docc

The "Running Light" circuit on the V11 is a curious animal. In my view, if the relays fail (say it ain't so! ), the Running Lights still get their fire through the Ignition Switch and Fuse#6. No relay. So, even if the headlight (and brake light, warning lights, charging, and tach) go out from relay failure (Relays #1 NC or #2 NO), you still have a tail light, tag light, instrument illumination, and a 4 watt "city" light in the headlamp bucket. A "limp home" mode, if you will. Even better, it seems the Running Lights stay on if Fuse#6 is pulled (or blown). Unless either Relay#2 or Relay#1 is also pulled (or fail), then they go out. It's an excellent redundant system to ensure the Running Lights stay lit. :thumbsup: But, I can't find how the Running Lights are *also* fed from the Relay circuit unless it is inside the left handlebar switch set. Is it? Or how? Or is my Funky-Old-Sport shorted out? curious minds and idle hands . . .

Brain Salad Surgery should always be approached in right frame of mind and total dedication to the outcome . . .

"Are we a GreenV11 being silver, or a SilverV11 being green?" - Zen koan

Yes. And: yes, we actually have one of those here. They have helped me immensely with all of the wiring projects I have foisted upon my Guzzi. Looks like an LED headlamp unit could be next . . . I've been reluctant to plug the 6 amp charger into my SAE accessory connectors. I have long opted to clamp the charger to the battery terminals. It's the connector on the adapter cable that failed. The accessory connectors are fused for 10 amps, so they should be fine to use for this 6 amp charger. Finding the actual fault is quite a relief, of course. Because of all the Brain Salad Surgery on the Sport's instruments, I simply assumed I had screwed something up and injured the battery.

I need to source an SAE connector and repair the adapter. In the meantime, I'm plugging the charger directly into my fused accessory connector on the bikes. That might be a better method regardless.

Either that or figure out how to hot wire the bike - so long as you don't lock the steering. Do this ahead of time and you will never be stuck. Actually, it's pretty easy to pull the Ignition Switch apart and start the V11 with a screwdriver. Until you get 100 miles down the road and can't get the fuel tank open (the *other* 6 tumblers!) . . .

I thought Swoosh made a good point about the white/blue lights perhaps being more visible to other road users. Yet, I personally prefer to look out upon the road with a warmer (more yellow) light. I figure if it's bright enough, it will still have good conspicuity. After all, cagers still pull in front of fire trucks painted Safety Yellow with lights and sirens going . . .

I'd like to read that explanation. Do mind copying that and pasting it here? Or posting a link?

I found the problem. It was not the PC545 or anything I did. Broken wire at the connector for the charger.

So, does it hold any water that the fact I left the battery connected while I worked on the wiring for the tach and speedo? I mean, they're on the other side of switches and relays. Could that, alone, have contributed to running the battery down excessively? [FWIW, the PC545 is holding 12.83v (@~72ºF/22ºC )"Open Current Voltage" with the Garmin Zumo in the mount *charging* and the "Hot Start" wire for the Speedhut connected.]

Depends on the question(s), I suppose. I have the 4000LM/4300K "bulb" on the way. *[edit 6 June 2017: this unit plugs in with any wiring changes, everything fits easily in the early Bosch bucket, actaul 10-11 mm clearance behind the heat sink/ fan outlet.] The unit that MartyNZ posted with the copper coils looks like it works, "plug&play," if you're okay with the output and the color.

Good call on not pushing it. Spending a few days inside a motorcycle helmet sharing space with a sinus infection is not a formula for recovery, let alone a good time . . Rest up, get well, buddy!

Thanks, J-G_1! I took the chance of changing the tach from the Veglia's 11,000 to the Speedhut's 10,000 which puts the *5* at the very top. After all, that's where my V11 really likes to come alive . . . Getting both those needles pointing to the right? Whew! "TICKETS and jail !"

Thanks! Thank Chuck . . . http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19673

With so many choices for the H4 LED, post what you find. I don't suppose we have this entirely figured out (yet).

The EnerSys charger finally floated the PC545 at 13.54 volts. It took several cycles of discharge and charge. I do wonder if I had disconnected the battery (negative) before messing around with the gauge wiring if the battery would have fared better . . .

Truly. I have been trying to discern the wiring. The connector to the driver *looks* very similar to the AMP connector for the V11 headlamp, but it's not the same. What to cut and solder this time? That would be far from "plug&play ". . . .

My best methods yield *right-at* 45 mm from the H4 base plate to the back of the bucket. If the fan exhausts backward through the honeycomb, maybe a vent cut in the back of the bucket would be exactly right? If the fan exhausts radially, then it's simply a close fit (10 mm behind the heat sink/ fan housing).

Those costs are quite reasonable. These are the OMRON G8HE High Current 5-pin (SPDT)?

This is one option I would like to make fit. 4000 lumen, 4300 Kelvin. It does have a fan and a driver, but that seems to be the norm. Good news though, "no need tool." I have a extra bucket that I might-could *modify* if necessary. . . https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-H4-CREE-LED-Motorcycle-Headlight-Bulb-4000LM-40W-Hi-Lo-20W-Low-Beam-Conversion-Kit/32619929937.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.27.PpxLMx&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_5010019_10136_10137_10157_10060_10138_10155_10062_10156_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_303_100031_10099_10103_10102_10096_10147_10052_10053_10107_10050_10142_10051_10084_10083_5190020_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_519_10111_10112_10113_10114_10183_10182_10185_10078_10079_10073_10123_142-10050,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=e6d1f2b0-23fa-46f2-b8d1-f0ac63ba47f5&algo_expid=dca429f6-9754-4b9f-aaac-ef16f611ca97-3&algo_pvid=dca429f6-9754-4b9f-aaac-ef16f611ca97

Are there plug&play LED turn signal "bulbs" comparable to this tail light unit?

I just mounted this LED tail/brake light. I forgot about the flash function, but am really glad to have it! I added a length of metalized (shiny silver surface) duct tape in the bottom of the tail light lens to reflect as much light out of the lens as possible. Thanks for posting this Swoosh! Now to find a *comparable* headlamp unit . . .

It's not the only Rube Goldberg mechanism on our V11. Have you looked at your sidestand? Or the way the Veglia speedometer is driven?