docc

That is some impressive archiving! How many does that make in all?

You can locate the TPS and its two Torx fasteners on the top of the right throttle body? With your breakout harness installed, and ALL of the right side linkage and right side idle stop screw, and fast idle linkage released, you can loosen and very carefully rotate the TPS watching the millivoltage. I use a tiny hammer or the T-handle of a hex drive wrench to bump the TPS. As you tighten it, the reading changes, so you'll have to fuss about with it until it settles at the 150mV. Reattach everything and set the idle using the left throttle stop screw (either looking at TPS voltage (.525mV +) or use guzzidiag in degrees opening (3.6º as I recall). This is just a portion of the total tune-up, does this help?

Ah, I understand. I looked through the tutorial on TPS setting and Throttle Body Balance in "How To . . .", but there are no photos. Have you looked at that thread? EDIT: In fact, I just looked through the Breakout Harness thread and there are no photos there either. No doubt, i think it's high time for a fresh Tune-Up thread, incorporating the breakout harness and guzzidiag. It's on my To-Do list, really it is!

AFAIK, guzzidiag doesn't read the synchronization. Synching might elevate the idle slightly, but otherwise all of the specs should be set first: Plugs, Valves, TPS baseline, idle degrees open, and CO. (Only those last two are guzzidiag functions)

No, TB synch is not done through guzzidiag. Separate procedure using the vacuum taps on the intakes and the "white knob" on the throttle linkage rod with some mind to the air bleed screws. Synchronization is the last step in the tune-up with the motor at operating temperature.

Really simple with the breakout harness to baseline the TPS making sure the throttle plate is entirely closed. Then set the idle position of the TPS with guzzidiag and zero the CO trim. With fresh plugs and a valve adjustment, you're down to the throttle body synchronization, which works magic on Vtwin.

Is it the TPS you're trying to adjust? Or the "tune-up" in its entirety?

Sorry, Zooter, we got off topic there. Do you have a link to the post you are looking at?

How would that look? As in, how would we measure that overcharging effect?

So docc, just confirming the Omron Z2247-ND is the relay for the V11,is that the case? If so why do you recommend these, any particular reason? Ciao That's very courteous of you to ask. The actual OMRON (Sylvania?) part number is : G8HN-1C2T-R DC12 I don't believe this one is "sealed", but you can seal them running a bead of epoxy around the junction of the case and the base. I seem to recall that the sealed unit is no longer available. I've run the original Siemans, upgraded Siemans, Bosch, GEI, and OMRON in my Sport. I've never had relay failure, but have serviced several on the road in other V11. I've never run Tycos, and would advise anyone to change them to something else. The Bosch and GEI are good relays. Yet, I was compelled by the work Ryland3210 did on examining these relays: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=133211 Let's all realize, even with the best relays, if your V11 is stored with the relay contacts open, they may corrode. Storage in damp, salty, or subfreezing environs may aggravate the contact corrosion. Sealed OMRON are just the best available application. Some of the others are *bad* and some are *ok* - but the OMRON appear to be the very best. And for so little money, why not secure this known fail point on the V11?

You ought to able to look into the fuse block and see if the #8 has a connector inboard?

He might be the only in this mix without a Guzzi V11. Youth + Hg = Later-on + V11

My ECS delivery took like six weeks. And that from the US west coast to the central US (adds maybe three days once the driver has his load-out) Made me think there is only one dude staying up all night in Malaysia soldering these things up, after getting that proprietary chip out of Scotland.

Hold the phone! RedLine makes a motoroil suitable for the V11?

And there is an inboard connector at Fuse 8? If so, I would hope that wire goes to the unused 2pin AMP connector formerly used for the Electric Petcock. Now, Zooptie, you and The Royster look to be getting along all Kiwi-like.

Outboard is hot.

Zoopter , One side of the fuse connections ought to be hot, the other open. Ignition on, Run Switch on. (It seems to me, if Guzzi had changed the entire wiring harness when they deleted the electric petcock in 2002, there would be no connections at all in the last position (#8) in the fuse block. ?? )

The Z-plot thickens: I figured the Red/Black would simply show full voltage to the ignition/fuel injection components from Fuse2/Relay 5 with Ignition on/ Run Switch on . . . I switch on and the voltage runs up while the pump primes, then falls off to 8.8 mV. Why wouldn't it just stay at full voltage? Maybe it would if the bike were running and not static? I'm afraid to hook anything to the Blue/Black since that goes into the ECU pin 15 and I don't want to end up like Tron.

I have those same connectors-to-nowhere in my factory harness. Red/Black and Blue/Black wires. (not the Black/Violet and Violet of the TPS) No idea what they might be remnants of, but they have never been hooked to anything on my Sport since new . . . EDIT: Alright, the Red/Black is the power feed to the coils/ injectors /fuel pump from Relay 5 via Fuse 2. The Blue/Black comes from (or goes to) the ECU, pin 15. What would it have been for? Certainly not TPS.

:thumbsup:

Yes:3 drive shaft Zerks; yes:PITA; yes:special fittings;yes:other places need grease (all of the "sealed" bearings (9?), and the outside/RH needle cage for the rear bevel drive), but no other Zerks that I recall. Good that you're working through these, though! Your V11 will love you (back) for it!

$33.35 Shipped. that's really good buying. Costs more than that from ECS just for the one obd2 cable. Truly. When it arrives, please confirm that it is compatible. Very frustrating to have tried a cable that wasn't.

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=youtube+samantha+fish&FORM=VIRE3#view=detail&mid=6BCD66B6515C20A418EA6BCD66B6515C20A418EA

The wiring harness must have a different part number from the early V11?

Hg is foolish if you ask me. My high school chemistry teachers were extremely concerned with keeping it in the bottle. If it gets on the floor it's impossible to get rid of it and you have vapour coming off forever more. If you accidentally suck in a bit of 2T oil I don't believe it will wreck anything. Would be interested to know what exactly occurs when that happens. Sucking Hg would be an environmental disaster at least. Agreed. If I had to do over I would use the TwinMax or equivalent. Motowfo and I tested them (Hg and TwinMax) back to back and verified the TwinMax is reliable.