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docc

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Everything posted by docc

  1. The 90˚ angle on the 1117590 is apparently to fit to the throttle control side once the control assembly is retapped . It's just wrong. The 1117560 cable from the 2002 LeMans fits perfectly with no modifications.
  2. No one seems to know - which is disconcerting since we are the world's foremost experts on the V11 Guzzi! I'm planning a campaign with MG NA to get the cable number corrected. I can't imagine they had a completely new cable produced to replace the early V11 cable, especially considering the throttle control has to be modified to install it, where the 2002 LeMans cable just fits right in.
  3. Right? But the "replacement" throttle cable for the early Sport (1999-2001) redirects to the 1117590 with the bent tube connection that won't fit the early Sports. But what does the 1117590 actually fit? I have one you can have if you can use it! Is it the same as a -580 or an -880? No one seems to know . . .
  4. Quiz at 2 . . .
  5. Right ? What about Carcano's 3 cyl diesel?
  6. Back to Scud's post: lot's of nice V11 for decent prices right now!
  7. I thought the same thing when a neighbor invited me to the "tractor pull." I thought, "Oh yeah, whatever." Reminded me of the drags! One guy had FOUR Dodge Hemis chained through to drive his unlimited rig. It was intense (just like Top Fuel drags)! We sat about 3/4 of the way down the pull. As it turns out, that's where things blow apart! Like big 671 GMC supercharger flying up in the air! Ya'll come, now! Ya hear?
  8. Well, Sawszall modifications may not be pretty, but they are quick Right?
  9. It occurs to that emptying the contents of the glass mandrels involved a bit of Bernoulli's Principle as well . . . Once things become horizontal, all bets are off!
  10. GU01117530?
  11. docc

    Go_Winkie!

    I think I've found a perfect spot for this indicator. (pictures later). So, diagnostically: If the light is lit, the current is making it through all the choke points (ignition switch, run switch, relays #1 and #2) and the sidestand switch (stand up/in gear) and neutral switch/ relay #3 (stand down/in neutral)? If the bike sputters underway, and the light flickers: the trouble is *one of the above*? If the light is on and the bike won't run, it is one the back two relays, the ECU, coils, or fuel pump/injectors?
  12. Really? I can't find it there. Only MGCycle has the disclaimer that redirects to the 2002 V11 LeMans cable 1117560. Later V11 apparently also have a "return" cable. I can't find anything the *replacement* 1117590 is supposed to fit. Is there anyone, anywhere that has 1999-2001 V11 with a 90˚ angled steel tube leaving the throttle control?
  13. Ok, so, you said that, not me . . . "Early Scura": 2002 "Late Scura" : 2005 Scura R (all known examples have had 2004 VIN) - perhaps the most rare V11?
  14. I am anxious to hear how mixing vermouth and carpentry sheds more light on Bernoulli's Principle!
  15. On closer inspection, and extended consideration, I'm concerned that resting my fuel line (and, therefor, the tank weight itself) on the cable housing deforms it enough to cause alignment problems which might shorten the cable life. Going back together, I'm planning on grooming the fuel line completely off of the cable housing and its bracket.
  16. I certainly have made these inlet tracts "smoother" and more "polished," but likely didn't open them enough to make a maximal difference. This weekend's ride should reveal any impressions.
  17. I'm trying to remember the V11s with single plate clutch/aluminum flywheel: early Scura, Tenni, and also the Rosso Mandello?
  18. You know, it's pretty common to see pictures of Guzzis with hammers in the background, but "Heavy Duty Sawszall?" That oughta do it!
  19. OMG , the old ones wear out?
  20. docc

    Go_Winkie!

    Right? On the early tanks, the notch is quite deep and the light could be sistered to the frame's crankcase vent; even using the bolt head to "back" the bulb . . . Good call! I'm liking this plan. 150 count of various LEDs should be here in time to stay up late working on the bike the night before a trip!
  21. docc

    Go_Winkie!

    Yeah, roger that. I was hoping not to cross the headstock with more wiring. I was thinking that if I were trying to trouble shoot, the bike would already be on the sidestand and the seat off . . . I forgot about the *intermittent fault* indicator.
  22. docc

    List

    How can we get this into a searchable part of the forums? This is such great information!
  23. I've always thought it such a good idea of Kiwi_Roy's to add an indicator light to Fuse 8 to show that power has made it through the Ignition Switch and the Run Switch. So, I've fished out the connector to my original electric petcock and clipped the connector off the petcock itself to make ready for a green LED to tell me "systems are go." But I have some questions about the whole affair: Why couldn't we just poke an LED into the fuse block in place of the fuse? Without the connector fastened to something would the LED light?
  24. "Therein lies the rub." I think they're just gonna feel better, all smooth and polished and bell-mouthy . . . Although, the right was palpably more restricted than the left. I wonder if the intake balance may have changed? Or the idle speed nips up a bit? Otherwise, it's all largely a subjective exercise. I've always been a sucker for "velocity stacks!"
  25. To be honest, I found the inlets to be a definite choke point. The more I worked with them, the more I realized how much they pinch down as the air goes in and how irregular the first 3"/75mm. If the inlet started at 39mm, it must have pinched down to 35mm inside necessitating a lot of prying and shaping with glass mandrel #1 (EvilTwinBrewing YIN Imperial Taiji Stout) with final shaping and polishing with mandrel #2 (Austria's Hofstetten Granitbock). While mandrel #3 (Oregon's RogueXS Bitter Ale) had the specified overall diameter, I just could not take it out that far; ran out of time, steam, and gumption. And beer. The plastic of the air box is very stout (heh - pun ; / ) and took quite a lot of careful heating and shaping to rework.
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