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Parts Manual, Page 21, specifies and O-ring : 90706116 It appears the O-ring is not for the petcock, itself, but for the mounting flange. Same O-ring for the fuel level sensor's mounting flange.

Truly. That and servicing the battery terminals and the main ground connection to the right rear of the gearbox. This one:

That line from the petcock has to be at least 12 mm. The rest of the fuel lines are smaller, high pressure lines. I used 5/16" (nearly 8mm), but they were awfully tight. I suspect those may be 10mm?

With the Sport back roadworthy, I finally got the chance to listen to these great vids. Thanks, LowRyter!! TTB has to be the best rockin' blues stage band since the hey-day of Lowell George's Little Feat and the Tower of Power Horns. It's so cool to watch Jack move from a guitar duet with Susan Tedeschi to a bass solo with the drummers! What a talent!

So.... if you let the bike idle from a cold start for 5 or 6 minutes at 1000-1200 rpm, that's 6000 total revs before it clears up. If it does this after every start, then it might run pretty crappy (too rich) on a warm or HOT start. I just pull away once she cranks up, keeping revs below 5,000 until I feel the oil is warm (maybe 6-8 miles). I never notice crappy running on hot start. In fact, she sparks right up And install High Current Relays! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605 All of the above! [got'yer Decent Tune-up rat'cheer): http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610 Aye, bringing all the various parameters into spec will likely put you in the mid-30s mpg (or better). Unless someone has done some creative modifications (deleted the airbox or unhooked the right side head temperature sensor), or the air filter needs a serious service to take the mouse nest out.

The forks are not difficult to take apart, once they are out of the triples. First challenge will be how to support the bike solidly. A factory stand and a platform jack work great. The factory Workshop Manual has decent detail on the forks. If you are going to remove the cartridges by removing the bolt from the fork bottom, there is a set screw that inserts from the inboard side of the lower body that is NOT depicted in the manual. It will look like a little detent, but cleaning it out will show you a hex in the hole. Agreed that the cleaning method is worth trying since you can do that on the bike. Still, the forks will probably benefit from an oil change.

Aw, man, feels GREAT! Even with all the worn teeth, the noise at idle is minimal. With the LuckyPhil/Chuck-made Shift Extender® in place and everything clean and fettled, plus the replacement slave ( that Scud got from Unkept's V11 and sent to Andy), the shifts are so crisp and quick. 120 miles today through the hills and along the creeks. Felt great! First time out, another foot bail let go on the sidestand . So, I repurposed the failed clutch input hub retention washer . . .

Yes on the heat shrink and non-pressurized line. The only thing special is the heat shielding. I shortened mine considerably to the minimum run length to get it away from the cylinder and head.

After eight weeks on the lift, it was nice to find the Sport some respectable V-twin company!

Man, that's all the food groups right there!

I just made one up (my third) from some aircraft-looking high pressure blue line that Carl Allison sent me years (and years) ago and transferred the stainless braid from the original line. Don't throw away that original braided shielding!

I learned to snap up this guy's prose when I have the chance: "Somehow, though, the challenge of riding a more analog machine is more romantic . . ." czakky, August 2017

Is it for the intake air temp sensor on the airbox? Yeppers! Marty makes 10 points.

My clever, tidy set-screw idea finally gave way to an "index screw" on the tach to stop it rotating.

Yeah, well, in an effort to measure accurately the trapped fuel I accomplished a couple more things. For one, I'm surprised how much fuel gets trapped in the front of the tank in the attitude shown above. I remember running out of fuel going downhill once and was surprised how she started back up on the flat. The difference in fuel flow going uphill versus down is quite substantial. Also, I made the mistake of reusing some of the fuel I poured over from the right side. Apparently, it was full of 17 years worth of silt and almost immediately plugged my new fuel filter. So, all new fuel lines, clamps, and another new filter.

Wow, how many Go_Winkies is that thing gonna need in ten years?

Might want to also put it in the classifieds section. Not everyone checks this thread. Love to see some pics of this one. Looks to be an '04 red Sport. Here ya go: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20078&p=223917

Go_Winkie do-over upgrade:

I've been hoping we'd get a closer look at the bike in the avatar! Plus, it answers the question, "What happens if you leave a green frame Kawasaki with a red Ducati in the garage all Ontario-winter-long?" Answer: RedFrame Greenie V11 !

Plus, I recall something about the first 6,000 revolutions using a richer mixture?

Today is the anniversary of the passing of Giovani Ravelli, for whom Carlo Guzzi and Gorgio Parodi adopted the eagle of the Italian Air Force as the symbol of Moto Guzzi. Since then, we have flown the eagle for many dear friends to be remembered . . .

I'm trying to figure out Step4, what to lever against. Seems my battery is on the way?

Woo-hoo! A proper Sport, then! Not a "hybrid" at all!

Are the bikini/instruments fork mounted or frame mounted? Clip-ons or handlebars?

So, Kiwi_Roy, I love this topic. How I wish I could get to that last 0.8-1.0 US gallon of fuel ! I have to take my tank off (again ) tonight. Let us know how you make out with the ratchet strap method . . .