docc

Normal position of the lock nut:

So, no doubt, my clutch went "sticking" because the safety washer failed to retain the input hub to the gearbox. Check out the position of the lock nut. Hanging on by "two threads!" . . . (You can actually see where the lock nut has been engaging the pushbutton on the pressure plate.)

I mean, "this" is the *meat&potatoes* of what SpineRaids are really about: Just bring an enjoyable beverage and *all's well!* (Oh . . .dude, your crankshaft is showing . . . )

Yeah, well . . . I'm conflicted . . . but, y'all knew that about me already . . .

Have a link to his comments? I would go to Wg and try and find his comments, but I find it impossible to locate anything there. And what if I got *caught* over there? *TRON* revisited!

I certainly can't complain about the V11 clutch. All the wear found is acceptable. If the input hub hadn't walked off, I'd still be wailing on it.

Troutman, what a great plan! Looking forward to some photos from the Alps! If I were doing this, I would obtain and install 5 OMRON G8HE relays specified in the "Best Relay" thread pinned in Technical Topics. Ride well!

Something about a Coleman lantern and a V11 are just right for one another.

I was waiting to see when Andy would start shaking his head!!! Andy, If you need a good Imperial Stout or a Belgian Tripple (rally 6X)... I have them on tap! See? This is coming together!

Ah! The very definition of a Spine Raid! Yeah, man, let's see what I can do to talk you out of that one. Haha! What a great community! I've contacted you through ebay, but it looks like I may be able to collect the part locally, if I can come up with the right goodies to "trade." (Moonshine trades right-well in these parts . . . These are great points, as always, luhbo. It is quite remarkable how much MotoGuzzi got right on these V11! Good point that last one. The problem was a loose input hub. Fasten it correctly and ride it. You would not have taken it apart just now if it wasn't for that problem. Maybe toss in some fresh clutch springs since you're there. I am seriously considering this avenue: replace the friction discs, maybe the springs, freshen up the mating surfaces and get on down the road . . .

My understanding is that the 5speed input hub won't work on the V11 6speed because the gearbox input shaft has different splines. So, the input hub supplied with the RAM "5speed" complete clutch is incompatible with the V11 6speed. Must source MG RM/Tenni/early-Scura input hub. Perhaps, the common 2-plate input hub could be "milled down", but we haven't gone there yet . . . For now, let's get the dimensions to adapt the 6speed pushrod to the 5 speed push button . . .

Oh, dear . . . If I install the RAM clutch in my early Sport, I become a single plater? All new noises to get used to!

I think that's properly spelled: Jacka'LeMans

#1: Enlarging any "push button" would best be done with an end mill, not a drill bit. My thinking: best left alone. #2: One of the greatest things about the RAM unit is it comes complete, assembled, and balanced. Taking it apart (to change the push button) defeats those advantages. After sorting through all the efforts, it seems time to derive a specification to modify the 6speed (hydraulic actuation) push rod -> 5speed clutch push button. (craigsinclair got it really close:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19621&p=215047 "It is already machined down at the actuator end, and unmachined at the clutch end. The OD is 8.0mm except at the end where it's been machined down to 6.0mm. Placing the 8.0mm end into the original clutch and the 6.0mm end into the new clutch I get what feels like the same amount of play, but my calipers don't reach far enough down into the new clutch to actually measure the opening. The machined length of the actuator end is maybe 0.5mm longer than the depth of the hole on the new RAM clutch. I suspect that if I get it machined so that it's symmetrical it will fit in nicely."

I am thinking the best dimensioning we could derive to adapt the 6speed pushrod to the 5speed push button is to measure the diameter of a 5speed pushrod: these look to be one diameter: That must be a *known quantity* . . . along with the depth of the RAM push botton.

It's a matter of the actual dimensions. The larger diameter 6speed clutch pushrod has to to be *narrowed* to engage the "5speed" push button. Well, that, and will it have to be re-hardened?

Pretty cool how much information I could gather from posts and threads back to 2006. Y'all are the best! At this point (converting a standard 6speed/2 plate clutch&flywheel to a "5speed" RAM), I'm looking for a MG single plate input hub (RM/Tenni/Scura), and the dimensions of the clutch tip of a 5 speed pushrod . . . Chuck . . . *buddy* . . . you must have a 5speed clutch pushrod in your backpocket. . . . . . . probably a micrometer in the other pocket . . . Yeah, man . . . I am inquiring about that one! Thanks for posting it again!

I am looking at the push button and would not like to mill any metal out of it. I am more inclined to "turn don" the tip of the push rod to adapt the 6speed pushrod to the smaller push button of the 5speed clutch. But, Tom, what have you installed for a replacement clutch? So, installing the Low-inertia RAM/steel flywheel ("5speed") complete assembly looks to be a matter of sourcing the MG single plate input hub 01211640, and "turning down" the tip of the 6speed pushrod to the smaller dimension of the 5speed push button (NOT changing its length) (+ six fresh Schnorr washers) . . . . Does anyone have the dimensions of the clutch push end of an actual 5 speed push rod?

That makes sense. after all, the V11 single plate unit was made by RAM? I'm liking this idea of the low inertia RAM. It will take some getting use to, as the engine braking will be reduced. I really like the fact that it is entirely assembled and balanced as delivered. I'll be studying craigsinclair's results tonight. I think he may be the only one to have put an aftermarket, low inertia RAM in a V11?

I didn't think of the back and forth DOF. But is this axis a problem? The engine pulses in another plane, and the wear we see on the splines surely comes from the radial rattle. Back and forth would be axial. Anyhow, I see a good chance that holding in the clutch at stops in 1st gear or at other occasions isn't really that bad, maybe more weal than woe even. Really bad for the clutch and the splines is probably being hard on the throttle at lower revs, let's say below 3 or maybe 4k. And then, Docc's V11 has seen some miles, why should the parts look as new? The usual life span of a motorcycle is below 50.000, everything above is a bonus for the owner and lost profit for the manufacturer. See it this way. I expected my flywheel to look much worse at 99,000 miles. I did not expect the input hub to look so bad, but no one expected it to come completely loose, either. (That was certainly my increasing idle rattle noise.) While I am not one to run the Sport below 4,000 RPM, I am admittedly often hard on the throttle and downshifting/ rev-matching, then hard on it right back up again. "Hell-on-wheels!" . . . and tires . . . and brakes . . . and clutches . . .

I found this post and image by craigsinclair. Am I getting warmer? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19621&p=215047 and craigsinclair's *update* : http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19621&p=218685

Discussion moved here for clarity of both threads and better enjoyment by all of the enthusiastic participants and readers.

Interesting discussion on what makes noise and might cause wear in a Guzzi drivetrain. Follow it and join in here: 24/7 V11 - Guzzi clutch noise and wear

Good advice. Where are the specifications to modify the pushrod?