docc

So . . . AGM batteries have unique requirements to properly charge and maintain well their State of Charge (SOC). There are a few simple principles that appear to stand up to AGM practice and the manufacturer's recommendations: >Bring the battery to a full SOC using at least 6 amps, 14.7 volts. Do not exceed 15.0 volts. (Temperature corrected). >With a temperature corrected charger, the battery can be "floated" at 13.5-13.8 volts. Not less. >The batteries benefit from discharge, then charging. But should not be allowed to statically discharge below 12.65v. >Always discharge before charging, starting, or checking the SOC. > This one straight from Odyssey, "Performing more than one discharge and recharge cycle is beneficial to increasing restored capacity. " In other words, *don't just leave it on the trickle charger* and expect the best results. Especially if that trickler has low voltage (less than 13.5v) and low amperage.

I don't recall those chargers being on Odyssey's Approved Charger list . . . (Assuming you are using a Hawker Odyssey.)

Fortunately, there is a P-51 in the mix to give you a by.

Fixing stuff is part of the fabric of Guzzisti.

It only takes a couple pages to find out nobody knows how the coils are wired . . .

I see today would have been Bruce's birthday. What a dear guy. Sure do miss him

While you're at it, these two threads are compilations of quite a few of the common issues that have turned up on V11 over the years: Tank Off Maintenance Checklist Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist Enjoy! :luigi:

Looks to be mineral based, so okay for around the points (no silicone to form silicon dioxide/ *glass* on the points !). Plus, "Its good wear protection properties are enhanced by the barium complex thickener." That may be all the food-groups, right there!

Should I *polish* that "coated" axle before installing?

Yours is the better description. also, what gstallons has said. Best to divide the starter from the battery. Then test the battery fully, before delving into all the intermediate switches, relays, and connections. Even a "new" battery "charged" can be less than perfect.

Scratch&Sniff tested?

Look at the image brubache posted in Post#5. You will see the solenoid just above the starter motor, looking from the back. The large top connection is the (+) battery cable. Jumping that (full voltage from the battery!) to the "spade terminal" should turn the starter. Watch yer eyes: there may be sparks! All of those connections benefit from cleaning (take apart, scrape, sand, spray contact cleaner), and sealing (Vaseline®, or Caig DeOxit®) and tightening well. It helps to remove the cosmetic starter cover and, perhaps, the remote shock adjuster to get to all of that. Most of these issues end up being *connections*, voltage, or *relays*.

That's one of the exact things I got the new hunnerd-dollar axle to see to! So, take it to the wire wheel?

The spade terminal at the solenoid is also the place to test a jump wire to from the battery (+) or even the starter end of the (+) battery cable. If the starter spins up, the trouble is not the starter, itself, nor its solenoid. Easy test.

I don't know how to tell the difference. Plating makes more sense. Champing at the bit for the two pinch bolts. Kinda surprised they're taking so long . . . I guess I got spoiled when all 43 of my clutch and oil sealing parts came in less than a week.

Bill needs a hug.

Looks to be. No idea why. Just for the long term storage?

This is not so artistic as the images on bruache's link, but I manage to scroll through and ponder . . . (Don't let this give you any ideas!) https://bringatrailer.com/

Now I'm havin' trouble feelin' sorry for ya. Ya had me goin' there, for a while . . .

Mine never came out this hard before. It was definitely damaging as a metal shard came out with it. Not sure what that came off of. Gad to have a replacement reardrive on hand as well as the fresh axle.

This last time out with the old axle took quite a lot more than the usual wiggling and supporting of the wheel/tire. It was really hung up and took a wooden drive to get out. Certainly one of the reasons I decided to replace it. It seems that the only bearings that ride on the axle the center bearing of the ring gear and the wheel bearings. Well, and the outer needle cage that does not spin.

As far as I know, the Tenni "suede" seat is the only "unique" seat to the V11 series. Seat pans changed, but the black cover is, otherwise, ubiquitous. (As I write this, I do recall the very last of the series, the Scura R, had a red seat cover.) Yet, at the time the 2002 brochure was written (and roughly translated from the Italian), the only comparisons were the early Sports, the Rosso Mandello, first gen Scura, and the 2002 LeMans (all black seats).

So . . . yep, the new axle is "stepped" as well. Maybe not as deeply as my well-used one, but in all the same places. Well then, replacing it is not likely to contribute to any solution. Still waiting on the drive shaft pinch bolts . . . The new axle is driven by a 14mm hex. The original is 10mm.

Do I see a matched pair of Rosso Corsa at 1:20? :mg:

Hey, chamberlin posted quite a few original brochures in our "fileshare" subforum. Here's the post with the Tenni brochure: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18360&p=199425 " . . . an imitation leather unique saddle . . ." certainly refers to the brown.