docc

That is my understanding. Make your selection based upon your computer's operating system and processor architecture (Not the bike's computer, the computer you are using to interface with the ECU software). As I am not the expert to answer this, I welcome clarifications or corrections! Thanks Docc. That's what I had done. I made my first attempt to run Gizzi Diag yesterday and couldn't get any Com ports to list in the Guzzi Diag Settings window. My older Mac Book has two usb ports and neither would work. I thought perhaps I might have loaded the wrong drivers. Also the cable light comes on (red not blue as in the pic) when I plug in to the usb port even if it's not connected to the battery with the alligator clips. I've also downloaded the IAW15xreader and IAW15xwriter files but I have no idea what the hell they are and whether I really need them. Cheers! John (Confused in East Richmond Heights) Any luck? Where did you source the OBD -> USB cable? If this is not a solution, I will move these posts to the main ECU Diagnostics and reprogramming thread to get some expert response.

SW Germany? I've long wondered what it would be like to ride between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Mandello del Lario . . .

It's looking like "heat issues" are more a function of contact ratings, "thermal conduction path for contact heat", and load. Looking forward to installing the higher rated OMRON G8HE and re-testing temperatures. I would think that lower temperatures = *better* relays.

That must be the finest selection of bulky gloves and Muk-luks-cum-two-strokes ever recorded!

Please do this simple *easy livin' test* (continuity from Fuse5 to Relay#1) on your V11 and post results , and let's see if we can nail down where the wiring may be different or may have changed.

"Livin' Easy Test" (for Relay #1): *If* your #1 Starter Relay is "livin' easy" , the only really stressed relay is #5 [Fuel injection/ignition/fuel pump relay in Position #5 moves over 20 amps in the NO position]. Use a serious relay in Position #5, rated over 20 amps NO >Continuous Carry Current<. [ OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 ] #2 (headlights etc) isn't getting off particularly easy, but any any "high quality" relay rated 20 amps NO should do okay there. Here's an easy way to see if your (later V11) Relay#1 is livin' easy : Pull Fuse 5, and Relay #1. With an Ohm meter, check continuity between the Fuse connector (outboard) and contact 30 for the relay (also outboard). Failed test = continuity. You have the *stressed* #1 Relay moving over 10 amps through the NC contacts >Continuous Carry Current<. Use a High Current Relay in Position #1 (rated over 10 amps in the NC position). [ High Current OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 ] If Fuse 5 is continuous to Relay#2/contact 30 (outboard) instead, your #1 Relay is livin' easy , but you're starting the V11 through the Ignition Switch (Beware of "Startus Interruptus", plus the Ignition Switch should always be cleaned and kept serviced, regardless):

Sounds like that could depend on your wiring. I've always been in the camp that the V11 relays are a critical fail point in the system and it is desirable to use the very best " 5-pin" relays across the range of positions. This way, they can be moved around to any position. Assuming this High Current G8HE OMRON relay is commonly available, why not use the highest rated relay available, assuming the cost is nominal ? (I just spent $38US/ shipped for five relays) EDIT 19 Jan 2017: best (US) source I have found so far ($3.08US each): http://www.onlinecomponents.com/omron-electronics-g8he1c7trdc12.html?p=42670683&utm_source=findchips&utm_medium=inventoryrefferal&utm_campaign=findchips

I'm not at all sure about attachment, but here is a thread with details of the underside of the early V11 Chin Pad.

Really interesting *Scura* accent an the Champagne LeMans fairing!

I ran across one of Kiwi_Roy's earlier posts (http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=201362), where he measured various loads in these circuits and Relay#5 is carrying 22.5 amps. No wonder Relays rated for 20 amps suffer there (and get hot). I have temperature readings on mine, so it may be an indicator if this higher rated OMRON runs cooler. Thanks, Kiwi_Roy!

Have you answered your own question before asking it, Grasshopper?

I just connected and saw the same thing, initially (no COM ports to choose from). Once the cabling is connected (mine doesn't have a light), open preferences, select "file" and click "connect." The COM port selection should populate then (?), and you'll be prompted to switch on the ignition. Otherwise, I would be concerned that your OBD connector is not properly FTDI chipped.

Here is the spec sheet on this relay. It appears to have significantly higher ratings including 20 amps continuous carry current on the Normally Closed side (35 amps continuous on the NO side, and MUCH higher inrush ratings). This is the most robust micro relay I have seen specs on. http://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-g8he.pdf It looks to have very slightly larger case dimensions, including 1.6mm taller, so make sure your seat has the clearance for them: https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/search/?cat=1&did=6&prd=auto-iso&lang=en

That is my understanding. Make your selection based upon your computer's operating system and processor architecture (Not the bike's computer, the computer you are using to interface with the ECU software). As I am not the expert to answer this, I welcome clarifications or corrections!

I see these OMRON on Amazon, but can't seem to generate their spec sheet: High Current G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Relays-Relay-12VDC-piece/dp/B00M1ZLJIE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484616006&sr=8-4&keywords=spdt+mini+relay

My 100,000 miles twin-plate clutch is really noisy at idle in neutral, but it's more of a *rattle* than a "knock." Even with the clutch pulled in, yours sounds odd? Like a scraping? Is there a typical "throw out bearing" in this set-up?

+1 with what Marty said. Hang in there, man! One of my treasured riding buddies rode until he was 81. He was an inspiration.

I knew you guys would come through! "NC" and "NO" make perfect sense now, along with why their ratings differ. And now: a sacrificial relay! If I understand correctly, (on early V11), the 10 amp NC contacts are carrying the current through Relay #1 ("Starter" Relay) to power the 20 amp NO contacts in Relay #2 ("Headlight" relay) which includes the headlamp, horns, warning lights, brake light, tachometer, and charging reference. **[EDIT: This is only the case with a *Stressed* Relay#1. Do the Easy Livin' Test to see if your Relay #1 is Stressed , or Livin' Easy ]** (I realize the vendor says the Panasonic is 20amp/35amp, but that is the "swtiching" rating, not the continuous current rating: 10a NC/20a NO continuous)

a legacy of hammers. And mercury sticks . . .

The desert, the sky, the Scura, the Joshua tree . . . all in B&W! That ticks all the boxes!

00 Buck = "patina" . . . yeah, buddy!

The Wildebeest say, nay, not that (holiday) weekend. I may, still, plot an intercept course . . .

Since only the #1 ("Starter") relay uses both outputs (5-pin/ SPDT/ Form C), this is the Panasonic 5-pin the "1 FORM C" contact arrangement. [also known as a CO ("change over" contact arrangement) showing both NO and NC ratings] I'm trying to discern what part of the Panasonic relay is only rated for 10 amps continuous? edit: [Answer: the NC contact which would not be good for Relay#1 in the early V11.] Panasonic spec sheet: