docc

Sounds good! Trailers hardly ever come back empty from Barber . . .

Correct, the left is the drain; for unwanted water around the filler, yes, but also any fuel spill from refueling. I would think this especially warrants routing to below the (hot) engine and exhaust. Interesting that the non-US spec bikes simply have an open nipple on the right (confirmation from our world community?). I entirely forgot about the charcoal canisters being the destination for that routing after the one-way valve. This makes me consider opening the right nipple and stop fussing with Y-ing it into the drain. So, very likely, rossi46's UK Guzzi simply has an open nipple? Makes sense: no charcoal fuel evaporation recovery debacle. For spray solvent, I prefer CRC Electronics Cleaner. Not so caustic as throttle body, carb, or (especially) brake cleaner - evaps quickly and cleanly and is kind(er) to painted surfaces. I just wonder if the exposed vent nipple may be more susceptible to clogging under the tank than if it has a bit of hose pushed on it?

Both the nipples facing down and forward under the tank had no hoses on them? Originally they would have had ~1/4" lines routed to the left behind the starter. Make sure the internal drain and vent from under the cap are clear through the nipples; compressed air would likely work, although a spray solvent might be necessary if they've clogged.

"the domed rubber piece that is on the rear of the filler cap" Yeah, that's it. Breaks the seal between the tank and the vent. I wouldn't call it a permanent solution; more of a "field expedient." That tract leads to a nipple under the tank (the other is for the fuel overflow, also visible under the filler cap). Factory stock, these two tank nipples drop separate vent hoses to below and behind the sump, the tank vent through a small plastic disc valve about an inch in diameter. They are prone to failure as is the tubing prone to clogging. Part of the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist . . . . ">As the tank goes back on, re-secure the tank vent and overflow on the underside of the tank. This is fiddly and the connections may benefit from using small wire clamps that will still allow a press fit. There have been many modifications reported on this routing, but simply be certain your tank vent and overflow route below the engine and exhaust not onto them, even if they are co-joined into one drain tube. The factory fitting has a one way valve (small plastic disc) that can become disoriented or obstructed and allow a vacuum to build in the tank. Make sure the valve is oriented for vertical flow and secured. If your tank has suction when you open the filler cap, the venting needs to be addressed. One quick-fix is to open the cap and remove the small rubber seal on the right rear of the cap. I'm not saying it's a good idea, but it has been used as a quick fix."

Watch the paddock for Bob's MGS-01 and we'll be at Ace Corner Saturday afternoon. Planning on hitting the museum Sunday morning. you can text my cell once we're there!

What year is your V11? (consider adding that to your profile) The early 1999-2002 tanks with chin pad and external filter have a vent with a one way valve under the tank. The valve can become disoriented or the lines clogged. (easy fix). Some remove the valve altogether. Quick fix is to remove the small rubber washer/seal visible when the filler cap is open. Either of the last two methods may allow fuel to spill if the bike becomes horizontal. I'm not sure if the later, pump-inside, tanks still have the same venting system?

guzzidiag link is in this thread You'll need three cables. 1) FIAT-Lancia adapter cable (Andoer 3 pin > OBD II); 2) FTDI chipped OBD II > USB; 3) Caspers TPS breakout harness The rest is easy(ish)!

I've wanted to do-up a round-fin Guzzi/Morgan forever. The perfect gentleman's kit.

You first!

Good eye! I couldn't find anything on it that isn't knackered .

Managed to take in Steve'n'Seagulls as they performed in Nashville last week. What great fun! They carried off a really high energy, up-tempo show. No question , they looked to be having the time of their lives on stage! Thanks, Jaap, for the post!

Yup - just around the corner from me. OK, maybe 100 corners, because I know some very twisty roads between my house and Wildomar. I didn't notice that it was an automatic. You never read about anyone having any trouble at all with the automatic trannies on the V11. They must be very reliable. Your next breaker bike? I'd like to sign on for the clutch and flywheel!

Just two weeks away, October 9-11, this is always a great event. This year, look for the MGS-01 Bob will be campaigning! Sumptuous!

1800. for a 2 plate clutch and a few other bits? where is this? Looks like SoCAl just north of SanDiego. Don't get your hopes up on the clutch parts . . . ad says "transmission: automatic"

First, the factory grounding location is to the gearbox inboard of the seat latch release, but not bolted under the seat release. If found under the seat latch itself, it should be moved to the gearbox. Also, sounds like your beauty would benefit from a complete tune up. Start with valve adjustment and fresh plugs. Download guzzidiag and get the three cables you need to set the TPS and interface with the ECU. This will allow you to zero the CO fuel trim and set the idle opening of the throttle. You'll need a way to balance the throttle bodies (Hg sticks/manometer/ "TwinMax" etc.). Clean your air bypass screws and turn them out a full turn. Defaulting your idle speed to the high side generally makes the lumpy cam happier at idle.

I was more embarrassed than injured/ and the folks in the BMW were very kind and understanding. It was a (known to the locals) awful decreasing radius, uphill, off-camber corner with no visibility. I can understanding passing on the commitment to refit a damaged bike. It was Pete Roper who said (astutely, as usual), "The V11 doesn't crash well." I put in about four months refitting my crash with parts coming from all over the world including a swingarm from Germany that Paul Minneart was instrumental in helping me get to the US. As it was, Guzzi owed me a complete gearbox (just prior to the early gearbox recall) which saved the project from ruin (no way I could spring $3800 on just that part). Members of this forum were immensely generous helping me with all the other parts and I kept very busy in the shop. Glad to have her, still! Best fortunes in hunting down your next Guzzi!

What's the damage that totalled the bike? (My Sport lowsided into the font of a BMW sedan at relatively low speed. The cracked gearbox was a $3800 part alone.)

I had thought the Stelvio would appear to dwarf the others, but not so! Does she ride like a big, heavy thing?

Sad, man . . . Hope you are well otherwise. Don't wander off entirely! There are lots of nice V11 looking for a good home . . .

Yes, indeed: Odyssey PC545 Battery conditioning

Pete, what year-model did the 8V become well sorted?

Here's one of the "ram air" threads from Days of Olde ( Sep 25 2003): http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1340&hl=+air%20+intake%20+bell And I (finally) found (again) the post by Phil A/19 Sept 2006 (in Paper Filters & Airbox Lid Mod/ Sep 18 2006/ How to . . . /OP: Greg Field) detailing findings about modifying the airbox intake (albeit on a V10 with the same airbox as a V11). Looks to me as the data are dyno generated: ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Posted 19 September 2006 - 01:19 AM by Phil A Greg,can see there is a few here interested in this so I dug out some data gathered while developing the V10 inlets. Dont shoot me please the box is the same as the V11 The facts as I have them are these: All of these steps are independent of each other. If your remove the origional mufflers(snorkels) off the inlet and bell mouth the inlets to approx 35mm id you get approx 2hp between 4500 and8000rpm. If you remove the filter but leave the lid in place, you get approx 1.7hp. If you drill 3 one inch holes in the top rear of the air box lid (one in each corner an one 2'' forward in the center) and retain the air cleaner element you get approx 1.5 hp. If you remove the lid and leave the filter in place you get approx 3.5hp from 4300-5500rpm it increases steadily to approx 7hp at 6300 then tapers of to approx2 at 8000 or so. Once you totally remove the air box but retain the std bell mouths on the injector bodies the gains above 6300 do not taper off as above with the gain being approx 5hp at 8000 or so. Probably the most noticeable gain with this last set up is 4 or 5hp in the middle of the dip at 4000- 4800rpm. If you increase the bell-mouth id to approx 50mm and retain the holes in the rear you get 4.5hp all up. Once I had remapped the MY16M to match I have exactly the same power with the airbox (with origional filter) as with no airbox what so ever! A total gain of approx 7hp while running the stock filter. Probably the best gain was 9ft/lb at 2700rpm! with a 5ft/lb gain at 4300rpm. Hope this is of interest. Phil A. V10 sport. "All is not always as it seems" Phil A - Sep 19 2006

This is totally bad-ass:

I've been telling the wife for several years that the old chest freezer needs to go. This is the last straw! Thanks for sharing and know that our hearts are with you!