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LowRyter, you have all five High Current relays in place now?

For now, I'll leave it pinned, and open to posting, here in TechTopics. Hopefully, searches will find it most easily this way.

Pinned this thread in Technical Topics. Moved "DYNO GALLERY" to "Fileshare" . . .

And, once again, 700+ mile weekend and this 1200 Sport is spectacular!

Looks like plenty of room for porting&polishing!

I tried to archive this thread in FAQ, but the move failed after 469 posts (posts have to be moved individually. I ran out of beer three times . . .) I'm not willing to risk losing this thread, so aborted my attempt to archive it in FAQ. So, here it stays, in Technical Topics: One of the greatest threads, and greatest collaborations, in V11LeMans.com history!

More SoCal talk! We've seen what the girls wear to stay warm there, too. Like rear fenders on a V11, doesn't seem to take much . . .

Who you callin' a DipSwitch?!? (sorry, couldn't resist) . . . So, the Fuse 6 circuit, itself, could have nothing to do with running issues. Yet, I wonder if it could blow from an Ignition Switch fault. LowRyter, has the Ignition Switch been inspected on your Sport? [edit: I do recall someone here explaining to me that a Fuse cannot blow from a fault upstream (?), so unlikely the Ignition Switch blew Fuse#6. Most common cause has been pinched wires in the rear tail section/ fender area.]

While we, in the US, commonly refer to the Low Beam as a "dipped light", Moto Guzzi uses "dipped lights" to refer to the the "city light" circuit that does not go through any relays. Fuse #6 feeds the small 4 watt bulb in the headlamp (not the H4), tail light (not the brake light), tag light and instrument illumination. The Italian translation of "luce di positione" is "position light." It's what comes on in the "Park" position of the ignition switch, and what remains on when the "Euro" light switch is turned off. Ostensibly, if the headlight circuit fails, the bike would still have enough illumination to travel, albeit at very slow speed.

Being so given to the aesthetics ("in the eye of the beholder") of the motor, itself, it is hard for me to get past an ugly or awkward motor. When "the line between the lines doen't line up with the lines" a bad feeling ensues . . . While the MV Augusta impresses me as a gorgeous motorcycle, I honestly can't remember what the motor looks like. Plus, I grow uneasy pondering what it would be like to keep that MV roadworthy 107,000 miles over the better part of two decades.

I never could find my TPS fault with the millivolt function. Perhaps my Triplett meter just isn't good enough in that mode. I was able to see the *jump* watching resistance using the ohm meter across the TPS leads.

Did someone say "MV Agusta Turismo Veloce" and "aesthetically beautiful" in the same sentence?

My Sport would accumulate oil there when it was weeping from the bell housing weep hole. Clean it all up (including the back of the engine at the bottom of the clutch housing and spray it with foot powder, go for a ride and look at where the powder is discolored. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18243&hl=%2Bbell+%2Bhousing+%2Bleak https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=12253

The 6 amp O-Max charger has special algorithms for the Odyssey AGM. You can use an ordinary 6 amp charger for the bulk charge phase if you do not exceed 15v (temperature corrected). I was able to keep my PC545s at about 82% for eight or nine years that way. Even at 82%, the PC545 is an outstanding battery! BatteryMinder (among others) also makes an (EnerSys/Odyssey) approved charger.

Aero engine for unmanned drones?

I’ll have see if I can get the spring off . . .

OMAX-6A-1B ? There are others: http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_approved_12V_chargers.pdf

There is this business of "overcharging" (without discharging), Termed "Voltage Depression: (Wiki quote with embedded links): "Voltage depression due to long-term over-charging A common process often ascribed to memory effect is voltage depression. In this case, the peak voltage of the battery drops more quickly than normal as it is used, even though the total energy remains almost the same. In modern electronic equipment that monitors the voltage to indicate battery charge, the battery appears to be draining very quickly. To the user, it appears the battery is not holding its full charge, which seems similar to memory effect. This is a common problem with high-load devices such as digital cameras and cell phones. Voltage depression is caused by repeated over-charging of a battery, which causes the formation of small crystals of electrolyte on the plates. These can clog the plates, increasing resistance and lowering the voltage of some individual cells in the battery. This causes the battery as a whole to seem to discharge rapidly as those individual cells discharge quickly and the voltage of the battery as a whole suddenly falls. This effect is very common, as consumer trickle chargers typically overcharge." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Memory_effect

Sounds like fun but will I be shot if I show up on a Tonti? Bring beer! . . . and tools . . . You'll be safe!

Just today, I had to ride through water run-off on a gravel driveway. It slung something like wet cement all around. But not on my Öhlins. I have a "fender system" for that!

That is very tidy, indeed! "GOOP" (aka "SHOE GOO") is a toluene based contact adhesive that I've relied on a lot over the years. I just, now, retired a pair of Alpinestar riding boots after fifteen years, GOOing them back together numerous times. Not sure I would trust it to hold onto my license tag indefinitely, though . . . Pretty cool, V11 at > The Quail

Scud and Chuck, do you think this thread should pinned (but left unlocked) in "Frequently asked Questions" to ensure it remains visible for archiving?

Four months out . . . . trying not to dismantle anything on the Sport.

I have an original Sachs-Boge "on display." I can take some measurements for you. What are you looking for?

I would so remove the tank again and go through every accessible connector and connection with an eye to the coils and injectors. Open, clean, treat, and secure. The coils tend to fall from their mounts. Have these been seen to? (That won't stop the running by itself, but could aggravate the connections.)