docc

Hmm.. they don't have a cat converter just a big space, right? There's a perforated flat baffle in the factory crossover, but no cat(alytic converter) AFAIK.

The signal setting was no problem (select "2"), but I hoped the tachometer would read the exact same RPM that the ECU "sees". (My Veglia read about 300 RPM high.) So, while the face was open, I connected guzziadiag and *attempted to* rotate the face ever-so-slighlty to get the needle pointing at the exact RPM on guzzidiag. It's a big V-twin, so they both bounce around a lot. Another one "for the record": It ain't worth it.

Well, easy answer? The clutch noise is fine. The "choke?" . . . Well, it only nudges the right throttle plate slightly to give a "high idle." The cable can be adjusted at the throttle body as well as the "cam" that nudges the linkage on the right throttle body. See the "Decent Tune-up" for a picture of the bottom of the right throttle body. Once-upon-a-time, someone figured that *some* V11 may have gotten the seat latch spring and high-idle spring switched in Luigi's bins. Swapping them has been said to make both the high idle and the seat latch work better . . . YMMV

While trying to index the tach (make it level and plumb), I inadvertently found the the chrome bezel unscrews (unlike the Veglia which are crimped). This revealed the added seal which seals the glass to the face surround. (I also tried to use guzzidiag to calibrate the rpm reading, but I'm not sure that was a success . . . )

The PC545 is slowly recovering. The float charge is now 13.26 (looking for it make 13.4-13.8). When I first tried to restore its state of charge, it would only float at 12.7, which is about 90% of an AGM full charge and the charger would terminate. I have been wondering if I damaged one of the terminals internally overtightening . . .

Best method: put all five High Current OMRON in your relay blocks (contacts smeared with a little Vaseline®) and put your *others* in the "Monkey Paw Trap" to help out other V11 riders who didn't get the memo.

Actually, more on the battery and proper procedure while working on an electrical system. If I am understanding Kiwi_Roy's method, it is to disconnect the vehicle battery and use a separate power source to power a system while it's being worked on?

"Enjoy thy topics as well as thy posts." - Desiderata

The Fuel Injection Relay for sure and, if your V11 fails The Easy Livin' Test, also the Start Relay (usually #1 in the front).

I'm guessing it is a combination of it sitting for 30 days, turning the gauges on and off some, and not disconnecting the battery while unmaking and making connections? That last part is what made me think I should have disconnected the battery while doing the work.

Truly . . . .

Thanks for the kind encouragement, Scud. I'm working at *reconditioning* the AGM (2 1/2 years old). If it won't respond, I'll put my 7 year old >testbed Swampee-the-man-eating-garden-tractor-from-Kirkland. What I know most about reconditioning batteries: cycle them!

I know it's *The Eleventh Hour*, but where is the lodging Friday and Saturday night? Still here: http://www.wingfieldinnandsuitesowensboroky.com/

This RAM system includes a flywheel?

Kinda like fitting an Aero motor to a Lario . . .

I'll bet you could have those high current relays from Digikey (USA) in a few days with reasonable shipping costs. Otherwise, take the OMRON part number and have look locally: High-Current OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 Yep, I got a set after Docc kept brow beating me so I wouldn't get left on the side of the road on the mini spine raid/mutton run next week. About 25 bux shipped in a couple of days.. Ya'll are killin' me here . . . At the very least, I won't have to carry so many spare relays for ya'll when we meet on the (side of the) road . . .

I'm more than a little embarrassed to post this, but it looks like I made a stupid mistake. As many of you know, I am *meticulous* about monitoring and maintaining my AGM battery. After my Speedhut gauge installation, my battery would not take a charge from the dedicated EnerSys charger. My >testbed Seems I violated Rule#1 of electrical work: -> Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal. -> First. -> Before Anything Else. There, I feel a little better knowing that you won't do what I screwed up . . .

I'll bet you could have those high current relays from Digikey (USA) in a few days with reasonable shipping costs. Otherwise, take the OMRON part number and have look locally: High-Current OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12

Seems the first thing K'Roy would say is something about scraping your battery terminals shiny and Vaseline®.

So the $20 bulb puts out 200 lumen and the regular one is 1850 and you're complaining? The blue/white is very effective at one thing, drivers seeing you. It seems like if I'm going to go to the trouble to "upgrade", I would want a significant difference in output. I realize that the cost, and the heat, rise with the output, while longevity/reliability go down. I didn't mean to start a separate headlight thread, as I was hoping the member who had posted an alternative LED would post up. It wasn't posted on the JBBenson's main thread, but somewhere else. Still, I appreciate all the links and the education. At this point, I would like to find a heat sink (no fan) unit with 4000+ lumen and color range less than 5000 Kelvin.

God point (Kiwi_Roy always makes good points ) that the start wiring changed on the V11 series. voicie, how about going to your profile and filling in your year/ model V11 and a location?

Well, as noted, I've seen H4 LED with as little as 1000 lumen and as much as 8000. The standard incandescent hi-beam is around 1850. One member in the other thread (I believe Moto fugazzi) commented that the blue-white light is not as effective as the warmer (more yellow) color in rain and fog. I've heard similar comments from the automotive side. (Sw'dave, I have one of the LED tail light units you posted elsewhere, but haven't installed yet.)

The V11 bucket is about the same size as the 850T one. About 5in deep. For $20 you can confirm the bulbs I recommended work. Both those bulbs, posted in Post#3 are "only" 2000 lumen and neither list the color spectrum.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605

Nice! Well done! (Hmm . . . catalytic converter in the factory US crossover? )