docc

Bill, having never seen your "Hotdog&Mustard," this will be a treat!

I looked, but could not find any specification of the base oil in the Lucas 20-50. The first 30,000 miles I used Castrol GTX 20-50 mineral oil, then Mobile1 15-50 for just a couple changes (like many, my confidence in their products is not what it once was), then then Lucas 2-50 50,000 miles or so, with a couple brief flirts with Mob1 5-40 Turbodiesel (high ZDDP), and Mob1 V-Twin SG when the Lucas was unavailable. Avoiding "Energy Conserving" oils is something I picked up from Pete Roper, as I recall; something to do with the rings seating on the cylinder walls? @ Jazzamoto, I can't find where Dave Richardson (Guzziology, Version 8.2)) discusses why Guzzi changed the viscosity spec for the later V11? He has a lot of other great advice, though, like , " . . . SG service rating is more important than viscosity selection . . ." and ". . . use an oil that you can find and don't mind changing often . . ." @Colorobo, talking oil is, of course, a never-ending discussion, which isn't a bad thing, just that there will be no final answer. It's easy to say, "Use what the factory specifies." But, either of those viscosities will be fine. I suppose there is some consensus here that the specialized (racing?) oil companies have some great products (in the States: Motul, Agip, Redline, Lucas, Royal Purple . . .) and that those oils are more likely to have the higher anti-wear package (zinc & phosphorous/ ZDDP) that you will not find in conventional, modern passenger car oils because of the deleterious effects on catalytic converters.

Ok, so Colorobo, as you can see, oil is a *can-of-worms*. There is some common ground: change your oil, be careful about the V11 oil filter, *true* synthetic is good, enough ZDDP is important. Avoid anything labeled "Energy Conserving." I use Lucas Motorcycle 20W-50. No idea how to even find out what the "base oil" is. I wish I knew?

That does likely well made next to the typical Japanese "molded in" locator pins that tend to shear off. Who makes this switchgear?

I want-me one of my very own LuckyPhil_Shift-Flickers! Better, even yet, to be Chuck-Done! Sign me up!

More to the point, while early V11 motors use 20W-50 SG (high zinc and phosphorus/ 'ZDDP'), later V11 motors have piston sprayers. Do the piston sprayers require the lower viscosity oil to function properly?

I dream of building something that elegant to relocate my Tekno panniers further forward and lower . . .

I've often found myself thinking the very same thing docc. couldn't describe it better. I'm thinking that the hangy down bits at the rear that resembles two, too big ear lobes, is the culprit. I wouldn't give up the extra fuel residing there for looks though. I've wondered, does the 1100 Spoti tank fit? Is it nylon too? PreV11 Sports have metal tanks. I can see that the "skirts" or "panniers" of the tank shape contribute to its visual mass. Taking the V11 as a whole, especially with monochromatic body parts, I think the design looks like a giant, molten flame being blown by an intense wind from the front. Makes me wanna wrap myself around it and feed it high octane fuel! Why aren't the 2 tank types interchangeable docc? I have 2 of the new type ( 1 second hand and 1 brand new) and a brand new version of the old type, plus the original on my V11 greenie. The new version will fit very easily requiring a small modification to the sub frame mount. I've tried both my new versions on my bike and will use one of these when I fit the Daytona motor. Although I like the old one the new version has much superior and simplified injector plumbing. Speaking of the Daytona engine project, just got my Carrillo rods back from Carrillo after a factory referb, new little end bushes, closed and honed big ends, checked for twist, bend and crack tested for $240us. Good deal for anyone considering. Ciao My over-simplification. They are, indeed, interchangeable, but will require adapting the fuel pump, fuel filter, regulator, and plumbing between the two versions (internal and external pump/etc). What had to be modified on the rear subframe mount to fit the later (internal) tank to the earlier frame?

Thanks, Phil! Makes perfect sense (also why I couldn't visualize it as I have the earlier mechanism).

whew - good - sounds more like Rock-n-Roll than The Blues!

Well . . . how's it going?

I wish I had not read that... Now I want a CF tank for my Scura. This is such a great idea. I can write you a *doctor's note* . . . What could be more Scura?

Wait, what? your selling her ? Oh, nonononnoo! I was replying to the original post there:

There are angles I look at this Marabese designed V11 tank and find it so stunning and compelling. It is certainly like no other, totally unique. Other times, it looks bulbous and odd and oversized. Yet, we are probably entering an era of "preservation" as well as sourcing handcrafted replacements. There are two distinct V11 fuel / gas tanks and they are not simply interchangeable even while they have the same shape/appearance.

I have a timing light, so I suppose I should at least look at the mark and decide if the chain/tensioner should be seen to . . . Otherwise, I'd tell the new owner it's low on the list of concerns.

I figured you did. Good idea. Great subject. comment start #23 here http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19518&page=2 Possibly redundant. this post will self destruct when read.. ? Heh - I considered that, but this links the threads, so let's leave it. Thanks! With the age and construction of these nylon Acerbis tanks, along with the effects of *binary azeotropes* , I hope we can get our options archived.

My Sport has never run better, yet I'm compiling a list of *worries* for the 100k mile mark. I remember it making sense to put a timing mark on the flywheel and watch it with a timing strobe. If it jumps all about, the tensioner (and/or chain) should be suspect. I've also brought up the question (with no answer yet) as to what constitutes high "miles" for those accustomed to kilometers. 100,000 miles seems monumental to us Yanks, but that's "only" 160.000 km. Maybe we should have no worries 'til 200.000 km?

footgoose, I created this thread to bring milar's post and other posts together in one thread. I can't find that post of yours, but would like to link it here. Can you direct me to it?

What made you decide you "needed to upgrade to a Valtek tensioner?" And how would one know, say at around 100,000 miles , that his V11 needed a timing chain?

I can see this thread making it to "How To . . ." I mean, I don't see any hammers in the photos, but I heard Chuck say "hammer."

It's what forums, and The Blues, are for, right? I seem to remember a guy with really (really, really) high miles on his V11 that used to run RL SP Super-light in both the gearbox and the bevel drive. I wonder how that worked out . . . .

See? I feel better about this already!

Deja vu . . . http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=1675

Time for Gearbox and Rear Drive/ Bevel Drive oil changes (over 12,000 miles/ 20.000 km) before the South'n Spine Raid. At the cusp of rolling over 100,000 miles, I've used many different gear oils in these two applications. I have always favored RedLine Shockproof Lightweight (blue) in the Gearbox, but admittedly have used "cocktails" before. I started out using the MG Final Drive oil that had the moly mixed in (apparently a Motul product?), but it became unavailable (seemingly), so I went to RedLine Shockproof Heavy. Through a series of changes, I feel certain I overfilled it and prompted seal leaks that plagued me for a long time. During that time, and since, Ive used a variety of lubricants in the Rear Drive including the addition of a moly additive. Now for The Blues . . . I have a shelf full of various, left-over, high quality gear oils (Agip, RedLine, Mobile1) and even a little moly additive (Kal-Gard) that I ponder making "cocktails" (combinations of remaining lubricants) or doing a fill with a single lubricant that I have enough of. So, Mob1 75-145 GL-5 or RL 80-140 GL-5+ is fine for the Rear Drive (with/ or without the moly additive)? Or too viscous at operating temperature? And for the Gearbox, RedlIne MTL 70W-80 GL-4? Or is that too "light?" (I don't want to munt my gearbox. we have enough threads on that already! ) There is also a bottle of Agip 85W-140 GL-4/5 I'd like to use, but for what? I appreciate all of your insight and input!

When Andy York went to test my Exhaust gas, I freaked because the dealer had told me he wouldn't take those out because they strip the header threads. Andy said, "not likely," and just unscrewed them. The Sport had almost 58,000 miles on it then. That said, I would be inclined to use a little heat around them and maybe some penetrating oil (ATF and acteone mix/ "Ed's Red")