docc

You can't just take it out and measure it?

*Cars*? Oh, "Yer funny. I like you already!" (Yup, this is what a true V11 Guzzisto does when he's trying to put off changing all his fluids . . .)

(Sometimes a guy takes a little stab at humor and sticks a fork right in his own eye . . . ) I'm thinking this bike is gonna work out great for you. Your uncle will be amazed.

Like, check it out: "Cars . . . " http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19326

Sheesh - sorry -I was just feeling a little edgy there for a second . . .

Cars are for punks!

See? This is coming together! Now you just need a good bass man to sit in with that drum set in your avatar . . . http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19248

Hmm . . . "Last active" in 2012 . . .

Is that who made the tank for "Ponti?"

Your exhaust can be "groomed" by releasing all of the fasteners: the header flanges, clamps, center hanger behind the gearbox (inspect the rubber), canister hangers, then re-tightening them a step at a time in a *star pattern* while bumping it gently here and there with a soft mallet to relieve all stress from the exhaust system especially at the header flanges. If that doesn't open that space, something is bent.

The specification is for DOT4, which is fine. There are other options, but not to worry about that now. A couple more important things: remove the wheels and inspect the brake pads (especially the rears as they wear rather quickly). Take the time and care to clean the piston movement in the calipers until all of the pistons move evenly when the pressure is applied. You will have to "block" pistons while working one in and out repeatedly while cleaning with brake cleaner (in a *well ventilated area*) and cleaning and LIGHTLY lubricating the pad pins with silicone grease ONLY. Special tools: clamps and wood blocks to retract brake pistons.

Back to finding a source for a run of alloy tanks? Or just run zero-E fuel? (not an option for everyone, apparently)

Move the shift mechanism through its travel and adjust to the gap at its closest point. I rechecked my notes and I adjusted mine to 0.035" or 0.9mm its not too critical unless its too tight which will be obvious when you run it through the positions on the bench. 1mm or 0.040" would be acceptable I should think. Ciao Ciao I wish I understood better where this gap is set?

Heh -"Mandello West"

We coconut-types can see real pros when we see them - not a single hammer anywhere in sight!

do it docc.... do it! (couldn't find one eating popcorn) Right? Next Tech Session at the South'n Spine Raid? whew - we'll be up all night (again . . .)!

If'n I just had to do a complete motor for my Sport, I would try and recreate the build of the Telaio Rosso V7 Sport that were built in the race shop with the internals all polished and balanced, "blueprinted"even. I had thought that might be on my 100,000 mile to-do list, but looks like I'll just be changing some fluids, replacing a few seals, and thinking about SpeedHut.

Hey, Orson, when is this? (Hoping it's not the weekend of Sept. 9-11 so you can get over the mountains from "Western North Carolina" to the Spine Raid!)

That looks very nicely made. Is it steel of aluminum?

As far as I know, all V11S are susceptible.. True that, although the 2002 seem over-represented. Maybe we need a poll?

I recall there is a method to tighten the filter one and one eighth turns after the gasket touches. Works for me. We all put a layer of oil on the filter gasket first, yes?

I would like to think *vapor lock* and *starter failure* rather than something like spun bearings . I wouldn't write the motor off just yet . . .

I would put on a fresh one and check the pawl arm size for coil binding, but I'm no expert beyond having replaced a broken one once. I think LuckyPhil is our current world expert on the shift mechanism of the V11 series . . .

Yes. "Ponti"

Having dropped my battery basket, I'm not sure there is enough clearance under there for the R/R without the shock spring pressing upon it in full compression. Seems to R/R is in a good place out front in the air, but there are other places for the fuel pump beside, or on top of, the spine frame.