docc

Does it smell like gear oil? That’s a pretty common area for the motor oil crankcase vent leaks to show up.

My 2000 Sport does not have a rubber plug there. Not sure how it is supposed to seal, otherwise.

Maybe somebody stuck a plug in that shaft hole if it were leaking? (I don't recall the Previous Owner history of your sport . . .) I do not recall how all of those points are sealed. O-rings inside the shift plate? Others know much more about this than I. (That image is from LuckyPhil's excellent Shift Improvement thread: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547

Whew! That's good to hear. I thought the out-of-focus part was just me . . .

The one at the very top, visible on the silver cover on the right? Yeah, what is that? It appears to be a plug over the shaft for the upper shift wheel, but no idea why the lower one doesn't have it.

That's a rally good connection to clean (electrical cleaner), crimp, and seal inside the boot really well with petroleum jelly (Vaseline®).

To clarify, you have replaced a twin-plate clutch (two friction plates, a steel intermediate plate, steel flywheel, and "push-button")? The push rod and input hub are held over from the Scura single-plater?

Could this be the issue? https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19621&p=218722

It is the tip, as I recall. Where it engages the "cup." From the link above: "I did get the end of the clutch push rod machined down at a local shop and everything engaged as it should."

DigiKey replied immediately. None of the alternatives are acceptable. The only one with the correct "Micro-ISO" terminal arrangement is only rated 10A/NC - 20A/NO. That is not the High Current the V11 requires in the critical positions. Like I said, get the High Current OMRON Micro-ISO G8HE relays while you can. Otherwise, who is running the Britax 35 amp relays?

Thinking back, I recall that both the gearbox input hub and the engagement of the pushrod differs between the single plate (Scura) clutch and the twin plate. Which input hub are you using with the new twin-plate clutch?

I emailed DigiKey. We shall see where this goes from here. Thanks, again, swooshdave, for the notice. For the rest of y'all having put this off . . . get 'em while you can!

Well, nuts. Looks like last call on the High Current OMRON relays . . . Thanks for the heads-up, Dave!

The bezel retaining the front glass can be carefully pried off a little at a time. I broke my glass doing it this way, but others have done it successfully. Another member cut the can with a Dremel-type tool with cut-off wheel and put the can back together with metalized duct tape. Good luck!

I'm thinking that may depend on which way The Spanking goes . . .

Goofman has the 1200Sport in some nice digs . . .

Belmetric is another great source for metric fasteners: https://www.belmetric.com/

More copper hammers? I'm in! Seriously, I never did build one of those cool leather covered panel mallets. But, found this shingling hatchet head at the son's new house left-over from the last roofing. Just had to restore it, re-handle and Shingling Hatchet Gauge . . . Gave me an education in setting shingle reveal . . .

Thanks for the discussion over the1200 Sport! Three out of four Moto Guzzi Sport:

Hope so, buddy! My oil leak was six things . . . but my V11 is an old tub . . . The "foot powder" method will help rule out the weep hole. On the "outside" of the bell housing are the mentioned O-rings and the crankcase vent hose. Of course the sump gaskets, but you already did those?

This good fellow says an axe is just a hammer with a blade. I want his ANVIL !

That can certainly be a source of oil that can show up at the back/ bottom of the sump, but there are others. The O-ring for the dipstick and the distributor blanking plate are a couple. They are detailed in that thread I linked. After the clean up, it would be helpful to see if that weep hole is dry (or not) at the back of the engine on the bottom of the clutch housing. There are some common leak sources inside there.

Our V11 will quite simply not run reliably on cheap, under-rated, Chinese relays. Seriously, folks: High Current Relays

You are a gentleman and trusted friend to say so. No question, then, that replacing your relays with High Current OMRON is next.