docc

There are a lot of desirable features on @ScottMc's Ballabio besides the awesome wheels. Certainly the GPS speedometer, but also the carbon fiber front fender and rear hugger; Exhaust crossover and canisters. "Tail Tidy; original airbox retained. On top of a compelling asking price . . .

Say it ain't so!

I did just edit my post regarding the 100mm/4" suspension travel I based my sags on. Yet, I cannot find a reference for V11 suspension travel. Maybe I read it in a period magazine article. Does anyone see the stated travel reference in the Moto Guzzi literature? Edits: Motorcycle Consumer News, September 2001, lists the front and rear suspension at 4.72" and 3.75" ( I get 120mm/ 95mm from that). Cycle World, August 2002, states the "Claimed Wheel Travel" of the Sport Scura is 4.7 in. front/ 5.0 in. rear. While in October 2001 they said the 2002 LeMans was 4.7/4.9.

I am not sure what my rear suspension travel actually is with the Öhlins MG 127/ 46 HRCS with 1091/29-90 spring (90 N/mm). The shock stroke is stated as 70mm, but I am not sure the suspension travel would be "doubl-ish" that. Looking at my notes from 2007, my sags are set 25mm rear/ 32mm front. I do recall selecting the percentages based on 4"/100mm of suspension travel, but now cannot find a reference for suspension travel in any of the Moto Guzzi literature (Owner's Manual, Workshop Manual,or Sales Brochure). FWIW, my fork springs are Traxxion Dynamics 1.0 kg/mm, raised 5mm in the triple clamps), 120mm spacers. Fork oil selected by centiStokes (BelRay 5wt= 17.01 cSt). Just a reminder, this is a ShortFrame Sport with ~165 pound/ 75 kg rider wearing thirty pounds/ 14 kg of gear with some twenty-five pounds/ 11 kg of load out in the Tekno panniers. Riding like a jackrabbit on hot lava . . .

What are the last four digits in the serial number (month/year)? Your "0520" looks to translate May of 2020. In which case the battery is not even four years old. In that case I would be investigating the charging system, grounds, and external charging protocol . . .

What is the date code of your outgoing PC545?

Be aware of Odyssey's specific charging amperage (and voltage). Common low amp trickle chargers/"Battery Tenders" can be damaging. (Odyssey is unequivocal about this.) I have seen PC545 brought back from the deep discharge state with proper "conditioning" . . .

See if searching the new nomenclature gives better results/availability: https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/ods-agm15l-battery-pc545/

"MJ" is for metal jacket. If I recall correctly, same PC545, but with a metal jacket. I also recall the EnerSys Hawker Odyssey nomenclature changed. The V11 OEM battery has a new designation (but still manufactured) . . .

nope

Okay, I love this. They're blues. They're Dutch. The bassman is playing my Fender J-Bass. https://wildmenbluesband.nl/ On the cusp of the anniversary of this music thread (nine years!), what is not to love? Lead player's shirt depicts evolution from monkey to motorcycle . . .

So much fun to try and pic a favorite image . . .

Look at where the two bolts clamp the assembly to the bar and see if the clamp has been turned upside down with the mirror mount on the bottom...

Just make sure it has not gotten "sloppy." Check the pinch bolt on the shaft of the gear box, the lock nuts indexing the Heim/Rose joints, and wobble at the lever pivot. The lever pivot bolt may benefit from shimming (mine has a couple of times). There is an inboard lock nut that keeps that pivot bolt from turning. Look at the relative angles of the parallelogram and adjust as necessary to get as close to get the gearbox arm and the shift extension arm parallel. The lever has more apparent travel between certain gears, so check that it is not fouling anything above or the Frame Side Plate (below) in each gear change, up and down.

Well said. Thank you, Lucky_Phil . . .

I mean, how many times can we kick something with so may connections up and down over time before the "kinetic chain" needs attention . . . I have seen V11 with this series of fasteners just rattled apart, simply needing a good fettling, tightening, and lubrication . . .

Next, I would adjust and make tight the entire external shift mechanism. Best done with the starter off. Make sure the shift lever does not hit anything on the full up and down strokes in every gear. That is best done with the rear wheel suspended in order to rock the wheel a bit to get it into each gear.

Here is the thread where you posted this issue before, @LowRyter:

"A picture is worth a thousand words." Something about this says it all . . .

As spine frames go, the Dr. John version of the Daytona and SPOrT 1100 certainly brought an elegance to the otherwise clumsy origins. Whomever redesigned the "frame side plates" into the fabulously luscious stilettos of the Centauro, 1100 Sport-i and our V11 Sport/Le Mans variants really iced the cake, IMO . . .

Of course a busted, leaking fuel pump needs replacing . I would so still *tap* on that regulator to "free it up" with a wake up call . . . Once all hooked back up, maybe cycle the pump repeatedly to flush the return line back through the regulator into the tank. If the right side of the tank residual fuel has "gelled" maybe a tank flush?

An excerpt from Matt Compton's mgprotos.com: (also written by Alan Cathcart) . . . https://mgprotos.com/dr-john-rides-again