docc

No, no, no - it's a buddy's bike that needed some luvin' Made it MUCH better, but still need to "fine tune." (Trying to figure out this "guzzidiag" thing. )

Just took the Rosso Corsa off the lift. The fellow's had it a couple years and it was right ready for a good going through. Guzzidiag is such an excellent tool to get base lines, zeroed the CO (his was minus 31 !) and set the TPS all the while watching the engine temp and the air temp get closer. Once "cooled down", the valves were I/E: .007/.004 right and .011/.010 left. It was idling at 900 rpm with a throttle opening of 2.66˚. I fooled with it about four hours in all including a very careful oil and filter change, throttle body balance, and fitting the missing cap on the left vacuum tap. All in all, I do believe the good fellow is going to have a very fine ride home!

The V11 series is 1999-2004/5. ("first generation" 6 speed) I would not think any gearbox parts from later years would be correct.

Wait . . . why? Because an Aluminium head expands more than steel plug so removing will be aided. The opposite for installation.Its highly desireable to avoid installation and torquing on a hot head but if you have no choice then install the plug and let it sit for 5 min or so to absorb some heat before torquing. All falls under the umbrella of " good engineering practice" Ciao Thanks for that! Makes sense. In an engineering practice sort of way . . . (I edited the "best answer" post)

+ 5 hours from shutdown, engine temp 27˚C/ air temp 25˚C; valves have stayed 0.006/0.008. Other than the hot (90˚C) valves being unexpectedly looser, and the intake looser than the exhaust, there are a couple other observations: 1) With the fans on the motor, it cooled almost 90% in 40 minutes and the valves returned to their "stone cold" setting. So, I would conclude that the motor simply needs to "cool down" for valve adjustment, but doesn't need to be "stone cold" or sit overnight; not even for hours. Notably, the valve cover was removed during the cool-down. 2) It's OK to remove the spark plugs from a hot engine. But best to replace them when cold. 3) guzzidiag is a wonderful tool for monitoring actual engine temperature/ air temperature.

I was thinking they may have a local resource. There was a kennel just outside of town, but she's been closed a couple years.

Oh, man, that's cold. While you were riding the TIOGA PASS, I was trying not to say anything about my little foray up Hogjaw Valley . . . Dude! That's my favorite part!

First off, what's the chance of warming the bike up (18 miles riding) to 90˚C (guzzidiag), putting it on the lift and finding the right cylinder at TDC? Here's what I found: intake had loosened 0.002" (to 0.008") and the exhaust had loosened just less than 0.001" (to 0.009ish"). Not what I expected. I'll watch it over the next couple hours as it cools down and see what happens. edit: 40 minutes in my 20˚C/70˚F garage with two fans on the motor and guzzidiag reads 34˚C, valves measure 0.006/0.008. That's a much quicker "recovery" than I expected also. I'll have to check it again later and make sure they don;t keep tightening up as she cools to 20˚C.

@g: you're talking these people, right? (I get the "Keyboard Carriage" part now!)

So, just for general reference, they charge by the mile, by weight, flat rate . . .?

You should still have the last slot in the fuse box to test from . . .

Good point.

Wait . . . why?

That's easy to check with a series of voltage readings (key off; start; idle; "some" rpm) But I don't think the regulator would shut your bike down. Ignition switch, side stand switch, run switch, relays . . . No doubt, you have the most miles/km on any V11 in the world.

Right? I definitely do not want the threads coming out with the plug!

When your V11 goes from needing a volt meter to a fire extinguisher - you need new friends!

I just did mine up after it sat five or six hours. I suppose I could get it up to temp and recheck them for comparison. Unless someone here just already knows . . .

I know a guy that makes house calls. "Have DVOM - Will Travel"

There's nothing like getting passed by two or three V11 at full chat with their pipes pointed right at you! *BTW, while the "TT" custom is a late frame (long frame) V11, the "carbon bike" is an earlier spine (narrow sump Sport 1100 with 5speeder/cable clutch).

Soooo, having drunk the Kool-Aid (over-and-over), I know that the valves are to be adjusted "stone cold." But, I'm helping out a forum member with a tune-up and there's no opportunity to let the V11 sit that long. I always like to start the tune with a valve adjustment and fresh plugs (which I also like removing from a cold head). Question is, what to expect checking hot valves? Looser when hot? Tighter? By how much?A couple thousandths? More? How long does it take for the motor to cool down enough to be "stone cold?" Hours? Overnight?

Wait,wait,wait a minute here . . . czakky can leave his foxy Lemans Café here with me in Tennessee and it will be closer to the great mountain riding he so loves. What are GREAT friends for, right?

Amen to that. I wish one of you bright, resourceful lads would come up with a simple solution for this. It really bites to "run out" of fuel with 8/10 of a gallon trapped on board.

Talk to Walt - he's a dog-guy (or is it that "Rambo" is a guy-dog?) There may be some local support . . .

The #112 O-ring is so often played up, and so cheap and easy.

Since the exhaust would have to come off to drain the oil, maybe there's no oil in it - saves over twenty pounds right there! I do like the Manx theme.