docc

Outstanding! While we're in that neighborhood, just a reminder to all of one the V11's eight Achilles' Heels : Be certain this fastener stays tight and, just as importantly, check that the the large upper fastener is properly torqued to the surprisingly high 70 Nm . . .

If you can get to the connector, simply unplug it and check resistance through the switch with an Ω meter. Should be Normally Closed and go open when the plunger is pressed. With the switch correctly positioned, the adjustable bolt head should press the plunger to open the switch with the stand down . . . (Looking for an image to depict the whole Rube Goldberg affair, in situ . . .)

Good question, @Yam350! They are completely separate. The clutch switch prevents starter engagement when open. When functional, it is pressed "open" when the lever is not pulled in (clutch engaged), and is Normally Closed when the lever moves away from the switch (clutch disengaged). The Side Stand switch provides power to the Run Switch with the bike in gear. The switch closes with the side stand up. When the stand is down, the switch pressed "open" and bike will only run through the Neutral Switch/ Middle relay. Since the bike can run in gear through the Side Stand Switch, it is the clutch switch (or the operator!) that prevents the bike from starting in gear. If your bike runs in gear regardless of the Side Switch Position, either (yes) it is faulty, or some previous owner has defeated it along the course of the wiring.

Weekend after US Labor Day in September (6th-8th), Tellico Plains, Tennessee. Even Honda are welcomed, but may leave with a prominently featured Moto Guzzi sticker on the fairing . . .

Our V11 Sport/LeMans relays, and the vulnerable "relay bases", have derived solutions: Those who carry on with sub-standard relays or keep playing "relay roulette" just didn't get the memos . . .

Once (re)connected, a series of voltage checks to confirm charging voltages will help diagnose the regulator. Establishing the battery's state of charge could be a factor, as well.

Split posts to see that @Admin Jaap has started the Twentieth South'n Spine Raid thread:

Posts split here from:

Gonna hafta to put the luggage back on the Griso, @KINDOY2 . . .

I love this plan!

Turns out, the SpineFrame V11 Sport/LeMans is an arachnid. That is the only explanation how it could have eight "Achilles' Heels " . . .

Another hey-up on inspecting stator wires. As this failure progresses, the voltage spikes will destroy the regulator and damage the relays (even the Best Relays). . . Also, be certain to inspect the two "bullet connectors" for the yellow stator output wires. Clean, tighten, Caig DeOxit®, and seal (heat shrink). When replacing the regulator, groom the wiring and connectors so the regulator can be easily accessed and changed next time . . .

That reminds me to remind y'all to service your battery terminals and the Main Negative/Earth cable connection to the back of the gearbox behind the seat latch . . . There it is, hiding from us, between the seat latch and the gearbox vent! Neglect this at your peril . . .

Sure, while your at it, test the voltage output of the "alternator." Inspect the two yellow wires where they attach to the stator under the alternator cover for breakage and/or heat damage. Be certain your regulator has a dedicated ground strap from the case to the timing chest and the connections are cleaned and "treated." Inspect the 30 amp regulator/charging fuse for signs of heat damage. (Might benefit from more than one point of correction.)

Any hopes our Man-on-the Street , @v11_meticcio, might make EICMA this year ? ? ? Qualche speranza che il nostro Uomo della Strada , V11_metticio, possa partecipare all'EICMA quest'anno?

Sounds lovely. I've always had good food and service at the Tellicafe.

Haha, well, I recall an anecdote of a dealer contacting the factory about a Guzzi running badly at 3200 rpm. The factory replied that they were aware of the issue and would email the solution. The solution? "Do not ride the motorcycle at 3200 rpm. "

Yeah, someday, I would like to smooth these corners out. Especially that ridiculous ignition advance in the low rpm at low throttle opening . . .

This has me wondering if the short, unshielded end of the shaft forward allows the (otherwise unexplained) easier access to the front uni-joint Zerk in some V11. Anyone else with a shaft oriented this way?

With the short/female section of the shaft forward at the gearbox, is the shaft Zerk accessible behind the safety collar? And, perhaps more to the point, is the front uni-joint Zerk more easily accessed with this shaft orientation?

"Sometimes, I get a bigger hammer. Hoo, getta bigger hammer " . . .

Sorry for the hurried reply. Same as @rydfly's images. Same as @MartyNZ reported.

Same driveshaft orientation here.

Running a 170 would likely give a rounder, more natural, profile on the 5.5" rim offering a smooth, predictable turn-in and more even wear. Probably somewhat easier to mount and a little lighter than the 180. Cons? It won't look as big and wide. I have the early Sport with the even narrower 4.5" rim, so perhaps members with the later V11 will chime in with more experienced feedback . . .

Are heated jackets and such popular there, in Norway, @Tomchri?