docc

I've been using CRG for quite a long time. Enough to know that their replacement parts are pricey, and their customer service has been good. I asked once about getting "reduced convexity" to get a better view behind (maybe even just on one side). The response was, basically, "They are what they are." So, I use CRG on both sides of two bikes. I can pretty much tell that there is a bike headlight behind me, maybe two. And, no question, that there are bright flashing blue things. "And now, my friend, the first rule of Italian driving . . . "

'lec-trickery fer dummies (like me):

These symptoms don't smack of the clutch switch. While they are common failure points,, and deserve attention, they will lock out the starter but not affect running once started or any of the various lights and tach. Same with the two yellow wires and their marginal (bullet) connectors from the stator. They deserve attention, but won't play these symptoms. Really: Relay #2 (Headlight Relay) that gets its juice from Relay #1 (Starter Relay's "5th pin") and the current through the Sidestand Switch (but NOT the middle relay!) I looked back at my "Flow Chart" (electrickery fer dummies) and can't see how the Run Switch or Sidestand Switch could affect the headlamp or tach. This is Fuse4/ Ignition Switch, Fuse5/ Relay1>Relay2: With the headlamp affected, and the tach, it just stinks of relay 1-2 trouble. Personally, I wouldn't trust anything but high quality OMRON. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND

So, there is no rearward support at all? I've varied the combinations of steel tube spacers and bolt lengths over time to get the fit I like. As well as where to sandwich the lower support along with the exhaust hanger.

I would like to know how to "zero the trims . . ." I guess this MIUG just seems foreign to my (limited) 15M experience and I don;t have the V7 right here to monkey with. Although, the V7 was picked up from the dealer today with "update and parameters reset." $85US Now, we shall see what we shall see, won't we?

Dirty/ faulty Run Switch? (open/clean and inspect the wiring) Bad Relay #1 or #2? (I wouldn't use Chinese relays (BTJM), and be sure the connections in the bases are good) Bypassing/ jumping Relay 3 will also bypass the Sidestand Switch and its wiring. If that proves a solution, carefully inspect the wiring from the sidestand switch to the run switch.

Those are early Tekno and did not have a full "bridge" across the rear, yet (as BMWDAvid says), there should be a "projection" of of each the frames from the bottom rail to attach to the inner side of the fender extension to each of the two bolts below the tail lamp

Sounds like where we'll be ending up. Again, thanks for the excellence. I figure I'll be posting back for contact info on Mark. We've been successful at connecting guzzidiag a couple times, but not every time.

If you want elaboration, it bodes well to ask a proper elaborationist!

Heat related charging issues always bring me back to the 30 amp fuse thing . . . http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=148983

That loop goes to the store at the Gap but not over it. We usually hang there for an hour or so before going on to lunch at the Sunset in Franklin and back over Wayah Rd past Nantahala Lake and again over the Cherohala. Leaving around 9am puts us back around 4pm or so. I seem to recall it is 260 miles or so. (I can check that later by opening the route in Garmin Basecamp).

5speeder with dry alt, single TB. Thanks for the confidence and offer to assist. As you may recall, it's my son's V7 and he's got it to the dealer now. Looks like we won't see it back for a couple weeks. Then, with the trouble so unpredictable and intermittent, we won't know right away if it's changed. To delay matters further, the lad has gathered up a fresh, new MX-5 Miata to keep him entertained. So, I'll report back when we find what the dealer was able to come with. (Again, I suppose my confidence in that avenue is not high). Pete, thanks for your interest and willingness! I'll keep you posted and you can count on me to honor all of those make such a difference for our small community!

Road trip!!!!

Not yet, but what would we do with it?

No expert advice here. I've only used electronics cleaner over the windings, but I don't know if that's a good idea. I've heard there can be issues with the magnetism keeping them separated from the rotor? Curious that the (fragile) yellow wires are red on the stator on the right . . .

The service advisor at the dealer was VERY patient making extensive notes about the erratic, intermittent idle behavior going so far as to accept a video of the bike at its worst. They are super-behind (2 weeks) from some extensive Polaris Razor recall, so we'll have to wait and hope. On a high note, all the new Guzzis on the showroom floor look very nice. While not my style, the V9 has a lot going for it. Yet, it was the Limited Edition V7 Stornello ("scrambler") that impressed the most. What with its proper RedFrame . . .

I'm certainly hoping Friday evening's reverie will cement some natural groups for Saturday's riding. One member has asked me for the Cherohala>Franklin Loop that we've ridden in the past and I emailed him screen shots of the route from Garmin BaseCamp. I also have that route in Garmin .gpx if anyone wants it (pm me and I'll email it). While we also once rode to the Guzzi dealer in Dahlonega, I understand they have closed up shop.

That's awesome! I would have never considered this method. Yet, what is "washing soda?"

Interesting point about the idle value. Seems I find a lot of V11 are idled rather low (IMO) which can be compounded by inaccurate tachometers. My Sport has always been *happier* at a higher idle at which I "believe" it charges better, pumps more oil, and is more "stable." Excepting that I would rather enjoy a lumpy cam-lope idle, I don't think there is a downside to keeping the idle on the high side.

That's just cool to say!

It was originally sourced for a U.S. Army ordinance motor pool in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. I've used it since the 70s for everything metric including a couple Folksvaagens, a Merkur XR4Ti (Ford Sierra), my Hondas and, of course, the V11 Sport. I was even able to source a replacement 6mm open end that I had mistreated and broken. The Hammerite blue 500 gram machinist's hammer in the first picture is from this set. I had refinished the hammer and planned to refinish the entire box, but now I think I should leave it alone (?)

I'm lovin' the coffee table!

Interesting. Looking over my box of Gedore Vanadium hand tools, c.1960, that came to me from my father and brother, it occurred to me: So many of my tools put my mind to All of the people that have ever been at my aid.

It goes to the dealer today so they can do diagnostics and make some attempt at improving it. Confidence levels are less than high.

That's funny . . . my littl'st ball-peen has to stay in a toolbox well away from the other *proper hammers!*