docc

It's in the "rear drive seal" thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15908&p=228004 I knew this could happen (crossing a pinch bolt on reassembly), but did it anyway while pre-fitting on the bench. Maybe better to pre-compress the collar with a clamp or in the vise?

Desperate. Finally cancelled my order after a month and ordered the two shaft pinch bolts from somebody else.

This is the kind thing that goes on when the Sport gets stranded on the lift. In another thread, there was a post remarking about the weight of the V11 rear wheel and rear drive. Might have been a shock thread, or maybe a build thread (?): " . . . think of how much work the shock has to do just with the unsprung weight . . . the whole thing must weigh close to xx." (or something to that effect.) So, using a bone fide Fairbanks-Morse Physician's Scale, here is what I found: (early V11) 4.5" rear wheel/ Pirelli GT 160 (1/4 life left): 35.5 pounds / 16,1 kg Reardrive/ posterior shaft half/ axle/ fasteners 21.5 pounds / 9,5 kg Gear oil (370 ml Redline SP-Lightweight) 0.9 pound / 0,4 kg 57.9 pounds / 26,3 kg Obviously, the later 5.5 inch rim will be heavier, as will 170 or 180 tires as well as other tire types. You can always lighten it up like I do using sawdust instead of gearoil. Cuts down on those pesky leaks, but be sure to use only Western Cedar (or Eastern Red Juniper, in a pinch). Gives off a lovely pine scent above 100kph . . .

Bingo ..... GuzziMoto is on it . Your fork won't build pressure because of the holes he's speaking of which effectively defeats the purpose of a cartridge fork . If you don't do anything else to improve the damping then the heavier oil will help. So, I see where Guzzi Moto says " . . . and running lighter oil . . . " , yet there are those of us who found running a lighter oil even in the factory set-up is advantageous to attenuating the harshness somewhat. None of this will give you any real satisfaction if the spring rates aren't right.

Testor's definitely makes a good match for the early Sport bright red (Testor's Italian Red), but that's not the same as that satin on the Tenni. I tried the nail polish thing and probably only succeeded in getting watched on WalMart's security cameras while I sat in the floor on that isle for far-too-long . . . Will local autobody suppliers do a computer analysis and mix a small volume or even an aerosol can?

This is one of the reasons I like *graphs*, not >tables On a graph, the line would remain the same showing full State of Charge in vDC versus Ambient Temperature. Both temperature scales could be overlapped on the Y-axis. I looked, and looked. And looked more. But could not find such a *graph*. It has to be for AGM/ VRLA. And for "State of Charge" or even OCV (Open Current Voltage) even though those two things have nuance differences. All voltages (SoC, OCV, Charge Voltage, Float Voltage) should be temperature compensated.

I google and use this conversion tool: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-ab&biw=1280&bih=705&ei=-_k8WpGdAoPNmwHwiIqQCw&q=celsius+to+fahrenheit+conversion&oq=celsius+to+fahrenheit+&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0l10.17760.17760.0.21402.1.1.0.0.0.0.87.87.1.1.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.1.87....0.LxjfHIo47DQ

Looks like State of Charge voltages for the AGM are about 0.1 volts lower at that temperature (ie: full State of Charge at ~24ºF/-4.4ºC = ` 12.7v): At that temperature, observe how long it takes to statically discharge to ~12.55v, then discharge and charge with proper voltage/amperage. It's nice when these batteries will hold above the charge threshold for weeks, but I would not expect months . .

The Giovani Burlando video is an absolute delight !

Truly! Repeat when the battery drops to 12.65v at 77ºF/25ºC. What's the ambient temperature where the battery is?

A lighter fork might give you faster, more responsive, high speed damping. Getting the right springs will make the biggest difference, though.

Should be fine . The original vents would have had a double loop cadmium plated bracket on the back of the gearbox. Otherwise, zip-tie to the oil return line at the back of the engine oil sump.

That's a great value for a new Veglia, even with shipping overseas. I would specify that the packing be substantial and double boxed. Perhaps even waiting until the worldwide Christmas season shipping crush lulls . . .

You can see each of the two nipples looking up under the tank from the front to the inside of the cylinder heads. They're about halfway back in the tunnel. Take a peek.

You guys amaze me!

Yeah, man. Look up under the tank at the two "nipples" pointing down and forward about mid-tank. Should be what looks like "vacuum lines" on them. What do you see?

Recently, my Mac burp-graded to "High Sierra." Always lots not to like (in general). Overall, I favor the OSx about a thousand-fold over my office M'soft Windoze. Haven't tried to connect Mac High Sierra with guzzidiag since the Up-burp. Anyone has?

LowRyter, What is on those two underside tank nipples? Two lines joined together?

Man-oh-man! I watched this vid before, but what a great watch! Something about shaping your motorcycle with *colorful* language! And: it's *silver* . . . (did ya notice: *silver* . . .)

luhbo sez: these boys is hepcats:

Yah, check out what hepcats these is:

Check your float voltage with a quality voltmeter. Is it 13.5-13.8?

That co-joined hose is the tank vapor vent from the underside tank nipple on the right. It has likely been joined by a connector to the left side tank overflow/water drain and does exit ("slash-cut" small tube) behind the sump (in front of the swingarm (Zip-ty"ing to the oil return there is good). The in-line one-way valve has probably been removed along with all the vapor recovery system (charcoal canisters"). I don't recall these overflow/vent lines shown in any of the diagrams. The US versions may have been added on these shores. I say this because, when "I found mine" on the shop floor, there was twenty feet of 1/2 inch fuel line (used for the recovery system) all marked "Made in the USA." No, really: t-w-e-n-t-y feet!