docc

The copper. And the idea to use it to absorb heat in an approximation of what the throttle body experiences at a stop.

Interesting theory. I wondered why you added a heat sink to the temp sensor.

How cool is that? That's a lot of effort put forth! And those massive head guards that are captured by all of the cover fasteners, not just the outboard four.

The red front brake lines look like arteries to vital organs.

That looks like a good application for "Nyloc" nuts.

Hmmm . . . I see a little copper tube nosing out from under the tank. Is it an air intake just for the Air Temperature sensor?

Thanks, Roy! Such great content. Thanks for going to the effort to restore it. I found that downloading a complete file of my Pho'Bucket helped me look for content I needed to restore.

Yep, you can put your images in the Gallery here. Also, know that you can go to PhotoBucket and "Download" back to you computer in one file.

A dear friend shared this with me. It reminded me of the day Jaap posted Steve-N-Seaguls covering this tune and the great fun it was to actually see them perform in Nashville. ThunderStruck, y'all!

For a guy who's V11 has been down almost six weeks, that video/ that *sound* . . . nectar!

Feelin' all froggy here. Thanks, ya'll, for all the insights and assistance! Seems that the five or six repeated sessions of heat and ATF/acetone are good medicine, as is tying off to sturdy "anchor point."

Bearings out,, about ten or twelve slaps each. No drama.

"Watch 'is, bubba!"

Seriously? Notice how the 20-50 has a "C" rating. ("C" = Probably, actually and truly, higher "anti-wear" [Zn/P] additives with no concern for catalytic converters.) Early V11 were spec'd "SG", but good luck finding that these days. "Exceeds SG" does not mean SG. Some of the "C" rated diesel engine oils might.

Yer horse-drainer is safe here . . . just let us know when to avert our eyes!

Even a red winged horse will do this if you don't know when to look away . . .

Tying off to a hitch sounds like a good idea. I definitely don't have a vice this secure. The small, captured, threaded fasteners inside the swing arm for the hugger and the aft trim pieces don't all look well attached in my swingarm (a couple are a bit *crooked*). I would expect a serious session of beating the fire out of this thing would be likely to dislodge them. I still use both the hugger and the trim pieces, so I would rather not trash those fasteners in this process. Hence, the pictured capture method using Nylon spacers and cinching the fasteners up tight. A *precaution*, if you will.

Knowing that we are going to beat the livin' $#!+ out'a this swingarm tomorrow to try and get the bearings out, I decided to anchor the captured nuts for the hugger and end-trim pieces. Pretty sure they would be destroyed, otherwise.

Yeah, chip off the yellow goop. It is there to A) detect tampering, or B ) show you where the tamper points are. Idle speed is really best addressed starting with the "Decent Tune-up." Once performed, the idle can be put where ever you like with the left idle stop screw. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610

Haha - looking back, the image is hilarious! Serves me right for being so serious lately! *Make yer Guzzi turn its head and cough.*

Right, so, some seals are NLA . . .

Dunno, I just don't want the D#$% thing to leak when it's back together. There are eight leak sources in that space. Unless you count both sides of the gaskets and the inner and outer seal surfaces (but those are the things of restless sleep and chronic epizootics ). Could not find Hylomar locally, even though I swore to the parts guys I was working on a Rolls-Royce jet aircraft engine. Best I could find is VersaChem Type 2 "non-hardening/ pliable" gasket sealant. Also for "threaded connections." Better this or my plumber's Teflon tape for the two nefarious leaky bolts?

*Biomorphic* indeed! Beyond that, there is animism. I could tell the Sport was >relieved

Hylomar on both surfaces of both gaskets (main bearing housing/"flange" and crankcase vent)?