docc

Heh - , well, I suppose I should have said, "If you average abut 36.5 miles per US gallon, use up rear tires in about 4,200 miles, and ride as smoothly as a tracked vehicle pushing down trees (like me) , your rear brake pads may only last about 10,000 miles." If, on the other hand, you ride like the wind, the rear brake is only being used to space the wheel off the swingarm, and you only slow down for lunch, you get something like five times that out of them!

I found the Brembo pads at Moto International after sussing out that the Brembo caliper is #F05. I know they won't last as long as the more aggressive pads, but I better start treating that rear rotor like I'm waltzing with your gran-ma! I did want to post this reminder that the service interval on the rear brake pads, fluid change, and piston/pin service is pretty limited even if you don't "use" your rear brake much.

Yeah, seems some sintered metal pads have a lot more, or even more "aggressive," metal than others. I thought the EBC were pretty hard on my original front rotors. Mind you, my original rear rotor is pretty rough as well. I recall the Brembo, although also sintered metal pads, *seemed* gentler than these. Surely they (Brembo rear pads) are a common fitment?

Worked the two pistons in and out using brake cleaner. The shop smells like a dry cleaner that serves beer. The inside (inboard) piston is always the most sticky, and the pad guide pin was rusty already. Buffed it out and applied silicone grease. Tomorrow, will remove the caliper, turn the bleeder to the top and replace the fluid. I won't put the EBC back in. Any US sources of replacement Brembo for the rear brake would be appreciated . . .

What's the battery voltage, key on? Does the headlight come on with the key? What's the voltage after the lights are on two on three minutes?

Sounds like a dead battery (maybe combined with several dirty/corroded connections). Do you have a "good" digital voltmeter?

The EBC say "Made in USA" and I've used them before, but I don't like how aggressive they are (at least the HH). The pads on the right are the Volar Motorsport referenced in post#1. They seem more "organic" while the EBC have turned shiny, metallic, and full of spaces and gaps. Struggling to find Brembo replacements.

Ignition Switch is the one with the key, Run Switch is by the right "grip" above the starter button. You must pull in the clutch while starting. What do you hear?

Comes time to have a look at the rear brake, well known on the V11 to eat pads, stick pistons, and hydrate its own fluid. Normally, I don't expect rear pads to last beyond 10,000 miles, and these EBC HH (left) are at 11,000. While the pad material is not *gone* (let's realize these pads don't have much material to begin with), the surface looks to have turned to metal. The cheap Chinese pad is pictured on the right with only 3,700 miles, but are actually fine (thickness and appearance). I'd really like to go back to Brembo rear pads, but where to find them in the USA?

I hope I'm putting all these fluids in the right places. At the right times . . .

What is the status of the fuel in the tank? Did you drain it and refill? If so, cycle the run switch several times. You should hear the fuel pump whir each time. Yes?

There is a "torque it to the manufacturers specs" for the oil filter? I have been relying on Ryland3210's work looking into this and use his recommendation to tighten one and one-eighth turn after gasket contact. I'll admit it is much tighter than I would have naturally tightened an oil filter. There is a torque spec for the V11 oil filter? I don't see it in the Workshop Manual?

It was a Wix 51215 with a square rubber O-ring. I have a new pump waiting to go in. The old one was scored up a bit. There are 2-3 tiny (~0.5mm) pits on the crankcase surface of the pump as well. I don't think they will hurt. I am completely tearing down the engine. At this point the only thing left together is the oil regulator and I have yet to get the studs out of the crank case. Ouch - that's the filter I use. If I may ask, what did you use for a tightening procedure? I ask because I was raised in the era of "tighten by hand" or "finger tight . . . . " for automotive-type canister filters.

True concerns about the UFI filters, and any filter with round section gasket (rather than flat). Craig, what kind of filter fell off?

That is one of the most informative, and concise, writings on the subject I have yet seen. It's the first time I have read that higher Zn/P were predicated by the lead in the fuels.

Jeez, man . . . I need a beer. You should have one, too . . . It will be very interesting to learn if that crank can be saved. Best of luck with this all!

"Exceeding" a prior rating is all about meeting the most current specification. These days, that means making catalytic converters last beyond the manufacturer's replacement obligation (75,000 miles?). Yet, it is the anti-wear ZDDP that keeps our air-cooled, flat tappet Guzzi motors in the blond that has been systematically reduced. True SG is an enigma, as is finding true ester Group 4 base oil. These things will always be more important than the viscosity range from what I can read and learn and try to understand. From there, we're left to frequent changes, use filters with box-section gaskets (not "O-rings), cinch them 1 1/8 turns from the gasket contact and consider the hose-clamp method. If I were going to use a 5-40, I would look for a diesel rating to get the anti-wear package (CI-4/CJ-4), like Mob1 TurboDiesel or similar. Again, no idea what base oil that actually uses. Always great to check in with Richard Widman on oil for air-cooled flat tappet engines (Corvair). His opinions are factually based and much applies to our big block Guzzis: http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html

I'd really enjoy romping around upriver from Marietta and the Wayne National Forest; ride the ferry to Sistersville, W.Va.

I have had to trailer recover my 100,000 mile V11 once (*knock-on-wood/touch-the-stone-glass* ) as one of my stator wires had gone agly. Otherwise, V11 are known to be resilient beasts. If one has a full set of spare OMRON relays and some simple hand tools on board. It's just that I want to show up in this one day:

Shoot, Joe - I saw you posted on this thread and came looking for the pic of your new V11! Hey, if you don't mind, post that same offer in the V11 Fuel Tanks thread : http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19572

This year's Tech Session? "How to get your V11 where you want to ride without riding where you don't want to ride."

Crap! People often want to say, "Watch out on that motorcycle, drivers won't see you." To which I oft reply, "Those are the same people that pull in front of trains or fire trucks running lights and siren." Hope you get get your big, metal "camping tent" all squared away for the Spine Raid!