docc

So, this unit came today. Twelve days (including two weekends and a US holiday) from China. The unit was packaged very well and looks to be very high quality. The driver is integrated with the plug, so it is indeed a plug in unit. Just a matter of grooming the wiring and small driver in the bucket. There is ~10-11 mm (3/8") behind the fan outlet/ heat sink housing. I'm pleased with that (so far!)

Chuck, if it's an AGM battery, let it discharge statically without the tender. When it falls to 12.65, discharge with the lights a few minutes and apply 6 amps minimum until it reaches 14.8 or so. Follow with a "float" charge of 13.5-13.8v. Repeat until it keeps a proper SOC (State of Charge) / Open Current Voltage (12.84). If your tender doesn't float at 13.5-13.8, it is ungood for the AGM. Below 13.2v is damaging.

Sounds like that is adding us to a "Decent Tune-up." But, Tinus, I thought you would have already done that?

Wow, Chuck, thanks for the link to the WG thread. Such great sharing! I had to lift a couple phrases: ". . . the turbine like smoothness of the Spot motor . . ." and: " . . . an aircraft inspector just �sees� that kind of stuff." plus, my fave photo (out of so many great ones!):

I concur with czakky. You're going about this the right way. So, as we say clinically, "What's Next Most?" . . . . . . fuel pump/ connections, fuel filter, fuel line too close to the cylinder/head, faulty electric petcock, failed tank vent (tank suck) . . .

They're saying the NipponDenso draws 80 amps, and the BMW Bosch 120 amps? I don't recall our Valeo drawing anything like that, even at inrush? BTW, Is that tarmac and gravel packed around your starter shaft? Seems that could make for some excessive *friction*/ draw . . .

You don't own the V11 because it does anything better. It doesn't . You own it because it defines you. [That is poetic. An axiom of our existence and character. gstallons, you should make that your "signature" so we can be reminded of this everytime you post!]

I saw the new 800 Interceptor at the Honda dealer yesterday (in white). It's size and style, and *presence* reminded me directly of my early 90s VFR. Seems one year (91-93) the US did get a black VFR 750F, but not exactly the one voicie is showing. One of the things that made it easy for me to let go is I couldn't get to anything to fiddle with it; couldn't balance the intakes. That and it didn;t really want me fiddling with it anyway . . .

Let me ask this: If the Go_Winkie flickers (or a test light on the back section of the fuse block flickers), is the Ignition Switch the likely culprit?

Thanks Tom M! I knew you guys would nail this!

I discovered one of the other reasons I've been clamping the charger(s) to the battery terminals: It makes it most convenient for me to move the multimeter, using the SAE connectors, from machine to machine while monitoring battery condition (I have *several*). Always monitoring for the AGM battery that drops to 12.65v, then >discharge

That is well reasoned and quite plausible. Today, I managed 183 miles and, while the SH trip odo and the Garmin Fuel Odo were off that 0.7%, the total miles between the two main odometers are exact. So, I'm sure it'll be fine. Worse, I've got to quit admiring the gauges rolling down the road. "Keep your eyes outside the cockpit!" I do miss watching the tumblers "roll" . . .

As guzZIGary says, twin plate on the Rosso Corsa. Yet, the bullet connectors for the clutch switch will only prevent the start circuit from getting power, they won't cause the motor to "cut-out" or stall once underway. Just today, I helped a fellow with a 2004 LeMans that was doing this exact thing (intermittent running failure). GH8E High Current Relay in Position#5 and he rode over 100 miles with no problem! ( He was not getting more than 10 miles before). Exposing the Ignition Switch contacts for cleaning and inspecting the solder points is a good next step. The Sidestand Switch and its wiring can also cause stalling/cutting out issues, but much less likely than the relay and the Ignition Switch (IMCO)

I suppose pulling/drifting the caged needle bearing to get to the seal from the outside is still immensely easier than the full dismantle from the inside. In a commendable exercise of frank denial, I decided to drain the gearoil/moly after only 5,000 miles. Cleaned the needles out, along with everything else I could get to inside the axle area, with electronics cleaner and compressed air. Refilled a little over 90% capacity (with about 90% RedLine MTL GL5+ 80W140). 69 miles and dry. I'm not expecting a permanent solution, but perhaps I dislodged some foreign material that was causing the leak . . . After all, what good is denial with out a creamy dose of wishful thinking? [102,940 miles]

So, the main drive appears unchanged. The short shaft replaces the cable end of the longer bent-tube cable. So, yes, the shaft is needed for the angle drive and not for the bent-tube. Standing by to hear if Moto Murphy gets his speedo/odometer back. I told him using the radar cameras out on The Trace isn't a great way to check his speed . . .

Fwiw this seems to have worked on my r5 atleast for now... On the fork seals?

So, the answer to that is , "Nope." The needle cage would have to be pulled (or drifted out) to get access to the outer seal surface. Vent was clear.

I would start with the bullet connectors that come from the clutch safety switch: Here's (one of the many) the post(s) discussing them: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1778&p=15302 Shielded and groomed clutch connectors center screen: Since you have an '01, the next thing I would do is upgrade to High Current Relays, especially in the #1 (front/ Start) and #5 (back/ FI) positions.

Odometer is coming into closer agreement with the Garmin. The difference is about 1/2 what it started with in just a few hundred miles. Currently differs by -0.7% Some *self-learning*, perhaps?

I could write you a *note* . . . doctor's orders . . .

I'm hoping you guys can help Shiny Mike figure out what this shifter is (it's not factory). We'll probably need a couple more pictures and I don't have them. I've never seen that shift lever break.

Typically, I'm a *poor scientist* ("Dr. Venkman") and revamp all and everything. People say, "shotgun approach?" I'd say more like an artillery barrage . . . But that's me. And this The Scud. So, what about setting the valves to "world specs" (0.006/0.008) and go out and find some altitude. See if that makes the difference?

Once the rear drive is dismounted and the needle cage and its race are removed, is the sealing surface accessible?