docc

Dude! Are you saying we're not professional ?!? (Heh - we're not . . . , just *enthusiastic!* ) What czakky sez. He knows of what he speaks! Don't let your V11 try to ground itself through the loom! [ I apologize for this, in advance, czakky! ]

Ok, buddy! It's Wednesday! How about it?

One of the things I learned in my tank volume test (besides how absurd the photo came out! ) is that, not only do these tanks trap fuel on the right side where the regulator returns fuel, but the front of the tank also traps fuel in the attitude shown on the sawhorse, but on downhill sections as well. Simplest issue for OP voycie might be that the tank just needs more fuel to reliably run the bike more than a few seconds.

Yes! I "tested" tank volume last summer; empty tank takes 19.5l -totally empty (pump inside) measured volume 21.7l = 2.2l in trap -quite a lot -KG- Fun with tank volume testing!

I've ridden with you, man. And watched you work through issues on your Sport for a good, long time. Don't shortchange yourself! You're a good rider and have the sense to know when to ask for help. Let's see what Don comes up with. The Fuse to the left of #6 is #5 (standing on the left side of the bike). That is not to the fuel pump. Fuses are numbered from front to back. Fuse#4 is a 10 amp to the Ignition Switch. Is it that one that gits kil't?

So, not just a valve adjustment, but you had the tank off? These tanks trap almost a US gallon of fuel. Make sure you double that volume of fuel at a minimum.

Fuse#2 (10 amp/ pump, ignition, and injection) powers Relay#5 (most aft). By "cheating the 5 am fuse", you are putting a 30 amp fuse in Fuse position #6? And that will blow Fuse #2? Also, do you use your Run Switch or just leave it on and only use the Ignition Switch?

Did the TPS come unplugged?

Heh . . .

So, those videos are certainly not v11 specific. That could get really confusing. Maybe the one on Mike's LeMans 1000 is the closest? No but they aren’t really all that different. 2V is 2V. What is so different? I guess I see a lot of 8v and even V7 (smallblock) in that first link. 8v would not be a good reference for the V11.

I've never used park mode. So if it's the ignition switch, this might show it? What is the 4 wt dipped lamp? I didn't notice it when I installed the LED headlight. Park mode on the ignition switch isolates the dipped light circuit through Fuse#6: Tail light, tag light, instrument illumination, and tiny 4 watt bulb in the headlamp bucket. No relay. The tiny 4watt bulb is easy to overlook in the headlamp. It is in the six o'clock position and glows yellow next to the LED's white-ish.

Fuse #6 ? What happens if you put the Ignition Switch in "Park" mode? Inspect/ replace your tail light bulb and make sure the connections (copper tabs) deep in there are not bent or touching. Second, remove the headlamp assembly and inspect the 4 watt dipped lamp bulb. Otherwise, the short could be in the instrument illumination. Those bulb holders are rather flinky.

So, those videos are certainly not v11 specific. That could get really confusing. Maybe the one on Mike's LeMans 1000 is the closest? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApQe8s2Xowk

Never thought of changing them out. I suppose they do wear out?

As in came loose? Fell off?

A manual petcock from the tank? It is full open?

Yes, Fuse#5 carries the warning lights, headlights, horn, etc, through Relay#2 (and Relay#1 on the early V11) Fuses #1 and #2 are a completely separate wiring harness. (Through Relays #4 an d #5). Common denominator here seems to be the Ignition Switch.

The faults in separate circuits make me suspect the Ignition Switch. They are not hard to inspect and service.

The headlight is on Fuse#5, not Fuse#6 with the Tail Light.

Dang, buddy! A rare image of a Silver Sport sitting still!

Good advice on securing grounds (especially the main ground to the back right of the gearbox behind the seat latch release!!) and servicing the ignition switch. There is this: the 5 amp Fuse #6 feeds the tail lamp, tag lamp, 4w "dipped" lamp in the headlamp bucket, and instrument illumination. This is stand alone circuit and goes through no relay. The oil warning light uses Fuse #5 with the headlights, horn, start, charge and the warning lamps (not the turn signal indicator) through both Relay#1/NC and Relay#2/NO (on our early Sports). The Fuse#6 circuit can be activated in the "Park" position of the Ignition Switch. What happens when you do just that with a 5 amp fuse in Position #6?

You know, it really would be nice if the "D" and "S" on the flywheel were paint filled. D = destra = right = "Dis side" = green (as with aircraft or marine vessel). S = sinistra = left = "Snot dis side" = red I'll have to get this done on my next valve adjustment. Thanks, LowRyter!

I would wager something is shorted. Maybe the tail light bulb or 4 watt "dipped" light in the headlamp. Sometimes, a broken filament will fall and make a short. When you say "dash lights" you do mean the instrument illumination, not the warning lights?

Sweeeeeet! Welldone, Sir!

Wow, good to hear of decent folks in the world who care. If it makes you feel any better I've been running over 100,000 miles with no plate. I have long kept my oil level topped up, and that "may have" pushed some of my oil leak history . . . Lots of folks swear by the plates. Pete swears routinely and eloquently like no other . . . He could have a retirement career training sailors in the craft . . . The plate makes sense. Pete does a run of them from time to time. If your going to fit one, get the genuine article.