docc

Nope, never seen that before. (And I've rebuilt five or six of these angle drives.) That looks like a "replacement" part and not OEM?

That's true, yet, as it turns out, the TPS setting is what indexes the map to the throttle opening, so it is really only the baseline that is critical (with the throttle plate completely closed: no linkage, no stop screw, no high idle cam, no dirty bore). Then the idle setting can be anywhere the bike is happy to tick over (Guzzi says 1050 +/- 50, but my Sport seems "happier" a tick or so higher.) Meinolf tells us 157mV is the correct value (versus Guzzi's 150mV). I've learned to believe him.

Welldone, Drewteague! Thanks for posting the gallery! So, block both holes, not just one? How about a LocTite product on the set screws (instead of welding) so one (or both, even) could be removed later, if necessary? Also, worth noting on fork oil "weight" that SAE is not very accurate. One manufacturer's 5wt could be another's 10wt. The BelRay 5wt I like is 19.50 cSt (centiStokes). Peter Verdone has shared some good data on this more accurate viscosity measure: http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm [Hey, I edited posts #12 and 14 to clarify the year of manufacture 10th character in the VIN (W=1999, Y=2000). I don't recall any 1999 V11 in The States. While this is an aside to the thread topic, this is also how we learn and share. ]

Maybe different north of Milan?

Hmmm... my 2000 Sport was built 3-2000. Same axle (nutted). Tenth of VIN: W= 1999, Y= 2000 Not likely the customer’s V11 will have the earlier, steeper triple clamps. (edited after I got home and looked at my VIN)

Best regards to all-y'all, from Nashville, Tennessee, USA, in this season of Oktoberfest!

There were two different Marzocchi forks on the early Sport (1999-2001), on one: the axle is nutted; and the other: the axle threads into the left fork leg. These are all 43mm USD, as I recall. (there will be another part number in the system for the black finish on the 2001 Rosso Mandello. @Drewteague, can you confirm the build date (left headstock tag, month-year), 10th VIN character (W= 1999, Y= 2000, and the fork type (nutted or screwed in)? (I've never heard of a 1999 Sport in the US. So, it may have a couple other features that might inform your suspension set-up.)

Yeah, well, getting your advice on the internet from a guy who recently threw his driveshaft is sketchy in the least! You're right, the early Sport 1100 had no rubber cush drive in the rear wheel. I'm pretty sure that appeared on the 1100Sport-i (?) Apparently, the manual language about changing the driveshaft was a "cut and paste" from the Daytona which had no provision for shaft lubrication. At some point, I am going to remove the front half of my (original, 109,000+ mile/176.000+ km) drive shaft and disassemble the U-joint. It is going to be very interesting to see what condition it is in. If your play has changed of late, check all of those rear bearings and the reaction rod bushings.

Lately, I have been so thrilled with the Sport's corner entry and roll on because my previous "play" is virtually gone. Part of it was that I had let the shaft's pinch bolts (front and rear) get loose over time and the other major factor was the loose gearbox input hub that's been on the bike since gearbox warranty replacement in 2003. What a joy to have that all tightened up! I am uncertain about the acceptable rotational play, but mine does exactly what your video shows (if not more). At the South'nSpineRaid, danl put a dial indicator on several spine frame bikes and measured the radial (side to side/ up and down) play and found most of the bikes at 0.010-0.015". I believe he said his early Sport is 0.025". Another area to check for perceived driveline lash are all the wheel bearings, reardrive bearings and swingarm bearings. Also, the bushings in the ends of the torque reaction rod. BTW, the reardrive drain plug has a magnet on it. Don't be surprised to find "fuzz." (But no chunks, shards, or flakes! )

I'm due to repaint mine (again). The zinc chromate was fun, but I'm thinking satin back to obscure the silhouette effect of the horns and oil cooler. BTW, what is the little "tongue" extension that sticks down below the cover? (I think I'll leave it silver since it gets blasted the most.)

Yes, and yes. The cover is painted. And the eagle is glued on. They are bad about going missing.

Wow. Two veteran V11LM members, both from 2002 (Inaugural Members!) I so hope this works out!

Hm . . . tough question. The black voltage reference is at another connector on the left side of the frame . . .

That's it, buddy! Thank you!

Got a particular May date picked out?

There! Credit where credit is due, TomM! I seem to recall { } images of someone's actual hole block off . . .

Here's one of his posts discussing his approach. I thought there is a thread on this , but I'm not finding it . . . https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20247&p=228581

GuzziMoto is your man! Let me see if I can scare up his thread . . .

Uhhh, Docc.. you may have a problem.. This is no secret! Yep. Plug cap resistors have been changed out as well as the connection to the right coil. Resistance checked on the wires a few years back. How many years? Hmmmm . . . . A "few!"

It is hard to fathom that your ECU needs replaced. Worst case there would be to rewrite the map to it? Sorry, but is there still a PowerCommander in the mix?

Thanks, Marty! I still may fit new plug wires on my next Tank Off Maintenance, but the isopropyl alcohol did clean up the splotches, then I polished the original red wires with AutoGlym polish. Worked a charm! Polished plug wires!

My red plug wires are looking pretty ratty. Made worse when I sprayed the bike with SuperClean. Mistake. Well, all the engine finning looks great, but all the hard plastic and the plug wires got white splotches. So, does anyone have some wires where they can be measured? Is one meter long enough? I was considering this NGK product hoping the shade of red is compatible: https://www.ebay.com/p/7mm-Red-Silicone-Spark-Plug-Wire-NGK-Racing-Cable-1-Meter-for-ATV-Motorcycle/1362962591?iid=252329743437&chn=ps

I say "[battery]" because I could not keep stacking terminals on the battery itself, and built connector blocks for both the positive and negative battery terminals. Instead of fusing the headlight positive, I'm using an auto-reset 10 amp ATC circuit breaker.

Negative. My two headlight relays (lo and hi) are still in the bucket. The two (Bosch) relays you see in the image are my right and left horn relays. The horns (FIAMM Freeway Blasters) also get hot (fused positive) from the [battery] and ground back to those frame points.

I put my (2) relays in the headlight bucket. More challenging, perhaps, to pull a hot from the battery all the way to the bucket (tank-off project, routing , and making good contact to positive). I pulled grounds back across the steering head to the frame mounts for the (early V11) frame mounted fuel pump. Pretty sure those mount points remain on the later frames. Relays in the bucket showing where one of my connections eventually jiggled loose: Grounds x 2 (Headlight relays, lo and hi, plus ground strap frame-to-timing chest where my regulator is grounded. [far left. mid-image]: