docc

*Star* washers are good medicine for [ground] connections. And Vaseline® (or your favorite generic petroleum jelly). Check, also, your 30 amp "charging/regulator" fuse (#3) for signs of heat damage, burning, melting or otherwise not sustaining the current load. As well as the main gearbox case ground and battery terminals.

Does "Tourist Trophy" count as a place? Or is that an event?

AH! I knew I recognized those googley eyes and that silly grin from somewhere!

Nope. I try to keep my side stand well fettled. After the flipper-bail/ wire lever thingie let go (again), I fitted something rude to solve that problem once-and-for-all. Scanning torque specs (yeah, I stay up late sometimes . . .), I saw that spec for the "side stand support plate" and was impressed with the value (70-75 Nm). Mine might have been 50, but 70-75Nm is pretty high torque.

I noticed the large, upper bolt into the timing chest is referenced in the Workshop Manual torque specifications: "Fastening screw for side stand support plate: 70-75 Nm" Mine was tight, but not that tight!

If you remove the pads. Then in the OE tool bag there is a large allen key that just slides into the pad crevis along the disc path. You can then pump the pistons out and know they won't pop out. You can then get at al the exposed circumference for cleaning. Becareful compressing each piston back in that you don't pop another out.If you need new pads, I am pleased with Renthal BP-507 and BP-511 on the back. The ceramic backing inhibits heat transfer from pads to fluid. Prior, I used to suffer rear brake failure from over heated fluid quite regular on track and occasionally on spirited road riding. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk I only use wood blocks for that purpose Cab,but I will revisit cleaning them,I did a full cleaning 6k miles ago so probably due....Thanks

Best to push the pistons out - > spray clean, press back in, block piston travel - > clean one piston/ retract - > repeat for all eight front pistons. Quite fiddly, but worth the effort!

It would be quite something to actually see a Dondolino next to a Centauro and a Gambalunga/lunghino next to a V11. Pretty amazing the designer went back fifty years for the inspiration. Luciano Marabese

The lock cylinder is not the issue. When you remove the electrical switch from below, you can take it apart and find the contacts. Clean, and "lube." Open the switch by releasing the small retention tabs around the circumference of the housing. Other issues with "intermittent loss of power": > relays* > battery voltage and terminal connectivity > grounding > sidestand switch and its under-tank connector

*okay, I see the original clip-ons are included. (I know of someone who would be very interested in those.) The exhaust canisters appear to be the original MG accessory cf cans made by Mistral. May have the early "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY" tags. It would be nice to see some pics with the tank bag off. The tank mounted is an original paint Sport tank with chin pad? BTW, this is an excellent find and worth some serious consideration! [iMO]

Yes. The guys on Wildguzzi said to post here also in that you folks could give me more info. Ain't that just sweeter'an honey pie. Any hope that the original foot controls and clip-ons might be in the mix?

Right? A Magni faring complete with green glass, mirrors, headlamp, and turn signals. Not sure about mounting brackets. A couple reference images from the cl ad:

Notably, this nice old Moto Guzzi is the Dondolino (not Gambalunga, as the caption suggests). In an interview with Luciano Marabese, he stated that the Centauro took its inspiration from the Dondolino and the V11 from the Gambalunghino.

Actually Kiwi_Roy's "Installing Speedhut Gauges" in "How to . . ." has several contributors that shared their Speedhut outcomes. Sadly, there is some PhotoBlockit damage to the image content: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19038&page=1

So, >Yes on the gearbox recall. As extensively as that V11 has been looked after, I would think it likely that was aslso seen to. I believe Piaggio, or your local dealer, can confirm that was performed. >Price seems fine for all the kit that comes with it. Assuming that is the kit you're looking for and it's all expertly done. > If I were taking on a bike this old, low miles or not, I would plan for a period of fettling and sorting. >Tach could be as simple as a relay (look for other lights or electrical thinks not working), grounding, or internal to the tach. >Worst oil leak on the early Sport would be a crack in the left rear gearbox case mount spilling gearoil down the left side behind the starter. Also, leakis appearing at the lower weep hole of the "bell housing" are involved to get to. Rear drive leaks are not uncommon, but the silver engines don;t get as many timing chest (front of the engine) leaks as the black crinkle engines. > Use eclipse glasses when viewing early green Sports lest ye go blind.

Is he camping? Ok, ok . . . that was a January ride a few years back. The frost was a (beautiful) surprise. The salted roads descending from the Cumberland Plateau? I didn't think the Sport's fasteners would ever recover. The best of it? This is how you get 167.000+km/ 100K+ miles on your V11. Ride it anyway!

Pretty sure I'm the one going to school there . . .

Looks like TechTime at the SSR will be lively! After all, this is what SpineRaids are for. "Jeez, docc, what's that all about?"

All good. Let us know how your connection goes.

thanks, kit on the way! Let's all realize that is the two cables to connect guzzidiag, but does not include break-out harness to baseline the TPS. *three cables to rule them all*

I rode the bike a few times after I bought it and before I took off the tank to start doing the 12K maintenance. The low fuel light did in fact turn on, then it turned off, and back on. I think it is affected by the fuel sloshing around in the tank (on a hard and fast stop the light turned off). When I drained the tank I would say there was still about a gallon and a half of fuel still in it. Does that sound right? The low fuel indicator goes on at 1.5 gallons remaining? So, yeah, that all sounds right. There is close a US gallon trapped on the right side of the tank. the light begins to glow faintly with about 0.8-1.0 US gallon available to the left side petcock. Going uphill, leaning right, or applying throttle will extinguish the light. I watch my fuel odometer as an indication that the low fuel light will begin to make *suggestions*.

Total conversion to twin plate? What about the gearbox input hub?

Yeah, mon: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19641 And must have the correct cables: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19612&p=213372

Seriously: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20071&p=223768