docc

Look for GL-4 and GL-5 ratings. The "ShockProof" products don't have the GL or "weight" ratings, as I recall. The gearbox will go on GL-4, but the bevel boxes get GL-5, *from what I understand* . . . Beware of overfilling!

It occurs to me that there are a couple really common causes for the relay base wiring to fail. Certainly it is heat and resistance, but more specifically, we have learned that typical relays rated 10/20 amps NC/NO are inadequate for positions #2 and #5 on all V11 and also position #1 on early V11. Under rated relay contacts are going to create excessive, damaging heat. The connections themselves will corrode and degrade over time also increasing resistance and heat. The good news? Collectively, we found those High Current OMRON and learned about tightening the relay bases and using Caig DeOxit. All good stuff! Well done, gentlemen, all around!

Glad all is well. I kept meaning to post, before cash1000 rode very far, that if there is no headlight, no tachometer, and no horn, there would likely be no charging either. Good on ya, Marty!

I have said that about the Veglia being off. Some of them even more. Check yours with guzzidiag, at idle and at *some* RPM. Seems to me, it is the valve train that is the limiting factor for "red line." Since your valve train doesn't appear changed, I would not feel confident exceeding the factory redline. Which Megacycle cam do your have (there are several)?

Well then . . . just enjoyed an 8 year old Lagavulin (just as leaky!) Seems that if we would like 12 or 16 year old Scotch, the Scotsmen have to be handsomely rewarded not to drink them in the meantime!

Yeah, I was just reposting the questions from that other thread, since no one on that on chimed in with actual cam experience either. From the numbers (cam lift and duration specifications), it looks like you would need to go to the 620-10 to get more cam than stock. I like what Ed Milch was quoted as saying: "Ed Milich who races guzzis wrote me that no straight drop in cam is worth the hassle."

On the Best Relay thread, there are four or five 2002 V11 wired through the Ignition Switch (rather than the NC contacts of Relay#1). So, looks like petcock changed with the wiring in '02?

Is the original question the same, or similar, to the final question in the *other* cam thread? "Now, the question remains: Why not cam a V11? My take is that the V11 (1064 Sport) cam is very well optimized for the bike, but surely there are those here who have changed the cam. If so, to what?"

Seriously, buddy: High Current OMRON (get a full set): http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605 Certainly critical in positions 1, 2 and 5 in your case.

Here you go: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5691 Is it the 8th character is R for the early frames and S for the later? In that case, all LeMans would be S?

Care and feeding of a V11 on New Year's Eve:

aww, shucks. I think I may have only ever done a couple things at all meaningful. There was that photoblockit thing. And the time we got lingpingpinged. Otherwise, you guys are the best. There is no doubt, without this community, I really probably would have just a 1/6 scale Guzzi by now. And some pictures of the Sport "I used to have" on the wall. + = +

Ya made me look . . . found a winner: Some assembly required! https://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/builds/it/build_it_4513.shtml

You obviously need another Guzzi. What do you think I'm squirreling away all my Moderator pay for? (Well, once I pay off these two bolts plus shipping-from-the-frikkin'-moon).

Oh, this is a *must-have* for any tried-and-true V11-er. Even if it only hangs on the tool box. by the hammers.

Interesting the Ducati wheel is not much lighter (including its brake rotor?) It occurs to me, now, that I weighed the brake rotor with the wheel, but not the caliper or its bracket.

Heh, right? We're getting your arctic blast starting tonight. As it turns out, The Sport's 100,000 mile downtime is going to total almost three months. But the first half was during the stinking South'n summer heat, and now while cold. Like I said before, you know you love your bike when she still looks gorgeous taken apart on the lift . . . Plus, she took me to another SpineRaid in between.

Maybe cash1000 could clarify things in the original post that look, to me, like rev counter/running issues that are independent of the horn: "Sometimes the rev counter may not go at all." "When the rev counter doesn't go the motor will occasionally briefly cut out." "When the motor is idling the rev counter may indicate zero revs but if you apply some revs the rev counter will go."

@stewgnu, looks like the new axle is a few thousandths under the original at the steps. The tightest fit is at the end steps where the axle seats in the swingarm. There was plenty of moly on that axle from the leaks! (I have always wiped it with BelRay Waterproof grease on installation. I cleaned up the flattened threads that the knuckle-dragger (me) munted, but they didn't come up sharp. I'll just wait for my four bucks worth of parts and re-use the Schnorr washers. Looks like no riding 'til next year . . .

Certainly, simple enough to disconnect the horns and observe any change. The horns, and horn connections are *out front* in the "spray and weather."

The OP posted these two RevCounter behaviors, independent of the horn: "Sometimes the rev counter may not go at all. When the rev counter doesn't go the motor will occasionally briefly cut out." "When the motor is idling the rev counter may indicate zero revs but if you apply some revs the rev counter will go." Back to asking the OP about Relays 1 and 2 . . . otherwise, we are going down the Grounding Rabbit'ole . . .

wow, level, dad !

Beautiful! Good thing that flat black absorbs all the heat in the surrounding atmosphere!

Don't make the big, gold lady spank your bacon slicer!!