docc

WOW, Pete ! Thanks for the fabulous reply. It's not just anyone who will surrender their nasty kludges! Curiously, Goofman and I had this conversation about the oil check procedure being *apparently* different. The English translation in the V11 manual says to "screw it (the dipstick) up." Since I've been doing this (screwing things up) all my life (mechanically and otherwise ), this just seems natural to me . . .

hahahaahaha! Too freakin' funny . . . . "Stay away from the bassman, ladies . . . . "

The last time we went over it was at breakfast meet-up and I pulled the laptop from the Sport's pannier and cabled in to the 1200. Drew a little crowd! I decided to "re-set the learning parameters" last thing after all else was complete, so I'm supposing that is all good. While he reported the bike running much better, idling smoother it did still "hang its idle" a few times after. It's due an air filter and I am left to wonder if it's on its original since it's a bit of a fuss to get to. Goofman is actually braving the wet roads to ride here today, so I'll ask how it's running these days. Don't feel alone on the achy-brain, Pete!

Same back to ya, there, buddy! And a quart-a-day to you, too! We'll leave it up to our NZ bro's to find the perfect time of year for a SpineRaid there! I'm just sayin' there ought to be a *SpineRaid* in "your" neighborhood, where-ever you are!

Success! I couldn't get to the "back" (bottom?) of the volume pots, so sprayed the top side (sparingly) with CRC Electronics Cleaner whilst giving them a twist. Followed up with the CaigDeOxit (since there was "no one to stop me this time"), and *vee-oh-la!* - no more scratchy discharge when the pots are moved after being still for a time. Also, "cleaned and treated" all the 1/4"phono jacks for my cords. Sounding good for New Year's Eve! Happy New Year!

Or as Dr. Mark Barnes, who writes for Motorcycle Consumer News, has said (and I paraphrase), "[it's not so much superstition as] the palliative resolution of cognitive dissonance." It's New Year's Eve, weather in the northern hemisphere is "turning off" and we are not far from new "meetings" threads: The Far'teenth South'n Spine Raid and The Inaugural Akaroa Spine Raid Stay tuned, and keep your eagles into the wind! Happy New Year!

I'm still a bit mystified why Goofman's Sport doesn't always idle where (I thought) it was set. Seems in the hotter weather it would gather itself up to around 2000 rpm at times. I'm sure I'm missing something in the procedure, but couldn't find the right hammer to set it right . . .

That's great to know! At some point, I *ruint* the rearward fastener or its attachment struggling to get them out . . .

Now I'm havin' trouble feelin' sorry for ya. Ya had me goin' there for a while . . .

Dunno. Found that pic online. Ampeg stuff! Too cool! Got pic of yours?

On the failure of the fuel pump to prime, also be aware of the extra blade (spade) connectors UNDER the fuse block for the front two fuses only (#1: ECU/ #2: Fuel Injection/Pump). These can loose connectivity and affect the activation of the #4 ECU Relay and #5 Fuel Injection/Pump Relay.

Something like this?

It's an awful lot of fun when people ask, "Who works on your bike?" to reply, "There's guy in The Netherlands that keeps it running!"

Sheesh , I should probably post this as well . . . :oldgit:

Replace all five. There was some thinking that the last two weren't that important, but #5 runs the fuel pump constantly and may actually stay the hottest. All five relays, five-pin OMRONS, carry your others for extras in case you meet up with other V11 and they need *assistance* . . .

Sounds like I should take the back panel off and carefully put the amp on its top and see what I can see. Interesting the Caig "Gold" is very "oily."

Yeah, but I probably can't cock-up my nasty, old V11 *much* spraying anything on it (I think I proved this with zinc chromate ) . . . Can I just spray the pots? From the top? or take off the back panel and hit them from the bottom? Will it seep in?

Really looking forward to seeing what you find! With all the Chook-made LookyPhil Shift-binkies out there now, the whole "90º" thinking may have to be re-thought!

I can see that, mechanically, applying maximum leverage on a drum brake at the engagement point is ideal. Yet, as Scud points out, this mechanism has to balance its action between upshift and downshift. The 90º positions (at rest) should be the best compromise.

Now that Moto Murphy's LeMans starts every time, he's moving on to other issues. Looks like the relays are still Siemans. Best relays are OMRON: http://www.digikey.com/products/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND Here's one of the main reasons I keep saying that: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=133211

There should be an understandable hierarchy of tool grades. Something like: >HF & Chinee online >Local hardware store >Tool truck/ Professional Quality >Marine Grade >Aviation Approved >Space Program unobtanium-made

I finally broke down and got a tiny spray can of Caig DeOxit Gold to cheer up the Sport's electrics. The volume pots on the Bassman are pretty scratchy. Can I get some of the magic juice into them without the caps blowing me into the nearest parallel dimension?

And those V11 are going through the roof. Someday soon. Well, pretty soon, I'm sure. Sooner or later?

Is that like "marine grade" for people who are afraid of falling?

Got some photos, there, buddy? There are several known factors important to the external shift mechanism . . .