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Everything posted by docc
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You California guys get the girls with all the skimpy 'kinis. Here in the land of rain and crap roads, I'm glad to be running my double-barrelled girl with waders and a Car-hart . . . (Full factory fender with inner panel, full factory hugger, plus "Edge Guards.")
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Just replaced my fifteen year old (!) Alpinestars, but cannot bring myself to pitch them in the trash . . . need a new helmet . . . what to do with all these old helmets . . . I visualize a Grand Hillside Helmet Roll . . .
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PO had to take the Mistral off due to snow-melt regulations . . .
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Updated the procedure in Post#1 adding links and restoring images. Trying to keep it basic and approachable while linking more information for those seeking more fine tuning, etc. Again, this is not the only way to tune a V11, and it is not "my" procedure, but a compendium of many different collaborators over the years. Thanks to everyone for contributing! Maybe it should be called the "Community Based Tune-up . . ."
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Makes total sense. I reread your posts and the plumbing is not odd as I first thought. As long as the two brass vacuum taps behind the throttle are connected to something (Capped, a tube between them, or to the vacuum canister(s). No light to come on with the V11 if the system is defeated. (Probably good to have the tank vent plugged into the canister, as well.) The manual's declaration that idle is set with "Vac gauges" is true, but a little misleading. It is the 6-step "Decent Tune-up" linked in Post#2. Steps 2 and 3 can't be skipped and expect the best outcome (TPS baseline and CO Fuel Trim). (Well, none of the steps can be skipped and expect the best outcome.) Once steps 1->5 are completed, you can set your idle anywhere you want with the small hex-drive idle stop screw(s). She'll just keep getting better and better!
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czakky, on 02 May 2018 - 7:34 PM, said: I do so much work on my own bike without adult supervision. I'm counting on you guys! Two take-aways from this thread: 1) The Nylon locking axle nuts probably last next to forever and will be fine if always torqued properly. 2) The Moto Guzzi listed axle washer for the rear axle of the early V11 is the same as the front and too thick for the rear application to engage the Nylon lock ring. The shown thicknesses are for replacement reference, if needed.
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Progress! Good news! My understanding is the the resistance through the TPS potentiometer should progress smoothly and evenly with no jumps or dips. I replaced mine with the much (much) cheaper Harley-Davidson part (Magneti/Marelli PF 4C) that has a different output curve (per our respected Meinolf), yet it has worked well for my purposes. (I also use hammers a lot . . . So, with the Right Hand idle stop screw defeated, you have reset your TPS 157mV baseline with the throttle plate fully closed? This step is critical as it indexes the throttle position to the ECU mapping.
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Yeah, "salvage title" I hear.
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Interesting color on an apparently rebuilt Sport: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Cafe-Sport/273188432812?hash=item3f9b4cabac:g:sAIAAOSwi19a6HuT&vxp=mtr
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That’s odd plumbing. As Chuck said, maybe “archive” that entire canister mess. It really is twenty feet of 1/2 inch fuel line. I measured it . . . What is attached to the vacuum taps on the intakes now?
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Funny, my Sport's RedFrame and Stilettos are "orange-ish." ("Italian Red") Your Tonti is a sweetheart!
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I feel better, already, being given to caring about these sorts of things. Nuts to you, too, gentlemen! There is nothing wrong with redundant systems in critical applications.
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Neutral light out, deploy side stand, bike stalls
docc replied to JBBenson's topic in Technical Topics
It will be obvious on inspection. All of of us should inspect the Ignition Switch wiring connections periodically. A certain "green wire" can come loose. Others, even? -
It's a shame they don't bring any money. And silver with a dash of red! Meraviglioso!
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That TPS "budge" from the regulator connection was a great find! I added it to the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist and watch mine carefully. I could not see my TPS fault watching millivolt changes while opening and closing the TPS. I had to disconnect it and read Ohms (I can't remember what scale: milliOhms?) When I saw it *jump* at the same opening point every time, I knew the TPS was shot. I have found fuel selection makes an enormous difference in hiccuping. I can no longer find non-ethanol fuel above 90 US Anti-Knock Index, but am having great results with US Shell 93 AKI "V-Power Nitro+". When I run other fuels, even at that AKI, I get more hiccups. (I am given to understand that US 93 =~ 98 Euro fuel?)
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Yeah, well, at this point . . . more like 1325 +/- 75. So, 1250-1400 depending on sooooo many things (ambient temperature, relative humidity, fuel quality, elapsed use since the last Decent Tune-up, phase of the moon, degradation versus restoration of oil viscosity, state of air filtration, hor-moanal imbalance . . . ) . . . some of those things are actually real . . . I just find my Sport stays much more stable, year-round, with the higher idle. Also, some tachometers read as much as 300-500 RPM high. Which could mean a 1000 RPM idle is really 500-700! Verify with Guzzidiag.
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Nice, man! And nary a hammer in sight . . . (the proctology gloves are a little disturbing, but I don't know much about Ducatis . . . )
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Inability to disengage clutch after twin-disc conversion
docc replied to slowkitty's topic in Technical Topics
Here is another account of the compatibility of the pushrod from craigsinclair, April 2017: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19621&p=218685 -
I fully agree, that's what surprised me as well, that it does not idle as nicely then. What do you call "a bit higher"? Also keeping in mind mine has a Centauro flywheel mounted when it was converted to a 2-plate clutch, which may have a lower centrifugal weight. Maybe I just have to re-set it using the "white knob method" and take her for a ride... Because in the end, how much time do you (should you) spend idling? Oh please, which are? I like my idle closer to 1350. With a lighter flywheel, a higher idle is a pretty simple way to smooth out the power pulses. Other than it sounding like it's idling a little high, I've never heard that a slightly high idle has any downsides. (I started out wanting my Sport to lope at idle like a big block Chevy V8 with a big cam . . . ) I chased a "hiccup" for about 10 years. There is a ten page thread that details the process of discovery. Over half of it is about discovering the best relays for the V11. Looking back, I'd say I was chasing "The Hiccups", maybe a handful of different things. In short: inadequate /under rated relays, incorrect TPS baseline, incorrect CO Fuel Trim (both covered on the "Decent Tune-up" procedure), a damaged TPS right at the point I wanted to cruise along, broken/corroded coil wire connection to the right coil, erratic voltage from a marginal charging system/ battery/ connections/ melting 30 amp fuse. Nasty Hiccup thread: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610 (lengthy) Decent Tune-up thread: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610 (detailed tune-up procedure) Best Relay thread: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605 ("answered" post) The Best Relays, Decent Tune-up, and TPS replacement were the key issues.
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Hey, GILPUTT! A good starting point is to perform the complete tune-up. While there are several ways to accomplish that, there is a step-by-step tutorial posted to achieve a "Decent Tune-up" that will baseline the important parameters and explain why these must be done before attempting to simply "set the idle." The Six Steps are best done in order, and none can be left out to get a complete outcome: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610
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Since the "white knob" actually sets the true relationship between the throttle plates, I cannot conceive that the throttle bodies could be in true balance any other way. Certainly, we can get the idle smoother using the air bleeds, even if the throttle plates are out of balance. Hence, the method of balancing the throttle bodies with the linkage (white knob) at "some RPM" closer to what we might be operating under way then "fine tuning" the idle RPM with the air screws to account for variances that are accentuated at idle. Also, I have found that setting idle a bit higher minimizes the idle stumbles and coughs. There are several other *hiccup* makers in the system to be considered as well . . .
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Makes sense, then, that the white wire got wet and that was my annoying, bright and erratic charge light in the rain? Once out of the rain it returned to normal until the next deluge. (Also trying to be certain that the trouble is not in my gauge cluster. In that case, my Speedhuts are doomed . . .)
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I ask about the connector because, 1) I removed the heat shrink from it before this ride to test the voltage drop at the black wire and didn't seal the connector as well replacing it, and 2) I admit don't really understand what the white wire does. The black one, I "kinda" understand.
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I've had best results at (about) one turn with the factory map. Meinolf's map is written for closed air bypass screws.
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There are those riding without them to no disastrous effects. When my Bitubo started leaking, I took mine off for a while, but didn't like the feel, especially in slow speed maneuvering. I replaced it with the Shindy (pronounced SHIN-juh) and like it well enough. I, too, keep it all the way backed off as too much damping contributes to the annoying high speed weave common to the early RedFrame sports. And nice black Sport, there, buellwinkle!