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That is what I am after to extend the range of my Wi-Fi router to the new shop area!

I knew when I asked that I would be instantly in over my head. Anything beyond hammers and slip-joint pliers is out of my pay grade . . .

How did you perform this "extension," might I ask?

Would love some higher res images to get a closer look, but I spy an original Stucchi bikini - lovely piece of kit! Also, probably Mistral canisters, perhaps an aftermarket crossover?

The V11 sport/LeMans wiring suffers from tachometer issues because of Relay#2 (NO contact) and, on the early V11 (1999-2001) failure of the weak Relay#1 NC contact. Are there three relays on the Quota, or five like the V11 Sport/LM?

Is that a handlebar conversion? FWIW, I have gotten so much use out of Tekno panniers. Sure, along with my AeroStich they help make mySport look like a tarped-down heavy load . . .

Yes, they can be overtightened to the point the rubber is pinched and curls. Tight enough that they will not turn by hand. Shin-Etsu Grease is our friend! Any changes to the intake tract (intake rubbers, throttle bodies, valve adjustment) and the throttle body balance (complete Decent Tune-up, even?) should be performed . . .

Thanks, @MartyNZ, that was the post (by @dangerous) I recalled, but could not find . . . " thats my Polish friend ;-) Kat unfortunatly she parked that bike under a car... " I do not know how to interpret that statement. Did she survive this event? [edit: I restored the image links on that thread.]

I have looked and looked, but cannot find the discussion we had about this impressive lady rider. Any recollections, links, or insights?

Lucky, indeed: my (late) sister worked for Irwin Tool in account management. An era of fabulous birthday presents!

Thanks. I see M6-1.0 is most common. In fact the repair kit I have for our V11 sump bolts is M6-1.0. My tap-and-die set has both 1.0 and 1.25 pitch.

Bryan, the innkeeper, tells me Building 3 is fully reserved while rooms in 4 (above the garage), and 2 (above the gameroom by the pavilion) are still available. He is leaving the Basic Rooms in Building 1 available to the public (but y'all could reserve there, as well). Remember to specify a garage space if so desired. (It's where The Action is! )

I have never understood this. M6 fasteners can be 1.00 pitch or 1.25. Both are "standard", yet one is finer and the other coarser . . .

More Texas, y'all . . .

Just emailed my reservation request. I am reminded that a "Jotform account" is not required . . . The building and room layout is "less than intuitive." Building 3 is the "Premier Rooms." Building 4 is over the garage . . .

Those Bosch were decent relays. PyroDan sold them for a short time before going with the Chinese GEI. Yet, even the Bosch are under-rated for Position 5 (fuel/Ignition) and, on the early V11 wiring (1999-2001), Position 1 (especially the "5th pin"/NC contact). Failure of a High Current relay can be an indication of voltage spikes from a faulty regulator or/and the nefarious detachment of the yellow charging wires at the stator.

Another member sourced the High Current OMRON G8HE from China via eBay and found them to be legit. While OMRON no longer produces them, it is not unlikely that some resourceful Chinese company bought up the NOS from other suppliers and has marked them up. Not sure what the US dollar price is on US eBay, but ~22 Euro for four is not bad (depending on the shipping). Of course, the price doubles if you want to buy five, because of their packaging quantity . . .

Groundhog Day (halfway through winter) ride . . .

That is really good advice, @innesa. Unfortunately, the image in the original post is not visible in that format. Oil leak at the upper front of the V11 motor is so much more likely from the ratty breather hose than the oil cooler, itself . . .

I had not seen a CaliVin with the Eldo sidepanels. I like that!

Thanks, @Weegie. That is the same procedure I found in the Daytona manual (for the 16M ECU and not-sure-which TPS). The V11 Sport/LeMans TPS/15M ECU benefit from a more accurate setting, 156.3 +/- 5 Mv (pending the various factors limiting this degree of accuracy). The misleading statement in the V11 manual may have been simply carried over from the prior (Daytona) procedure (conjecture being investigated) and has led to various difficulties tuning the V11 TPS. I am curious if this (misleading, IMO) section from the V11 Workshop Manual [provided to us by @Speedfrog] appears in this form in any of the manuals for the previous generation Guzzi with the 16M ECU:

I do not see that exact phrasing in the 1993 Daytona Workshop Manual, but would venture that this is the origin of the (questionable) +/- 15 mV language that originates from the Daytona (16M) procedure: " For a more precise check. verify by means of a tester that between poles «a .. and «b" of the potentiometer :(3 and 2 on the connector)/here is a voltage of 150 mV +/- 15. with connector «A .. attached and the ignition switch in the "ON" position; loosen screws i,D·) (fig.93) and turn the body of the potentiometer (with the throttle completely 'closed) until the above value is obtained. This checking procedure is valid for all models having an lAW injection!ignition system. " No wonder so many V11 have suffered running issues with this procedure potentially indexing the 15M map so far off!

Oh, hey, @Gritman, you already have an album you can add images to! https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/gallery/album/139-the-babies33/