docc

Evidently, if the main ground / earth / negative battery cable to the right rear of the gearbox is not well maintained, the electrical system grounds itself back through the (too) small wire in the loom.

I don't recall anyone actually finding the check valve ball on a V11. Mine does not have one. Others have reported the same.

The infamous V11 "Smokin'-Hot Alternate Ground Path" . . .

Alas, if there were a modern mid-size NTX. Or that 3 cylinder diesel military bike I keep telling Moto Guzzi to build . . .

Still hoping Fred in the shed will chime in. I hope it's all cool I moved the thread here (24/7 V11). I have left the other thread (in Motha of All V11 Forums)to link here (for now).

Somehow I missed that you guys are riding from the PNW to Alabama on two Nortons, a Guzzi, and a Tool Box - er, I mean "Brick." I guess I thought you were flying to B'ham and renting an RV to stay in . . .

Still nothing for the clutch slave?

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20151&p=225684

Well, I've had the warning light give me fair warning when one of the yellow wires from the stator had broken. Enough warning to travel toward home almost fifty miles where I could be "collected." (still fifty miles from home). The only other complete charge failure I've had was a blown 30 amp fuse (from a loose positive battery terminal connection). That one, the light and poor running both appeared suddenly. Maybe two-three miles later, I was stranded. Started carrying jumper cables after that.

I like the voltmeter idea, including the LED indicators. I wish either Garmin (GPS) or Speedhut (speedometer) would understand that voltage is an important parameter to display on a motorcycle. I decided to check some grounding under the seat since I had the battery out for a while recently while doing the clutch-and-such. Negative battery terminal took maybe an 1/8 turn to tighten. Everything took a little on both sides (I have junction blocks with additional connections on both sides.) Loosest was the ground to the ECU case. I think that "vibration isolator" mount has come apart again. But I got the ground terminal good and tight. I'll know in the next week if the flicker quits (since it has been intermittent). Hubert, thanks for helping me focus on the harness and connections! Hopefully, these simple tightening procedures will make the difference!

An ADV thread sounds great! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20154

To complicate matters, it doesn't do it every time. I've not noticed it on start-up, only coming home. I've been planning to add a dedicated reference wire from the battery and stop taking it from the headlamp circuit as my headlamp has dedicated harness of its own.

Yeah, I wish that product had voltage parameters for the AGM (those voltage breaks are fine for a flooded lead-acid battery). 13.2vDC just doesn't cut it. I look at it as a charging failure indicator, not so much as an indicator of max charge voltage. If the system starts to get weak or just quits and voltage drops below 13.2, I will still have some capacity left in the battery. That might give me a chance to pull some lighting fuses and make it home, or at least get closer to home. Or if I'm running heated gear and it's too much for the system I will get a warning before the battery is too low to start the bike. Hm . . . interesting. We're coming into heated gear season here. I'll have to plug in the 77 watt jacket and see what the flicker flicks!

Yep, I keep my AGM "pre-conditioned." The dim warning light is new. While the battery seems fine, I wonder what has changed to flicker this light at idle.

Actually, it looks like my "Warning Light" is telling me the truth already! The AGM only actually charges above 14.2 vDC . . .

Yeah, I wish that product had voltage parameters for the AGM (those voltage breaks are fine for a flooded lead-acid battery). 13.2vDC just doesn't cut it.

Aye. and every pipe takes a different course. Must sound like a symphony!

While you were away: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5556&p=225235

I just wanna hear those eight pipes blowing their tune . . .

Not a V11, but oh-my-my! http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-Moto-Guzzi-8C/222660427662?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Greenie in Billings, MT, USA: http://www.ebay.com/itm/332394479810?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

I have such a modified electrical system, I don't know if what I have going on will be helpful. But, I could use some guidance understanding why the light flickers while the voltages look good.

Yeah, yeah. Gonna have to take up a collection and send Kiwi_Roy another v11 . . .

That could be it! See, it worries me that the inside of my high-zoot, aircraft grade 30 amp charging circuit breaker could use a spritz of Caig DeOxit. It's one f the few points that has not been *treated*. What triggers that light? The regulator itself?

Quickest way for the clutch to get oil fouled is one of the forward gearbox seals to fail. Take your starter off and clean out that cavity with a high flash point solvent. (and all the cautions that go along). It'll all run out of the *weep hole* at the bottom of what we hot-rodders call the "bell housing." Then use gstallon's "foot powder" method to watch for any other leak points. There are a bunch of them!