealed with Caig DeOxit® or Vaseline®). Still no light? Yes, those bulb holders are weak. Most common issue with loosing the Low Fuel Light is where the two wires go into the sender on the left side bottom of the tank. If a wire is broken there, solder it and apply an epoxy the wires to the body of the sender.

Looking forward to how you find the Pirelli GT. They're my choice for the 2000 Sport, partly because "Pirelli" is just cool to say in the same sentence with "Moto Guzzi . . ."

Yes, Tom, my first two OEM regulators were replaced at about that same distance ( #1: 37,200 miles/ 60.000 km; #2: 34,600 miles/ 55.800 km). I then increased and improved the V11 Sport's grounding (and many other electrical changes!). Regulator #3 is at 37,400 miles/ 60.300 km. (all OEM type regulators). Lately, I have the Battery Light Flicker at idle after the battery is fully charged, but I understand this is more a matter of the reference voltage than a "bad" regulator. This idea of finding the best regulator for the V11 is excellent! Cheers, Tom! I lift a craft-brewed "Märzen-style" beer to your lovely home-brewed IPA!

What does the voltmeter say?

No charging + no tachometer could = 2nd ("Headlight") Relay. You have headlights, brake light?

All cool. Lots of others are running these fussy angle drives. I apologize for loosing track of the thrust washer in the heat of the moment. Thanks, again, to guzzimeister! I can't recall if anyone has tried using the later, black-face ITI direct cable on the white-face Veglia? Seems there were some issues with that. Realize there is an equal and opposite angle drive on the back of the white-face Veglia speedometer. Also, those late cables have a sharp bend to miss the throttle linkage (same purpose for the angle drive), and they tend to break cables there.