docc

Now, there's something that goes with smoke. "Being shot out of a canon will always beat being squeezed out of a tube." HST

Or is that something your V11 did to you?

The early seats often put pressure on the battery (even solo). Check that the terminal stacks are good & tight. Look also that the relays and fuses are seated well. It is possible that a passenger could be jostling the relays if they are not in good contact. Look at the thread on Odyssey PC545 Battery conditioning. With careful method and the right charger, you could likely recover that battery. Inspect the 30 amp regulator fuse for signs of overheating and record the voltage series (1-after no activity for 24 hours, 2- key on for two-three minutes, 3 - cranking, 4 - idle, 5 - at rpm/ maybe 2000+

That works so much better than my attempt. So, one "bulb" and two side arrays? What does that look like with the lens off? (I'm gonna be owing ya a beer, now, mate!)

I tried an early made 1157 type LED in my tail light, but it didn't even look like it was on from the side, dim from an angle (only bright straight on). How doea one look from the side, does it illuminate the red lens?

After a second discharge/charge cycle (one week) on the EnerSys AGM charger, I started and ran this machine with my 5 1/2 year old PC545. After sitting nineteen (19) days, it reads an impressive 12.75v (98%). I was just not getting these results with any of my conventional chargers. I'm convinced!

Oh, wait: discharge first, then your high-zoot AGM charger will take care of the rest. Otherwise (without a dedicated AGM charger), discharge first then apply 6 or more amps until 15v (14.6v for a conventional flooded battery), then float the AGM at 13.5-138v. The thing about the high-zoot AGM chargers is that they are temperature corrected, controlling the amperage and voltage at correct levels through the charge and float phases. SOoooo much easier to use on the AGM. The only requisite is to do the discharge first. Beginning this thread, I had hoped to learn how to use my collection of conventional battery chargers to maintain the AGM. I learned that, yeah, they'll do it, and give amazing service life from the battery, but the AGM may not be at better than 85% at best. I'm banking that my Sport's regulator and stator will thank me!

Also note that AGM batteries have a different SOC scale. Some of your other batteries may be conventional wet cell, or "flooded," and are 100% at 12.65v @ 77ºF/25ºC (temperature affects voltage significantly - download a good table for reference). An AGM at 12.65 is about 85% and should be charged. That PC680 might respond to the method of restoring a deeply discharged AGM posted above that begins with the method gstallons referenced using a known good battery to jumper together until they equalize. Then again, it could be toast.

Voltage is the easiest (only?) way to check state of charge (SOC) on a sealed battery. But: it really takes a series of voltage readings to check the battery's "health." Again, a PC545 AGM that is below 12.65 vDC is input under 6 amps. Best method: record the voltage after no input to the battery for at least 6 hours, discharge (lights on for two or three minutes) and note the voltage. Apply a minimum of 6 amps until the voltage reaches 14.7v (not to exceed15v) and terminate that charge. "Float" or "trickle" a lower amperage (~2.0amps) at 13.5-13.8volts. (Typical chargers float at ~13.10 and will not fully charge [and WILL DAMAGE] your AGM). Hey, I've nursed some of these AGM for nine or ten years never really getting them much above 82%. But, the difference using discharge first and higher amperage initially before correct voltage float is remarkable.

Interesting question . . . I can't find a photo of this Dr. John LeMans from the left side anywhere . . .

Ouch: also, I noticed you started with 2 amps. Odyssey is ADAMANT that the PC545 will NOT charge on less than 6 amps. Meaning, if the PC545 AGM is below 12.65v it will absolutely require a minimum of 6 amps to charge. Do not exceed 15vDC.

One thing I've learned without fail is to first discharge before expecting a battery to do anything (start or charge). Especially if a known low battery goes to full charge very quickly, you must get deeper into the plates and saturate the electrolyte. This can be as simple as recording the OCV (open current voltage or "static" voltage) then connecting a light bulb and letting it burn a few minutes while the voltage stabilizes (record that voltage). Then charge. The last 20% to a full state of charge could certainly take days. Terminate the charge and wait 24 hours to record the OCV. Disharge for a few minutes and record the discharged voltage. (If your charge was effective it will be higher than the last time.) Wait a few minutes while the battery recovers on its own and note the voltage. If it is below 12.65 vDC, repeat the charge procedure. My experience is that the discharge/charge cycle repeated yields amazing results. Always Discharge First!!

Anyone with the chutzpah to show up in armored underwear can ride anything he likes . . . . . . what a guy.

Right? I remember having my canisters off and taking the beast for a blast with just the under-muffler . An intense, flame-throwing blast! Sure the valves probably wouldn't last like that, but it was intense!

Now you're in the neighborhood: Mississippi brewing!

i remember well Chamberlin's naked Norge, but this is taking things a bit far . . . Thanks for the YouTube link - that is some masterful documentary that is such a delight. Thanks, George!

Having not gotten to ride much the last few months, the Sport surprised me the other day on a little spirited jaunt through the hills (I was thinking of the SoCal guys and their amazing climbs just off the coast . . . ) I had, frankly, forgotten about the airbox bellmouth modification, but the lovely tone and acoustic sonority immediately reminded me! It occurred to me that this primary *glass mandrel* provided the elusive answer to the desire to change the stock airbox . . . The stock airbox is obviously just too yang and needs a good dose of yin for proper balance in the universe. And I thought it was all about science and Bernouli and such . . . That it comes form "Evil Twin" makes it ever-so-much-more right!

The vent and overflow can be routed into the same drain, but probably best to take that to atmosphere somewhere below the engine. Factory routing was between the starter and gearbox, then zip-tied to the oil return elbow on the back of the sump. I've seen more dubious airbox mods . . . . including my own. (Which I absolutely love )

Perfect! Nothing like a valve adjustment/fresh plugs and a synch!

It's so great to be sharing you experience! Thanks for continuing the thread! Since the TPS setting and the Throttle Body synchronization are separate settings, I'm curious what you are using for the synch (Hg sticks, manometer, "TwinMax")? Plan on the cables to use "guzzidiag" and set your CO Fuel Trim.

Yeah, there should be a tiny bulb in the bucket with your H4. Tail light, tag light, city light, and instrument lights are all on that circuit (fuse 6 directly from the ignition switch/ no relay). I don't think I've ever seen a bad ground blow a fuse. Blow bulbs or melt wiring, sure, but blow a fuse?

It occurred to me that the 4 watt "city light" in the headlamp bucket could have been affected by your LED installation, either crowding it somehow or impinging its wiring? That could also blow Fuse 6.

Wiring to the tail light is known to get pinched in the fender panels along the rear subframe. Also, the contacts inside the light fixture itself can get weak and bent - usually that just means no (or intermittent) contact, but they're worth looking at. I've see a bad bulb filament blow a fuse, but that's not as likely for you as the pinched wire. Or a frayed wire in the ignition switch.

As I recall, Pete's last post on this was that he no longer making them: "So unless people would like to club together and put in a bulk, (Over ten.) order for plates from me I'm afraid I'm done with them. Sorry." http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19211&p=206687

Oh, yes! That . . . I have a name for that, but it involves multiples of *sailor language* . . . Horrible little grommet. And do not neglect to groom the side stand switch wire well away from the exhaust and other harm. It is what the Run Switch lives on while we are under way . . .