docc

What year/ model is your V11, Cabernet?

Apparently, the early RedFrames are the worst for this for some unknown reason. The thread Scud linked posts all the proper attempts (angle fittings, tip grinding, and the needle method), as well as examples of the requisite cursing. You may find new combinations that work for you. ((and not just the cursing!) If the swingarm is coming out, be certain to measure the stand-off of the pivot pins before taking them out.

+1 on what Scud says! What an exciting adventure! (Does that say "Tyco" on that relay?)

I had to share these messages I sent about this experience: "Pretty lucky to have the friends and contacts I’m fortunate to have . . ." (*all-y'all* ) "More than “pretty lucky” . . . *really, amazingly extremely lucky!*" " After all, it's not really about the “stuff”, it’s about community." Thanks, y'all! And not just for helping me fix my *stuff*.

My software engineer-son, V7Café, has gotten an image hosting service built after the big disappointment many of us experienced with PhotoBlockit. Check it out: https://imgzeit.com/

Lovin' the skelotonized bum-stop!

If my Sport smelled like Amaretto, i cannot think this a bad thing in any way.

Yep, or buy your own kit and do it at home. Ciao That seems ambitious for most of us with simple garage tools?

Yea, they are!

So awesome! MotoInternational has all 43 pieces (clutch plates, fasteners, seals&gaskets, swingarm bearings) in stock and on the way! So, for the record, a seventeen year old Italian motorcycle needs routine maintenance and all the parts are immediately available!

Too funny- I read that as "drive train."

I haven't heard of the Valpolini. Looks like an option for those needing a flywheel (Rosso Mandello/Tenni/Scura). Any idea on the cost?

Answer:

Andy, thanks for bringing attention to this: The pressure plate has a hole drilled in one of the teeth; flywheel has an arrow to index the springs. Also, we marked the flywheel to the crank, and the "ring gear" to the flywheel.

I love "multiple choice" . . . A ) It's a specialty thing. B )You're crazy. C ) both A and B

Looks like the pressure plate will be fine . . .

Building tools out of the old parts is brilliant! I thought I would use the input hub as a clutch compressor, but it goes back to work . . . My "engine man" looked at the plates and felt there is no change to the metal, only a glaze. 400 grit aluminum oxide cloth appears to be effective. He cautioned me to use a flat backing surface. Results soon to follow!

I know one thing, for sure, I expect the Sport to be noticeably quieter with the input hub fastened back down.

Voicie had found some: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19960&do=findComment&comment=221720

I'll see if I can simply degrease and lightly dress the plates. They are not grooved or damaged. The rear friction plate material is extremely loose on both sides. Would not have been much longer before it "came from together." MotoInternational lists the OEM spring part number, rather than the "stiffer/softer" options.

Are the originals likely to pack up on me? It's only 4 days, thing is I'm taking a small rucksack with clothes etc in, not really wanting to take much in the way of tools. I take it relays are easy to get at? Are the originals likely to pack up on me? It's only 4 days, thing is I'm taking a small rucksack with clothes etc in, not really wanting to take much in the way of tools. I take it relays are easy to get at? Yes, they are easy to get at. Just take the seat off and you are looking at them. Will one fail if it's the OEM relay? Probably not, but maybe. It would only take a minute to put the new relays in. Yeah, they're under the seat. Failure to start or running issues have been reported from weak or inadequate relays. I suppose I could say I know of six or eight instances for certain. Are there V11 out there still running on their original Seimans? Sure, but why take the chance with something so easy to take with you and change?

Just those plates, really. My springs are probably fine, but the OEM springs are quite inexpensive, as are the fasteners and safety washers. Still hoping to lightly resurface the pressure plates.

I made up my mind. This is normal maintenance/ normal wear. No failure (beyond the "safety washer" letting the input hub walk off the gearbox input shaft). No actual damage.

Last thing first: Here in the Deep, Humid, Stormy Southern USA, *now* (summer) is the time to refit as long as one has a place free of mosquitoes where the sweat doesn't obscure clear vision. Contrary to popular belief, alligators are not conducive to 'firing another round.' All the seals/gaskets have to be done regardless. #1) Looks like a pair of friction plates, intermediate plate, new springs, with new flywheel fasteners and Schnorr washers will be under $300US. ("Normal Maintenance?") Add #2?) Adding the Guzzi crown gear and pressure plate: another ~$600US. (The "Make-Sure/Once-and-Done?") Plus #3?) Also replace the flywheel and the input hub? $unknown$ . . . (The "Over-the-Top/OMG/replace-everything?") Closing in on two grand? Or #4) RAM complete assembly (plus *sourced* input hub and "machined" pushrod) ~$785? (The "Unknown Quantity?") One unanswered question (among the many), can these surfaces be restored?

Yes, indeed! And a tab properly engaged well into the lock nut!