docc

Soooo, I opened the bucket to anchor the relays and driver as swooshdave suggested and here is curious change I did not expect. Turns out the fan blows forward and does not exhaust through the honeycomb at the very back.

It's the "GOAT" part that had me worried . . .

183. Coincidence? What does it mean? = *All's Well*

I found it remarkable that the *test bed* PC545 fell below the ~85% (12.65v) charging threshold within 24 hours of testing the two improper chargers on it. (Apparently, it did not *like* that.) The biggest battery/charging issues are still the two simplest things that Kiwi_Roy has told us all along: 1) *regularly* clean, tighten, and seal with Vaseline® your battery terminals; and 2) see to your main ground, and ground the regulator case.

Thanks, scullerZx! Here is the definitive answer about fitting this LED unit to the plastic LeMans headlight bucket!

The Running Light serves a couple purposes. As I understand it, there are cities (in Europe?) where the hi-wattage headlight is to be turned off and the switchgear is configured for this. Hence the name "City Light." In the US, that switch is not present. Yet, in practical terms, if the headlight goes out for some reason, that low wattage (4 watt) bulb is in an entirely different circuit and will still still offer a bit of light in the bucket along with the tail light, tag light, and instrument illumination ("Running Lights") Hey, that's not a bad idea at all!

120ºF in Arizona? Hey, "it's a dry heat." [Yeah, like your oven . . . ]

Doesn't someone make "chrome" colored paint (maybe Rustoleum's metallic series or VHT)?

So, I'm a little surprised . . . Young son gave me an energy monitoring device for Father's Day and I began checking the amperage draw of various circuits in my proximity. The Fender Bassman LTD (reissue) is on one of them and shows to be only drawing about 3/4 of an amp (0.73A). I expected those 6L6 output tubes-etc to be much less efficient, creating a significant current draw. But, no?

I get the considered opinion that the "PC" has been superseded by better methods (thanks *Beard* and the guzzidiag team! ), but the stock crossover? It doesn't seem to mess up my Sport (with the Mistral canisters) so much. Seems there are some particular dyno charts that show good results with the stock crossover ("expansion chamber") . . .

12,4v should be recoverable. It is one of the Odyssey's best traits. You will absolutely need 6 amps minimum for the charging. Also, try the discharge method and expect to perform the discharge/cycle several times. Let us know how you make out!

Guzzi2Go, What is the voltage (SOC) of your old battery? It may come back to life using the deep discharge methods Odyssey publishes. Using a series of discharge/ charge up to 15v with 6+ amps may do the trick! If it is fully discharged (~10v), you can use the parallel battery method to get it up enough to use the hi-amp charger. As always, watch those temperatures!

"leerlauf" . . . I never thought of measuring like that . . . 1.5 amp charger : 13.28v leerlauf 2.0 amp charger : 10.28v leerlauf (!) On the *test bed* PC545 (beginning at 12.68OCV): 1.5 amp charger : 14.30 ( 13.17v float rising to 13.25v over a few minutes. 2.0 amp charger : 14.44 -> 13.31v -> 13.15 and continuing to fall over a few minutes. This is why I stopped using these chargers. The EnerSys OMAX floats the PC545 at 13.56v at ~70ºF/21ºC. The primary observation I had used to determine effective charging (and the *health* of the battery) was how long it took to fall back to the 12.65v charging threshold. After using the recommended minimum charge current and correct trickle/float voltage, these PC545 have had much longer static discharge times (often weeks instead of days).

It is made as part of the headlamp assembly. This one fell off inside my original Bosch during the warranty period:

Indeed. I only have one charger that has any functional algorithm (The EnerSys OMAX 6). My old ones just settle into a constant voltage. I am able to use my 10amp and 6amp manual chargers only by physically monitoring voltage. Observing batteries with a low SOC rise within a minute to the 15v limit is what got me discharging before charging. Is your charger on the EnerSys list of "approved" chargers? http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_approved_12V_chargers.pdf

So, my low power chargers are quite old (I have two left), and both float at ~13.19v over the several batteries I monitor. For a couple years I kept extensive charts on the different chargers and how well each of my five AGM (and two flooded electrolyte batteries) held their SOC. While still only qualifying me as "a poor scientist (Dr. Venkman )", I learned that my low power chargers were not the best for the AGM. I believe I posted that the best results I was getting was about 82% (I'd have to look back at that derivation to see why I quantified the results in that way). Now, this still made for good batteries that lasted into their ninth year. but with a little extra effort and attention to the amperage/voltage requirements, the AGM (VRLA) perform into the 90th percentile and hold their SOC notably longer during static discharge. One of my hair-brained theories is that maintaining a higher SOC with the charger will be easier on the V11 charging system. Does this stand to reason in practice? IDK Guzzi2Go, what is the voltage shown while you use your 1 amp charger?

I don't think they're as fussy as I've made out. Guzzi2Go makes this point very well, I think. Others have also posted various simpler methods that have carried their Odyssey for many years. Yet, for those who struggle with their charging system, store the bike for extended periods, or use chargers with inadequate voltage, knowing more about the design and requirements is (hopefully) going to make the battery more reliable and last longer. At the beginning of the thread, I was hoping to figure out how to use my menagerie of old chargers to good effect. What transpired has been quite an ongoing education. Well, that and the EnerSys OMAX charger I ended up with. It takes all the fuss out since it runs the algorithm automatically.

None of my low amp chargers have adequate float voltage (13.5-13.8). They are all below the 13.2v threshold stated to be damaging to the plates. So much of Odyssey's presentation is about deep discharge applications rather than our SIL use (Start-Ignition-Lights). Yet, those charging protocols would be most applicable when we have let our battery get quite low from sitting too long ?

That looks to be a *bruise* from where the integrated reflector fell off and rubbed around on the surface.

Nailed down a room (and a garage space) at Walt&Anna's LodgeatTellico for the "Weekend after Labor Day." Show up (ya'll). Bring tools.

This is what I remain most interested in . . . Thank you, Guzzi2Go for the excellent input and assistance in making this thread the best it can be for all V11 owners with these AGM (VRLA) batteries!

I see the Odyssey charger bulletin has been superseded (link repaired). I believe the "comments" on the 2011 document are pertinent to the charge current discussion: