docc

Your friend sounds like an experienced and knowledgeable rider. He seemed to really enjoy the V11!

And for "Wire Rope", like our throttle cables?

Thats all you need on there docc. Also a light application of moly spray instead of the grease works fine. I apply it by spraying it onto a plastic lid or some other clean surface and applying with a 1/2" stiff short bristle paint brush in locations where I dont want any overspray. Or sprayed directly out of the can when it doesnt matter about the over spray. Let the solvents flash off for a nice even thin coat and assemble.Works well on clutch splines. Stays where its supposed to and doesnt attract cluch plate dust. Ciao Makes me hopeful. what I've been doing at every tire change for over 100,000 miles has been good lubrication, but I am weary of the mess.

I’ve ridden his Thruxton before. It’s narrower, feels lighter although it’s not by much. The brake doesn’t compare to the massive brakes on the V11. Handling is not bad (I went from a 2009 Bonneville to the V11 so have a good reference). The Thruxton handlebars are way shorter and the rearsets are actually further back (tank is a bit shorter). And you sit higher. Engine-wise the Thruxton is really smooth up to about 5k, then gets buzzy. And it really doesn’t feel faster the higher you rev it. My V11 always has a little vibration but I’m use to it. But from 5-8k the V11 is a hoot. What else can I tell you? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I heard you suggesting to your friend to get the V11 in the upper rev range. Good advice! "Coming onto the cam . . ."

I recall discovering that the BMW gearbox drive benefits from lubrication. I was afraid to put anything on mine for fear of splattering the clutch surfaces. Any lube that slings off the gearbox input hub goes straight to the friction plates . . .

Industrial art, indeed! It has been widely reported that keeping a spare (talisman) shift spring in the tank bag , or worn around the neck, has effectively warded off broken springs. A box of Super-Springs in the Tekno ought to extend an element of sanctuary to an entire SpineRaid!

I tried cleaning off the toothbrush (gonna need it in the morning! ) with CRC Throttle Body Cleaner, but the grease would NOT budge!

Here is the "judicious" application of Klüber Staburags with a toothbrush, and careful clean-up including "Q-tips."

Yeah, so this is so soupy . . . I have long been a BelRay Waterproof Grease fan. Maybe for the shaft and U-joints, but not on the drive splines anymore . . . This is 250 miles after a *copious* application (ask the drummer what "copious" means . . .

Speedhut time?

Cool! In striking distance to to Harrison, Arkansas? Ozark Arkansas Rally

Seems the idea is all about cushioning the drive line. I doubt it would impact the gearbox case cracks. That would be a ll those wild-eyed wheel stands!

I know I've said this before, but when you get you your spring rates right (and sags), the V11 becomes a glorious ride.

The suspension upgrade on my 2000 Sport is the Single Best Thing I have ever done to the Sport. At first, I thought I overdid the spring rate on the rear, but it has been fabulous. I always ride with my Teknos packed with tools and road repair load-out. Sometimes beer. Once the springs are correctly spec'd, get your "sags" set (adjust the preload) and I think you will find the handling gets even better. I like the front to sag just slightly more than the rear as I posted above. Works well with my Pirelli GT and 35/40 psi (front/rear). The only "downside", if there is one, is that the ride height came up noticeably with the new suspension. I'm still good with it, but it is higher than stock.

Nah. The Sport feels great right now. Yet, I have Traxxion dynamics springs spec'd for my weight and Öhlins shock. That surely has made the biggest difference (along with my sag selections:~30% front/ 25% rear. I suspect that if I changed the fork oil I *might* be able to tell a difference. It is, truly, overdue.

Well said. Seems the fork oil change interval is 12,000 miles/ 20.000km. I've been cheating on mine. As LowRyter sez, it is a bit of a PIA. Yet, I keep reminding myself, "This is what I do for fun!"

As MartyNZ said: The "Super-Spring."

So, not "100km", but 100K km: About 62,000 miles for us foot-bound Yanks, then . . .

Fresh oil is always good. It is just not so easy as an oil change. Especially on a Sport that all the clip-ons, and instruments, and headlamp/turn signals are mounted to the forks which have to come off to dump the oil/ "no "drain") Gotta tie her up. But, she digs it. No, really . . .

Other than the cost, I am hopeful that the Klüber Staburags will be more appropriate than the BelRay Waterproof I have been using. I feel like the BelRay has been effective as a lubricant, just messy. Largely because of my copious application. If not, then I'll score some Würth SIG 3000 and do-over. Is the Klüber Staburags truly comparable to the Würth Sig 3000?

I joined V11LM in Feb 2003, and Gio that May. Brings a little tear to me eye . . . I lift my glass in tribute to a fine fellow and his long devotion to the V11 Sport !

Aw . . . Gio! Oh, you're forgiven. Just don't stop posting here! You're a long-time, valued member of this community! Good luck with the sale and we know you'll recommend us to the new owner!

Looking for help interpreting my "reference voltage"/ "sense wire" on the factory type Ducati Energi regulator with 1999-2001 Sport-style wiring: Voltage drop to the connector is 0.10 volts DC. (My headlamps have a separate, dedicated circuit.) [static battery voltage cold: 12.80v; idle: 14.20v; "reference wire": 14.10v] What does this voltage drop mean to my regulator?

"REPARTO SPERIMENTALE," indeed!

Here you go, Tom: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20329&p=230900 Thanks much to Meinolf for the reply!