docc

Know your AGM: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18838

Out of (undying) curiosity, I weighed these instruments and their support systems. Veglia speedometer with gearbox drive, cable/housing and angle drives plus the Veglia tachometer: nearly an even kilogram! (1002 grams) The Speedhut speedo and tach with all the kit to drive them: 332 grams: almost exactly 1/3. Working my way toward a lightweight sportbike . . . (But, hey, I lost a pound-and-a-half. )

Copper hammer, no less . . . "The world was, once again, spinning on greased grooves." - Steinbeck

I tried putting some stilettos on the grill, but it "made me highly irregular" to the point that that no amount of dee-ip could assuage . . . [Compliments to Lord Buckley . . . and Jimmy Buffett for turning me on to this performer. ]

Before posting my attempts at weatherproofing, I wanted to try and show how much wiring can be reduced with careful planning and the bold use of side cutters and a soldering iron. As delivered: The pile of stuff left over after the installation (163 grams/ over 1/3 pound):

I would like to have posted a pic from some breathtaking overlook in the mountains, but even on the lift, the V11 is a genuine Work of Art . . .

Progress on my ongoing Vitusectomy . . .

That AGM battery is still only 85%. Should be *fine*, but ought to be properly conditioned to get close to 100% (12.84v). Those GEI relays are simply not adequately rated for the Fuel Injection/Ignition Relay (or the Starter Relay/ Relay#1 on the Gen One V11). They'll run hot (obviously) and fail (eventually).

That's really low battery voltage, like 68%. Ordinarily, the last relay, #5 at the very back, is the Fuel Injection/ignition relay that is most stressed and hottest. But, as you say, it wouldn't take much for Luigi to have switched it with #4 which is for the ECU. The Red/black is definitely the power to the Fuel pump/ injectors / and coils. The Fuel Injection/Ignition relay is the one that really benefits from a true High Current relay (35 amp NO). http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605

+1 - and good job reducing the wire clutter that comes from Speedhut. The constant power for the speedo only keeps the last location in memory when the bike is off. It's not powering the GPS function. I forget the numbers but it's a tiny amount of power - far less than running a clock - so it would take a very long time to drain the battery. I regret not hooking that up on my installation because the bike "forgets" where it is even when I turn it off to get gas. Then I have to wait for it to acquire the signal before I can reset the trip meter. Thanks, guys! Speedhut says that draws 25 micro amps. As Scud says, it isn't actually operating the GPS. I suppose if it were stored for a long period, that fuse (circuit breaker in my case), could be pulled. I'm about 98% on the installation. I managed to fish out the speedo cable housing without entirely removing the tank. That will not be possible for those whose cable housing is routed tightly along the frame or zip-tied excessively. By changing the connectors on the Speedhuts instead of the V11 harness, I eliminated probably 90% of the provided wiring and several bulky connectors. I used the individual inverters that each have a single connector, so no bundles of unused connectors. I did not use the *dimmer* as it does have a chain of eight connectors and the potentiometer itself is not weatherproof at all. Just looked too bulky and unreliable to me. It is revealing that the V11 wiring (and connections) differ on the Veglia versus the ITI. It appears the Veglia wiring is easier to convert because of the spade connections. Turning my attention to the final weather proofing.

Hopefully, Cdogger's issue is as simple as the weak contacts inside the tail light. But, there is this (*perhaps* not directly related to Cdogger's tail light): I have always thought Fuse#6 is fed from the Ignition Switch and there is no relay to the tail light, tag light, instrument illumination, and *city* light (all together, I would call these the "running lights"). That's the way it looks on the wiring screamatic. So, I just wired in my new Speedhut gauges and used the existing gauge illumination wiring to light the faces. Pulling Fuse 6, I expected the faces to go dark, but *NO* - they stay on. Along with the tail light/tag light/city light ("running lights")! All on with no Fuse 6. It was late and I managed a fitful sleep with awkward dreams of crossed wires and *what-could-I-have-possibly-screwd-up*. What I came up with: pulling the Headlight Relay (#2). All the other lights go out and the "running lights" stay lit. With no Relay#2, pulling Fuse 6 extinguishes the "running lights" as expected. Apparently, there is a redundant circuit that lights the Running Lights if there is relay failure. Yet, the Running Lights also get lit through Relay#2. But how? I don't see that on the screamatic . . .

Pretty cool. In less than 24 hours, we can conclude everyone here knows the difference between a *porkchop* and a -> stiletto Next time I ride the Sport, I'll have that badass Eagles song in my head . . . "You - get - what'ever - you - choo'ooose."

Just based upon how Goofman's 1200SPORT absolutely hemorrhaged oil from a leaky valve cover (I know it's a different motor), I would expect oil to be pouring/pumping into the valve/rocker area. Why isn't it ?

*Again, please note the early V11 (white face) Veglia wiring and the later (black face) ITI wiring differs. Look at Scud's wiring posts (Post 13, page 1) for the ITI. All of mine are for the early V11 (1999-2002) Veglia wiring connections. I did modify the Speedhut gauge harnesses more than the V11 harness, eliminating almost all of the extra wire and connectors. [above] Both gauges combined to male spades: black -> black (ground); white with yellow marker -> yellow (needle illumination); red-> red/black (gauge power) [NOTE: it would be easy to reverse the two power connectors and the gauges will not have to reboot after cranking as Kiwi_Roy has emphasized. NOTE#2: I did this and it is MUCH better! Thanks to Kiwi_Roy! ] [above] Tachometer (RPM) signal: [shortened] yellow/green -> yellow/black V11 ECU wire.

The "tag light" is also wired with the tail light. Very easy to see if the tag light is burning and the tail light is not.

Our Ignition Switch is worth the attention and, as Kiwi_Roy often says, "It's easy." [A: yes; B: yes; C: no] An AGM battery at 12.55v is little over 75% state of charge. Odyssey is adamant that the battery should be charged with at least 6 amps and 14.2 volts to bring it back to 100% (12.84v). Always discharge before charging.

+1 on also posting in the other thread with a link back here.

If the city light and instrument lights are on, it's really common that the bulb contacts inside the tail light get bent too far in. You can get hold of them with a probe or such and reshape them to make positive contact with the bulb. Very common V11 failure.

Have you tried the link provided by guzzidiag for Windows?

Like that ad says: "...the Scura's matte black and carbon fiber are, simply put, works of art." Some people will never understand art. Knew that about the production, but had never noticed it in advertising before. Having collected a good bit of the *advertising* and press releases and such: The printed matter is even more *transitional* than the well known changes through the model years. My 2000 Sport was shown at EICMA in 1997.

Now, we all know Moto Guzzi *blends* between the years . . . both in advertising content and actual production . . .

Exhibit B: *stilettos* come hot, as delivered. porkchops have to be grilled with added BBQ sauce.

Wot colour?

Will the H4 LED units with a heat sink work just as well then?