docc

I was fortunate to hear Wayne explain this in person. OMRON also warns against operating relays in the presence of silicone (gas) which is apparently formed when dielectric grease heats. Wayne led me to think of it as applying a layer of glass to the contacts. Silicone grease is good for brake parts according to gstallons!

oooh, IDK . . . . but, 12.6v is too low to expect your V11 to charge it happily. *Condition* your AGM battery when it drops to 12.65v (85%) charging with at least 6 amps to 14.8v. Gosh, it would be nice if it charged at 14.2 volts . . . *Always* discharge the battery before charging or starting (turn the lights on a couple minutes). This has been a hard procedure for me to swallow, but there you have it. Discharge before doing anything (start or charge).

HAHA! SWEET! And with the door open. Livin' on the edge, there, buddy!

Something else I learned from members on the site is to apply "zip-ties" gently, and not cinch them down tightly. Allow a little give and slide, avoid creating heat sinks and work hardening in the wiring , and not risk crushing the cable housings.

There is this excerpt in the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist: >Find the straightest, gentlest routing for the speedometer cable. Make sure it is not crimped, kinked, or bent. If you have an early V11 with the white face Veglia, service those bevel drives, especially the one at the gear box (the upper is attached to the back of the speedometer itself). Make sure the brass insert is pressed well into the body of the drive and consider permanently sealing the metal disc before it goes missing along with the internal worm gear!

I'm searching for posts now. Here's one, mostly about the bevel drives: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17624&p=187729

ooh, that's sneaky . . . missed it! And , believe me, I looked!

That worried me, too . . . But, look closely in the second photo in front of the (gorgeous!! ) V11 on the workbench: I spy a rubber handle with a red shank. Could it be ?

All the changes are posted above in Post # 20. Not sure why Relay#1 changed so much. Figure I'll recheck this repeatedly and try to get a better understanding what may have changed.

Yep, especially the throttle body balance!

Haha - right? And a *California-Light* . . . sweeeeet!

That makes perfect sense, that it is not entirely water, but contains some sort of media. The result seen in the pictures is really impressive.

I used my IR reader while curing the zinc chromate on my alternator cover. We used it at one Spine Raid to read Rear Drive temps. A myriad of uses, many of them V11!

I think my handy little reader goes for thirteen bucks. Probably less at HF. I've used it a lot!

You can use the listed high current G8HE-1C7T-R-DC-12 in all the positions The #1 position must have the "C" in the number (5-pin/ SPDT).

Chuck and dangerous: both your V11 have pretty significant exhaust and intake changes?

That is really interesting. It looks really good! How does the process treat the metal instead of just stripping the finish?

Nice, Neil! (and not a single *knockometer* in sight!) Raw aluminum for the cases and such?

Preliminary, inconclusive, but perhaps encouraging infrared temperature readings posted in the "Hot" Relay thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19601&p=216755

I seen the FLIR case for smartphones. Does it give an actual quantified temperature or just a color scale?

Arriving home (just eleven miles with a stop for fuel), and Relay#5 was cooler yet (126ºF). Lots of variables here, no doubt. But it's easy to be encouraged by something besides just the spec sheet!

InfraRed temperature readings with the new high capacity G8HE relays: New Relay (previous 9 year old G8HN OMRON) #1 88ºF 115ºF #2 112º 115º #3 96º (and rising while in neutral) #4 114º 125º #5 138º 147º (Again, my headlights do not run through the front relays as on factory wired early Sports.) I suppose we could conclude that Relay#5 runs a good 20ºF/7ºC hotter than #4. Yeah, you can feel that difference without putting your lips on it. A "weaker" relay in the #5 position could, theoretically, get even hotter.

Chuck is correct. Only Position #1 *needs* to be 5-pin. Best one to use across the board: G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12/Z5645-ND/2755412

ooooh - that's High Zoot! As rabbit's feet go, I see there are 10 extra relays in my monkey-paw trap. Little electrical talismen!

And, I just want to go on record about this whole "cage" business: I find it very reassuring to know who's going to get the pizza!