docc

Looks like the inner seal seals the tail (right side extension) of the crown wheel and the outer (large) seal seals the the left side extension of the crown wheel? I wonder if I can slide a thin cellophane strip around that interface and clean out the suspected and offending swarf?

Meinolf confirms that there is air pressure input to the V11 ECU: ((Fuel Map value x Fuel map value factor) + (CO trim value x CO trim value factor)) x trim factorairtemp x trim factorenginetemp x trim factorairpressure x trimfactorbatteryvoltage x trim factorn = injection time" http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865&p=221471

I had concluded that if the seal sealed on the axle, the gear oil would pour out when the axle is removed. I was trying to cook up a way to use Chuck's cellophane clearing technique that is known to rescue fork seals. The inner seal, itself, is apparently identical to fork seals.

If it's in neutral, and the neutral switch and middle relay are good, the sidestand switch wouldn't keep it from cranking over. What year/ model is the bike, Agonza5?

moved for discussion: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19976

Hold the clutch lever in, hold the starter button in, and turn the bars lock-to-lock. Any joy? If so, look at the "bullet connectors " for the clutch switch under the tank on the left side of the frame.

I wondered about that. Is that what the inner seal seals on?

Super-nice set-up! And +1 on this, " . . . the exhaust hangers, which have a pretty weak weld."

I'll check it again. Would that it were something simple. This time . . .

The leak from the inner seal has returned after five years, ~20000 miles/ 32.250km. I've ordered the seals and the O-ring from MGCycle. Now, I wish I could remember how Andy got it all apart (and together again). But, that was five years ago . . . I don't remember any special bearing puller. I've been tempted to try and "flush" it out with a series of gearoil changes, but all that proved to be a waste of time when this happened before. I do wonder if some swarf was left over in the case from the bad work, that was done in Kansas, may have found its way into the seal. *nuts*

Tenni on ebay (noted in the Registry by Coppa53): http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Moto-Guzzi-LeMans-Tenni-/162537857624?hash=item25d802e258:g:Mj8AAOSwi7RZMFaI&vxp=mtr

Ah - yeah it is "rubber", but appears to have a higher durometer (stiffer) than the Silent Block.

Those are wonderful motorcycles! I had a white one for a couple years after the Sport got crashed. The way the motor made power and I just never connected in that captivating way the V11 affects so many of us.

So, does the later "bent-tube" cable still use the short drive shaft coming from the gearbox drive? [For that matter, is the drive unit in the gearbox the same between the early cable with angle drives and the later cables with the bent-tube?] (pictured bottom left):

Yes. The tang from the crossover rests on it (#16 spacer).

I like the new avatar! Even though the rotation is a bit disconcerting . . .

Let's all be aware that this thread is about the factory center exhaust hanger. While it is shown fitted to the factory "crossover" (*expansion chamber*), it is used for several of the aftermarket crossovers, but not all.

I started using the clamps when I was trying to learn and document AGM conditioning. It was more convenient to hook the voltmeter to the connector. I was also doing some 10 amp charging and I thought the clamps would be better rated. At his point, I think the SAE connector, fused 10 amps, would be the better charger connection for the 6 amp EnerSys charger, yes?

Richer. But, as Meinolf points out in post #272, primarily at the most closed throttle angles (idle and just off), and insignificant at WOT. The "richer" part I feel I'm a Qualified Simpleton to reply, but the rest is truly and actually the Rocket Science we've heard so much about . . .

I got a picture of Moto Murphy's upper cable connection and feel certain someone swapped it out for the later bent-tube cable. As good fortune would have it, I have a cable and fairly new angle drive that just came off my Sport that will get his needle moving once again.

That-there is rhyminiscent!

One more test for the next "Tank Off" session. [i also need to test the voltage drop in the black reference wire to the regulator.]

Those engines were really expensive to produce. Plus, the Guzzi *cogniscenti* of the day were largely unconvinced of the added value. Head alloys became a significant development issue producing the 1064cc 2-valve big block with the Crane cam. So, perhaps, the V10 head alloys were an issue? What a great motor (the V10) for those with the gumption to take it on! The Vee-eleven-slash-ten!

*Live life on the edge . . . rewire it yourself* . . .

Ah! That's what fuses are for! To protect us from our-own-selves . . .