docc

Almost 2,000 miles on and the cable is showing definite signs of unraveling. Before I head to Barber Vintage Festival in a few weeks, I suppose I'm destined for the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist! (and the new throttle cable . . .)

I wish I could learn to be that concise!

Finding a dealer that will fine tune your V11 is rather unlikely. You can do this! >Before you take the sideplate off the gearbox, inspect the foot lever assembly: make sure it does not hit the frame sideplate ("porkchop") in the downstroke; remove the lever and clean, shim, and lubricate all the pivot points. >Change the gearbox oil and rear drive oil. Many have found RedLine Shockproof to be near magical for shift quality (I prefer the "lightweight") >Bleed the clutch fluid. Check out these maintenance checklists in FAQ: Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist Tank Off Maintenance Checklist For run quality, see the tune-up procedure (that, admittedly, could use some updating): TPS Setup and Throttle Body Balancing That ought to keep you busy through the winter! Seriously, that's a lot of info, so don't get overwhelmed. Just work through it a bit at a time and you'll have a finely fettled V11!

Over the years, most have found the pods to be very sexy and interesting, but not as good for the day-to-day running. If she's a looker, pods are ok, but if you expect the best performance, the factory airbox is well designed. Also, the consensus has been: ditch the rubber turn-down snorkels. There is some good data on expanding the air inlets further . . .

Gulf Gran Prix colors? I'm hooked!

What would be the advantage to the cruiser-style dipped seat? It seems awkward . . .

I had that same trouble. The chip set must be FTDI.

That's a beautiful photo! Yet, it rather over-represents the visibility at 5,000 feet! Fabulous time and great roads! In brief: 20 riders on 19 bikes from 5 states. Eight Moto Guzzi ( five Spines), 2 KTM, 3 BMW, a stunning Ducati, equally stunning Aprilia (JRD!), 2 Triumphs, a Kawi with cf wheels, and a Honda. Three of the four Spine Raiders from the inaugural event in 2004 were present with two of the original bikes showing over 200,000 miles (Perfesser York's LeMans leading the world at some 114,000 on the original Veglia!)

I have simply got to take something off my Sport in the next couple days . . . maybe the Boeing valve stem caps . . . The frontal boundary, courtesy of our western brethren, is inching through middle Tennessee now and hopefully will pick up speed and be whisked into the Atlantic drawn by the low pressure that was Erika.

BTW: The FarmHouseInn in Tellico Plains

I just laid in Garmin (.gpx) routes to and from Tellico Plains from middle Tennessee bypassing every possible little town (a personal aversion) and the Loop to Lunch via the butt of the dragon (I never said that! ) to The Sunset in Franklin, NC, and the Cherohala *both* directions: into the sun and: into the sun ; / pm me if you would like me to email you the .gpx (Garmin) files . . .

I don't mind the fast moving cold fronts ("clippers") as long as we're not sailing within them, it's the stationary fronts that are troubling - Team Pressure Drop I haven't talked with Walt about meals, but in recent visits, Anna has worked up a fine breakfast for us on both Saturday and Sunday (a major draw, if you ask me), but we're on our own for supper. Does The Farmhouse serve an evening meal?

I recently replaced some relays in a friend's Rosso Corsa and squeezed the outgoing relay enough upon removal to blow the fuse in that circuit. New fuse (new relay): no problem. The MAXI fuse is a solution for the 30 amp "regulator" fuse. A blown starter fuse could suggest bad connections at the starter (or starter solenoid), or even the loose starter motor magnets known to afflict the Valeo starter. Simpler yet: cleaning and inspecting the ignition switch if you have not done so already . . .

Looks as if the good lads from BC and up Seattle way have whipped up a nice high pressure dome to send our way. The high here in the basin should give way from the awful mid-90s ˚F to upper 70s, and in the mountains: cooler yet! Now if it will just get its nasty bit out of the way before we head out!

Yes, that is how semi-dry sump (separate oil tank) systems have to be checked. And, yes, it's a PITA.

This could portend some influence on this year's Tech Session! Next year, when czakky finally makes it, we're doing "The Vast and Various Uses of Chianti Corks on the V11 Chassis and Driveline."

By "mostly horizontal" you don't mean lying on its side?

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6415&p=206416

Looks like eight of us (four or five Guzzis, one or two Austrians, and The Fabulous Froth Freighter ) are leaving lower middle Tennessee about 9am, eastbound, on Friday morning September eleven. All (familiar) backroads including some fine little climbs up and down the Cumberland Plateau. PM me or post if you would like to join us (about 200 miles). Planning on arriving at The Lodge by three or four local time (we are leaving from Central Time).

I seem to recall the flow to the cooler is thermostatically controlled. There would not be much flow through the cooler until the motor heats to a set point.

For sure, I've always been in the "30-50 psi" camp. Low pressure at idle could simply mean the idle is too low (common).

We haven't discussed the gearbox input splines much here, but the (similar) BMW clutch discs are known to drag along the dry splines causing similar issues.

I can't speak highly enough of using a full compliment of OMRON relays (and carrying extras for your buddy's dead V11 ) I looked at Dave's description of that procedure in Guzziology, Version 8.2, and basically he's saying to try and flick the "run/kill" switch on last after the ignition is on, clutch pulled in, starter button already engaged. Not sure why it would make any difference unless there is an underlying issue (like a dirty Run Switch). Be certain you have the highest quality relays installed and their connections are tight, the battery terminals are tight, that the Ignition Switch itself has been disassembled and cleaned, and the clutch switch "bullet" connectors on the forward left side of the frame under the tank are clean, crimped and sealed.