docc

Then there is the P51 Mustang comparison . . .

brlawson's posts of Little Feat led me to this Robert Palmer cut - better not turn the Fender Bassman on at this hour!

Hey! I *resemble* that remark! (I update my mileage on my profile, but do not have the highest mileage V11 in the world by quite a lot . . . that would be AY)

I gots me a can of zinc chromate and I ain't afraid to use it! (Well . . . a little afraid . . . )

That's awesome! In an age of Rossi's fresh helmet design for every race. Right? Just think how much faster The Wildman would be if he would only primer his helmet or *take a decent sh*t!*

That's almost exactly what I paid for my Sport! Amazing, even with the dustbin fairing, that bike looks smaller than a Ducati 916!

I always heard it was surplus Italian military aircraft primer and Ing. Carcano didn't want the *extra* weight of a top coat. Weren't the fairings aluminum? They would still require some protection form corrosion, yes?

I don't think you can stop a gearoil drip with PBR. Try something dark and smoky from Blueboarhound"s selections in "Mmmmmmmm - beer!" Those drain plugs have a "crush washer?" Maybe time for a fresh one? Ya think?? Although a cheap Guzzista might try to make one out of a PBR can. Oh, BTW, that sump gasket is $3.64 from Cheeshead and Gordon. I'm about to replace my *original* sump gasket (100,000 miles). I've been saving one in an old Triumph calendar for years. (I hope that didn't ruin it!) So, I'll be looking for some sump gasket advice in the near future. . . . by "Cheesehead and Gordon," you mean . . . MGCycle?

What with the early origins of Moto Guzzi arising from allegiances made in the Italian Air Corps of WWI, and the Moto Guzzi eagle taken from those origins (in honor of Guzzi and Parodi's fallen comrade, Ravelli), it is no wonder that Moto Guzzi seem "aircraft-like." "Piloting" my sport is as close as I am likely to get to *flying* . . . [Never mind those dubious soldered connectors!] Today, riding the long way to work, I felt so connected to the ride, to the Sport, it occurred to me that I have some serious "hours logged" piloting this machine. I've known some aircraft pilots and remember them speaking of certain significant break points in hours piloting a particular aircraft. My rough math (remember, both Dr. Venkman and I are "bad scientists"): about 100,000 miles averaging about 40 mph = 2500 hours. It's really good to feel ZGUKRAKR/YM-Sport rated!

I don't think you can stop a gearoil drip with PBR. Try something dark and smoky from Blueboarhound"s selections in "Mmmmmmmm - beer!" Those drain plugs have a "crush washer?" Maybe time for a fresh one?

The Sport was really only down a couple days while I whacked into its electrics (again). It threw me a couple curves trying to start it back up, but once rolling it acted like a huntin' dog cut loose after all summer in the pen. Just happy-happy-happy! I can't tell if the bike really ran that much better or it was something in my brain . . .

FWIW, the Guzzi parts .pdf I have lists three different numbers for the (silent) blocks to mount the ECU (93221315), coil bracket (93222020), and instrument bracket (93222021). I can see the ECU blocks are much smaller than the coil blocks.

I'm not sure I answered this very well. The HRN (horn) fuse and silver (headlight) circuit breaker get dedicated hot feeds from the terminal block. It does not stay "bare," but has a cover. Also visible is the rubber guard over the corner of the ECU which covers its ground and is vulnerably close to the positive battery terminal. The terminal block holds the hot feeds for the horns, headlights, GPS, SAE accessory plug, power to Fuses 4 & 5, and a clamping point (capped in red) for direct charging or voltage readings since the positive battery terminal itself is not very accessible. Beyond the wiring, but still electrical: labels for the row of OMRON High Current relays, relocated signal flasher, detailed fuse function chart (inverted for roadside viewing), and [CarlAllison] wiring diagram in the tool tray.

I never seem to have any fresh "Super-Glue" (cyanoacrylate) and recall there is a urethane "Super-Glue" product perfect for this application. I have tried toluene based contact adhesive (ie: GOOP or Shoe-Goo) with marginal results. Today, I used fast setting 2-part epoxy, but it set my repair behind a couple hours. (It would be nice to have a few spares on hand). What kind of adhesive is "Seal-All?" McMaster-Carr lists seven different M6 Vibration-damping sandwich mounts. This size looks the closest to the ECU mounts: M6 31 0.07" 4.5 0.06" 5/8" 5/8" 1/2" 3/16" 9232K13 2.17 9241K43 2.17 ^ ^ But, whether to go "natural rubber" or "Urethane?"

Thanks, Aniquar! Those certainly look like the ones. Am I correct that these are the same isolators for the coils, instruments, and ECU? I'm putting this discussion, started by Tom M, in its own thread and adding the MGCycle link to the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist. Well done, guys!

Are the rubber mounting spacers still used in the inverted (upverted?) position? Yes the rubber mounts are still needed. Tarbaby stuff! I had to remove the ECU again to get to the wire I left off and, of course, two more mounts separate. As iI recall, these are the same mounting blocks for the coils? And for the instruments? I keep using adhesives to put them back together, but I'm sure they're past their "use by" date. Someone had sourced replacements (maybe from McMaster-Carr?) . . . anyone recall the source? (closest I could find/ "Metric, cylindical to 713 kgf): http://vibrationmounts.com/Store.asp?Page=Products1.htm )

Looking like you have five or six new uncles!

Soooo . . . . turns out you don;t need a fire extinguisher if there is no power to back half of the fuse block. Seems, from the wiring diagram, that power to fuses 4 and 5 must trunk off of the battery wire to Fuse 3 which I replaced with a dedicated, separate wire outside the loom. Looks like I need to fish that terminal out from where it's stowed and reconnect it. Good thing I didn't clip it off at the loom . . . EDIT: Yes, that restored power to the Ignition Switch. And I still have 14.2 volts charging.

Thanks, Chuck! Looking to start it up in a couple hours. Guess I oughta have that fire extinguisher handy . . .

Gentleman, I want to thank you all for all of your insight, education, and encouragement. Let's face it, what I'm posting isn't "rated" for anything. *Entertainment Value Only* *Don't Try This At Home* The last time I thought I "fixed" this problem, it took like eight years to fail. So, let me get back to you in about 2025 with an update. Seriously? Do not neglect your #3 / 30 amp, "regulator" fuse. They are are known to overheat.

A guy likes to think he's doing a good job, then he finds out he shouldn't be working on airplanes!