docc

Okay, gotcha. Since the two circuits run in parallel, the Neutral Relay can be jumped 30->87 and effectively bypass the Sidestand Switch (and the Neutral Switch).

Enjoyed turning 99,000 miles (almost 160.000 km) today. Although it was on a commute to work, I've had worse commutes! Angling toward the (US) magical 100,000 miles. Perhaps by (or on!) the Spine Raid. I feel certain Andy York has the highest mileage V11 in the world and I'll never catch him (in more ways than one! ), but it's pretty great to be enjoying this V11 after all these years and miles.

Riding style aside (granted, that is a significant issue), the two most common rear brake issues are old fluid and a sticking piston. But there is another mechanical check: The actuating rod that connects the foot lever to the master cylinder is prone to corrosion/ sticking and needs to be adjusted for a little play between the lever and the master cylinder. Pull back the ribber boot and inspect/ clean/ adjust for play. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18158&p=192643 Part of the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist.

Hmmmm . . . my wiring schematic shows the Sidestand Switch between the Ignition Switch and the Run Switch - no relay. And also the Neutral Switch grounds (earths) both the indicator light (no relay) and pulls in Relay 3. Kiwi_Roy, are you seeing V11 that use a relay for the Sidestand Switch itself? (I can see how jumping Relay 3 would bypass the relay, the neutral switch and the sidestand switch, all. In a pinch, much better than trying to twist sidestand switch wires together!)

See there? Tall tales already! Bring back "evidence!"

Desidinova, I never considered that the activating bolt could be adjusted or removed to leave the Sidestand Switch always closed (on); no need to twist wires together or short the switch! But, you should check: your V11 will start in gear and ride off with the stand down, yes? If your V11 would not otherwise start and run on the sidestand in neutral, it's because either the Neutral switch is faulty (they can sometimes be "cleaned" and/or lubricated), or the middle Relay 3 is faulty. The connection to the Neutral Switch is particularly vulnerable to loosening and corrosion, and as Kiwi_Roy has taught us, the relay connections can loosen. Does your neutral light in the instrument cluster illuminate?

Heh - there was a little talk among the local Guzzisti about the routes and riding at the SSR. Someone had the impression that docc isn't "leading" a Saturday route and the comment was made, "Oh, he says that every year." Soooo, really, I'm not going to be riding much on Saturday; maybe to Tellico Plains for ice cream; up to the Cherohala to sit at an overlook and watch bikes ride by/ count Guzzis; go see a waterfall . . . I figure several small groups will form up and go explore the fabulous roads all around the area and come back with tales small and tall. Look at some maps, find interesting roads and come prepared to find your way around. Use this thread to talk up some of the riding and places and roads. As I said back in March (and this is different from all prior years): This year, a little nuance: the theme of the Slimey Crud Run, up in Wisconsin, seems a propos, especially for Saturday: "Show up. Plan your own route."

More that Relay 3 has nothing electrically to do with the sidestand switch. The Sidestand Switch allows the bike to run (passing current to the Run Switch) as long as the stand is up. the Sidestand Switch opens with the stand down and shuts the bike off. If the sidestand Switch is shorted (it's two wires connected), the bike will run regardless of stand position. Read: you can ride off with your sidestand down. It is the Neutral Switch on the gearbox that detects the bike is in neutral and safe to start with the sidestand down. It is the Neutral Switch that activates the middle Relay 3, essentially bypassing the sidestand switch to send current to the Run Switch. So, removing Relay 3 the bike will start and run as long as the sidestand is up regardless of what gear it is in. Realize the Clutch Switch interlock will require the clutch to be disengaged to turn the starter over, but if you release the clutch with the bike in gear, off she goes. A V11 with no Neutral Switch or Relay 3 will not sit on its sidetand and idle if the sidestand switch is functional. While Relay 3 might should be called the "Neutral Relay" it is not. It is the "Sidestand Relay" ostensibly to tell us why it is there, but not how it is energized.

(Camn makes such great observations and questions that I've moved the discussion of the sidestand relay to another thread as it is an aside to this thread about charging and reference voltage.) http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19478

Did you bleed the brake in the bracket or take it off and turn the nipple to the top? Also, did you clean the pistons and equalize their movement? Finally, there is a bedding procedure to transfer fresh brake pad resin evenly to the surface of the rotor.

Just to clarify , the "sidestand" interlock relay (middle #3 realy) is energized by the gearbox neutral switch. The sidestand switch bypasses all that. Probably makes no difference, but it is a common misconception due to the nomenclature.

Seems motowfo dealt with this on his Coppa, but I can't remember the solution . . . maybe he painted them both with something very similar? You might try pinging him from his profile.

I have been hoping not to have a learning experience with the Grimeca. Having tried to bleed my clutch with every rear tire (about every 4000-4500 miles for me), the clutch slave is holding its own on the cusp of 100,000 miles. Knock on glass! (EDIT: subtract about 27,000 miles as my gearbox was replaced in its entirety in an impressive warranty event.)

I had to count on my fingers three times . . . THREE MONTHS out ! !

The clutch master cylinder is 12mm. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14093&p=151243

Working on an answer.

What about removing the plastic cover over the rear pads? The space faces forward . . .

Impressive! My compliments to all involved. Of course: especially Scud and Pete. I mean, look, the original post in this thread is one month ago! Just amazing.

Right? 1800 feet in four miles! Even with a four piston caliper, the V11 rear is positioned low in the spray and "upside down." No matter what, it is probably desirable to remove it regularly (every tire change?) and turn the nipple to the top for bleeding, as well as taking time to move each-and-every piston in and out until they all move freely. As the original fitment caliper only has the two pistons, it is critical to make sure they stay moving freely and evenly. As has been said, the pads have very little contact area and the rear brake is minimal at best. Even staying after mine, they only last about 10,000 miles. Really interesting fitment, the four-pot to the rear!

+1

One nipple (left) is the overflow in the event the tank is overfilled fueling or water gets around the filler neck under the cap. It drains out a direct hose to the left, behind the starter motor and beside the gearbox to drain to the tarmac behind the engine (usually "zip-tied" to the braided oil return line to the back of the sump. On US spec V11, the other nipple (right) has a rubber seal from the cap to the tank (is it there?) and plumbs below the tank through a one-way valve (that can become less than vertical and fail, yielding "tank-suck" vent failure) to a pair of charcoal canisters that were placed in the tool tray under the seat which were then plumbed, separately, to vacuum taps from both intakes (are those plugged, capped, tubed together, or left open?), and two separate "drains" or "vents" to a cadmium plated bracket at the back of the gearbox bottom. Other than the vacuum lines, all of my hoses were US made 1/2" double walled fuel line . Twenty feet of it! (I kid you not. I measured it. ) The whole mess weighs five pounds. (No, seriously, I weighed it. ) I am seriously not putting it back on. Unless maybe Walter Peck shows up from the e-pee-a

No replies to get TN Jake back in the saddle? I hear he still need spark plug wire (probably NGK resistor cap), red valve cover (likely kinda rare), etc . . . Any ideas, guys?

That's good question. Anyone care to make a reply, please?

My MAXI blew after I took apart my positive connections and didn't re-tighten them after a ride or two. Main positive connection was a little loose and must have thrown some big spikes. Lesson learned. I was carrying a spare fuse, but couldn't see the blown fuse upon inspection on the roadside. I suppose I was careless or visually impaired, but decided to put in one of those LED "Smart_fuses" that light up when blown. I tried to figure out how they are wired to do that, but got dizzy and gave up.

No idea what you talking about Docc... The "vinyl" part or the "handsy" part?